GTSBoy

Yeah, that doesn't necessarily mean that it flows. If the exit side pipework is blocked somewhere (in the hose, in the nipple that it returns into the motor/plumbing, etc), but the supply side is not blocked, then when you crack the bleeder you will get flow from the open side. But when you close the bleeder - no flow. And.... therefore no heat. You might have to work a little harder to prove it to yourself. When I bought my engine the entire IACV bleeder was choked with cooling system schmutz. I had to clean it and the pipework out before it would work.

The markings on a balancer are on the outer. The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber. The outer and the inner can, and will, slip against each other as the balancer starts to fail. Put a new balancer on it.

Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.

Is there coolant flow to (through) the IACV?

A is the HICAS CU. As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom? Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else. Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.

Well, yeah, there is a (very thin) layer of soft lead on the surface of bearing shells to provide that first "cushion" against physical contact. Just because it is wearing off doesn't actually mean that the engine is dying. Of course, it can mean that the engine is dying. If the engine is making no noises and the oil pressure is (mostly, as in most of the time) fine, then it could just be suffering under particular conditions. That could be startup, or maybe at some point in the normal operation cycle - or maybe the Beemer engine suffers under long left hand bend (see, highway on ramp) and the pressure drops. You'd need to try to work out if any such thing is happening and then determine if you need a bigger oil pump, or an Accusump or something.

It's not ideal, by any means, but I think many of the horror stories are because of people not understanding what it is, what it does, what their VSS that they need to modify looks like and whether the Jaycar unit is applicable. In principle, it is relatively easy to build a device to take in an AC variable (peak) voltage variable frequency signal (which is what you get from most Nissan speed senders) and just spit out a constant (peak) voltage variable frequency AC signal at a different (modified) frequency.

Find out how much lead is in that additive. Lead is normally a no-no, but seeing as it is an "additive" they might be able to get away with relatively low levels in their product, that could then turn up at the ppm level in the bulk oil.

Yeah, and how many of them are still lying around waiting to be used? I think we're in a new era of Skyline modification, where you can't rely on parts from other models being available any more.

A speedo corrector module has to be the simplest thing. Why anyone would consider any alternative is beyond me. You could even knock one up yourself with an arduino in an afternoon.

I have no idea what the power steering control module is on a non-HICAS car because I've never seen one. But it is a fair bet that is essentially the same thing as on any other Nissan of the period with variable PS. So, Maximas, that sort of thing. It will pick up the ECU's speed signal off the "bus" (there's not really a bus - any consumers of the VSS are all just connected to that output on the ECU). The output should (most likely) be a PWM signal to give you an effective average voltage between the minimum and maximum values. You could possibly look at the HICAS part of the R32 manual to see what that range is likely to be (for non-HICAS, as it should be about the same).

That would be a rarity. You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay. And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay. Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

Impressive power for a small rear housing. 👌

If it's all just in paint, then....yes. Sort of. Depends on what you mean by "easily". Complete strip and powder coat? Easy. It's just you hand the wheels and a stack of coins to the wheel guy and they come back fixed. Damage to the alloy? Not easy. Still doable. Same basic method. Wheels + money to the wheel guy.

Duty sets the boost level. The duty number != boost, it is just a number between 0% doing something and 100% doing something. More number = more boost. Gain and p gain are used to help account for boost creep or drop off. The details vary from controller type to controller type (ie, the Profecs use similar terms but achieve their results slightly differently.) The manual should explain all that. These controllers are dumb in that they do not control to a boost target. They are open loop. You need to adjust settings until it is doing what you want. If the performance of the motor, boost control system, elevation, weather, etc change, then the boost can and will come out to a different result on the same controller settings.

Not the same thing, in case you were confused. The "wire" he spoke of is the heated wire, which is the sensing element inside the AFM.

In which case it hardly matters either (and there's got to be no way that anyone would want to stick with the factory blue, because it is goddamn yawntastic).

It can all be fixed, but if you've got multiple damage reports for chassis rails and floorpan and sills....I'd be expecting a $10k bill there. Alone.

I understand that the R34 ECU can be sensitive to what is going on wrt the coilpacks/loom. You'd be well advised to put a Consult reader onto the diagnostic port and read the codes. The one(s) in the ECU will be the ones most likely to tell you what's going on. The TCS light will be a secondary effect.

Hire a dyno in Canadia and tune over the 'net?

Is correct. Manifold vacuum at idle is about the difference.

It's the front axle on a Stagea. How hard can it be worked?

Take it to a sparkie. We'll never work out what is borked from across the internet. It'll be something unexpected.

You might want to explain that to the unitiated (ie the OP).