GTSBoy

Given they've been on the market for about 3 minutes, you're not likely to find too many people who have tried one.

Buy a very large syringe and some small bore PVC hose.

If the Nistuned ECU is set up to be an RB25DET ECU, then you can put any maps into it you like. You need a programmer to put the actual ECU firmware onto it (the first time, or to change it for another different engine application), not to change maps. As said above - all the Nistune base maps are freely available in the ROM pack.

If that is not an optical illusion then they do not look like the same length. The closer one has longer splines. But here's the rub. You say it has an aftermarket mechanical diff in it? Well, when you buy a Nismo LSD you get 2x new stub axles to go with it, because the Nismo mechs are not intended to work with the original unequal length VLSD stubs.

This is where I'd start. I like GKTech stuff, but there are more reports of that particular fan not working on RBs than there are reports of it being even as good as stock, let alone better. Also, inspect the radiator. How are the fins? If many are bent over, then you will suffer. Also look at the overall air path from grille through to the radiator core. Is it set up to allow air through the front mount to just spill out the bottom instead of going through the rad? Some corflute sheeting might help.

It's a Euro debt trap, so....just about anything? Cam drive, flux capacitor, money pump, etc.

Maybe, but the % change is actually pretty small.

Both sides of the caliper properly bled? I know it can be hard to convince yourself yes/no to that question.

Take the pads out, one side at a time, and see that the pistons on the padless side move properly when you press the pedal. Just to make sure that they're all doing the right thing. You can restrain 2 out of 3 pistons on a side if you need to make sure that one of them is moving. You might have too because if there is one pistons that is much easier to move than the others, then it will and they won't. Same (but opposite) with one that is much stickier than the others. You might find that one side is not working properly. To be clear, I do not think the caliper is spreading. It seriously only looks like it is moving side to side. To spread it has to bend around an axis formed by a line through the bridge bolts (basically the line between the two caliper halves along the top. (I'd hate to think that a brand new Alcon caliper would be that bendy.) That implies the piston related problems I speculate above.

Yeah, I just watched the video also (I don't generally watch embed videos because I have to enable them in NoScript before doing so). That's not "caliper flex" in the classic sense. Caliper flex is where the body of the caliper spread because it is not stiff enough to resist being pushed apart by the forced imposed at the piston/pad interface. That whole caliper is moving. That probably means that the dogbone is flexing, which would point to it being too flimsy and/or simply misaligned so that the caliper has no option but to try to centre itself on the disc. The pedal sinking to the floor would have to be unrelated.

With the caveat that personal imports need to be owned by the person who is importing the car (not a family member, the very same person) and you must be resident outside of Australia for a year. As this one is >25 years, you just follow this procedure, which takes 0.00001 bogomips of googling to find. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/department/media/news/how-import-your-older-vehicle-25-years-or-older

Pedal to floor is not caliper flex. Pedal to floor is hydraulic leaking/bypassing. You quite possibly stuffed the seals in the MC when you were bleeding. A common mistake the unitiated make is to push the pedal down too far when bleeding with an MC that has been in use a long time. Crud builds up on the MC wall just past the furthest it is ever pushed in use. That crud can be hard enough to damage the seals when you push the piston down past when bleeding. Might be time for a kit in the MC.

Just buy a software license and put the stock maps into the (tuned for a worked engine) Nistune. It is not difficult. I cannot imagine owning Nistune without owning Nistune Software. Just....how could anyone contemplate it?

25Neo injectors are 3/4 length with 14mm o-rings at both ends and the Denso plug. Like these. https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r35-gtr-350z-370z-720ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ You can probably fit any 14mm o-ring injector you like to that manifold, provided they are not too short or too long. And even if they are too short or too long, you can add spacers to the injectors or to the fuel rail mounting legs if you really needed to. Though I'd be hard pressed to believe that you would attempt it with anything other than brand new EV14s like the ones I linked. Having said the above, if the picture of the injector you posted has anything to do with the manifold, it looks like they are specifying full length injectors. So you'd just buy the full length part number instead of the 3/4 length part number. But I can't see any mention of that injector length on that manifold's eBay page, so perhaps you should ask the vendor.

Oh, me rikey very much.

There is no impact. Granted, mine is in an R32, so there are a couple of other things going on, but.... my auto ECU came with the auto engine. Bolted it up to the manual gearbag and suddenly the TCU is just spare parts along for the ride. The ECU doesn't (really) care. Nistune is the fixer of all wrongs. I have no ABS CU or traction control. That would be a recipe for fault codes and permalit check engine light. But....just go into the diagnostics pages and turn them off. Presto, ECU no longer cares that it can't talk to those CUs. If you're worried about the TCS light being lit on the dashboard for some rason (that I am not catching right now), then.... remove the globe. No-one needs the TCS anyway. That is what throttle control is for. I certainly don't have it - haven't missed it in 12-13 years or so. Never wanted it.

OK, so. Look very closely at this. Here is a snip of the ECU diagram. Note that the VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal) input to the ECU is sent from the speedo head. The speed sensor on the gearbox (whether auto or manual) is connected to the speedo, and the speedo converts that AC voltage signal to a 0-5V DC PWM signal that the ECU reads. Pin 58 is NOT used by the ECU. It is used by the TCU. And unlike Duncan's thought on the matter, I would think that the only comparison done (by the TCU) would between trans output shaft speed and engine rpm. This so that the TCU can know whether the lockup converter is doing its thing, the clutches are managing shifts appropriately, etc etc. I would be willing to bet that the only speed signal you need to intercept with any speed cut defender, regardless of auto or manual transmission, would be the VSS into pin 29. That is the only speed signal available on a manual. And here is the rub. Your car is a manual. So why are we even having this conversation. There is NO speed signal input on pin 58 on your car right now and it runs just fine. That should tell you how important that pin is for your manual ECU.

What's wrong with the OEM filter. They do the job perfectly. As to your actual problems. Stop driving the. Take it to a mechanic. If you actually do have a fuel delivery limitation and you are putting it under load, you could be killing it.

People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.

What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both). It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.

You have your numbers back to front. 350mm from wheel centre to guard lip would be scrapinly low and the suspension arms would be at spastic angles and it would have the road manners of a meth affected giraffe. You can down to ~450mm (from larger stock starting values about 50ish mm higher than that) before you start to create to many problems.

That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.

Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!

Well, of course there's something wrong with the suspension. It was like that when it came out of the factory. Nissan wanted it to ride at least 50mm higher than most of us. They wanted it to be comfortable enough that the press and user reviews didn't complain about fillings being knocked out of teeth. The marketing people wanted to be able to talk about their fantastic new 4WS system (even if it was a pointless exercise, ha! pointless! Do you see what I did there? no? oh well. too bad). There weren't any semi-slicks or semi-semi-slicks or 18" wheels. Laser pointers didn't exist, so you couldn't easily build a bump steer gauge. There wasn't any better technology for suspension bushes than squishy shit in a condom. The list goes on.

don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.