GTSBoy

I think you misunderstand. This was Greg driving from Melb to Syd (or return) at a constant 100km/h on the highway. Very little throttle movement, very little accel/decel. You should be able to get 8.5 l/100km under those circumstances (which is effectively what he reports - 50L for 600km is 8.3 l/100km). I drive my car to & from work every day, in traffic, on a mixture of 50, 60, 90 km/h roads (and therefore at up to 110km/h!!) with traffic lights and freeway sections. 28 km each way, so about a 30-40 minute drive depending on day, direction and traffic (which is enough for the majority of the drive to be "fully warmed up". I typically get flat 10 l/100km every single week. OK, maybe 10-10.5, every single tank of fuel. RB25DET Neo. It is easy to get acceptable economy. I won't say "good" economy, because modern cars are doing 5-6 l/100km in the same conditions.

Superpro are fine. There are some applications (R32 FUCAs for example) where they are no damn good, but typically for any normal suspension bush, they are fine. Some people will complain of them making noise. Some people will complain of them collapsing. But many of those can probably be traced back to not properly lubing at install or other installation problems, or possibly other problems elsewhere in the suspension that put additional load into particular bush. And for the legit complaints? Meh. Deal with it. I had to replace the poly bushes in my R32 FUCAs every year. The real issue is that I am sold on the idea of adjustability of at least upper arms. So I only have spots for poly bushes in lower arms these days, as everything else is either hardened rubber or spherical steel.

Nah. Any decent third party diagnostics unit should be able to talk Consult and all the other non-OBD protocols from back in the day. It's only 25 years since OBD started taking over. There's many cars from that ear still on the road. My mechanic's diag terminal is plenty able to talk to the other CUs in my car. Well, those that are still present, anyway. That's probably only the HICAS CU, as there never was an ABS or TCS or SRS CU, and the TCU went in the bin 25 years ago.

You'd be better off putting the ATTESA stuff into the boot. Same same but different, and not as bulky as a fuel cell. The space under the parcel shelf is not what I'd call "useful" boot space most of the time, even if I seem to have a guitar (not mine - child's) sitting there most days lately.

The main argument for lighter ARBs is that ARBs reduce the independence of the suspension. They link the left wheel to the right wheel. The lighter the ARB is, the less this linkage. When you hit a significant one wheel bump on a car with lighter springs and heavier ARBs, more of that disturbance gets transferred across to the other wheel. Whereas, with a heavier spring and lighter ARB, the impacted wheel is the only one that reacts to the hit. If you hit a significant two wheel bump, then lighter springs are the only things taking the bump as the ARB is not involved (both ends move up/down together). Then the spring rates alone determine how the car takes the hit. Softer springs (to a degree) will be more comfortable. Harder springs will accept the energy input better with less total compression (but obviously possibly more undesirable and probably uncomfortable body movement). The other significant thing to remember is that spring rate is really about coping with the rate at which loads are input to the suspension. Driving around slowly? Then any bump you hit is going to feed load into the suspension at a low rate, and you can use a low rate spring and with a low rate spring the damper has to less work to control the spring's motion. This describes street usage because it is mostly illegal to go fast or drive aggressively enough to require handling fast load inputs. But if you're going at racetrack speeds (or rally, or anything where going fast over whatever the surface is) then the loads get applied faster and you need to control that input with more spring rate, and then the dampers have to do more and that's why it all starts getting expensive. Anyway, the point of all that is, it's complicated, depends on usage and surface quality, and it's why proper race cars have a lot of adjustment and will even completely swap out springs and dampers when going from one track to another. One track might be smooth, and so even if it is a fast track there won't be rapid load input. Another track might be as rough as guts, or it might have a couple of sets of tight esses on it that require the car to heave from side to side. The rates at which loads get fed in will be different on those two tracks and probably require completely different setup. Three paragraphs and 400 words are nowhere near enough to convey how complicated this subject is and also I am nowhere near the right person to write a treatise on it, as it it not my field of expertise, or even keen interest. There are many books written on the topic, and as alluded to previously, they take differing approaches to accepting the compromises involved. So you can't read just one and think you understand.

I think you'd be surprised. The quality of the damping is very important (which MCA obviously take some care over). This is the reason I do not like Teins, because even with 8/6 kg springs, I think their damping is rubbish. MCA are in the camp of "very high spring rate, low ARB rate". Hence the really heavy springs on their gear. I think Gary's approach was from the opposite camp, which is to keep the spring rates lower and control roll with bars - although granted my only association with him is wrt to his B6 based setup for street Skylines and for that he was constrained to use off the shelf stock format springs and stock format mass market dampers (albeit revalved for improved performance). It's very much a horses for courses thing though, as both approaches are ultimately compromises that will favour one usage model over another, and they do not end up being totally equivalent to each other.

AFM is undoubtedly the best way to do things for an OEM, with driveability and emissions very high up in the list of priorities. But as Murray said above, they start to become problematic for modifiers. BOVs are a particular pain point.

No. My original advice remains 100% valid. Evey single CU on the car s able to talk to a diagnostic handset plugged into the Consult port. No OBD. No problem. Has Consult. PowerFC is not part of this equation. You want the codes from the SRS CU.

Time to plan to bypass that, because it's probably only a matter of time 'til the new one dies too.

Half your luck. I just had to buy a piece of 4mm ally to make a flange because I couldn't find any suitable scrap in the places I spend time!

Um, OK. But....my Hypergear highflow also has ceramic BB core. That's just come from some Taiwanese/Chinese factory. It's not like Tao builds the cores himself in his own foundry-factory. It's not rocket surgery any more.

Nice. I just use black corflute for these. Light, cheap, disposable if necessary.

They're such old tech that every Taiwanese/Chinese knock off turbo manufacturer has their version for sale anyway.

They will be (within normal range) and they won't be causing the misfiring.

Yes.

Probably. I have the GKtech ones. Cheaper, IIRC.

Yeah, but maybe not. Maybe yeah. Maybe not. You know how it is. I mean, if the volts are low and the pump has reduced capacity, then it will maybe not be able to supply enough fuel to keep up with your peak demand, but it really shouldn't make it go lean as you're ramping up, then catch up again. The pump dynamics are (should be) a pretty instant trade off between flow rate and pressure, and even that shouldn't matter because it is actually the job of the fuel pressure regulator to take care of that dynamic, leaving the pump to see pretty much the same pressure and flow conditions any time the engine is running.

The R32 ECU won't know why it is misfiring. This is likely to be a problem with the speedo drive cable. it could be broken and still driving, but lets go from time to time (which is unlikely, but possible). You could have damage at the plastic connector between it and the input to the speedo head. That's where mine broke. You could have gearbox oil creeping up the drive cable from a failed seal in the speedo drive at the gearbox. This is able to climb all the way up and gunk up the inside of the speedo. I had this too, and had to dismantle everything and very very gingerly clean the speedo out.

https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-s14-s15-front-swaybar-end-links?_pos=18&_fid=c4372418b&_ss=c

Neos have 2x dampeners and the reg. It actually takes quite a long stare and some head scratching to work out which way to hook it all up! Easier just to put it together and if fuel doesn't flow, you've got it back to front!

The cold idle problems will be dirty AAC and IACV. Need thorough cleaning with carby cleaner. The cold idle up valve is also electrically heated, so you need to make sure that's working. The stalling when it gets warm will be the igniter. No ifs or buts.

Yeah, but decent stuff, not that mystery stuff. Like AEM, or the ones done by Haltech, Link, etc.

It's not really doing 9500rpm is it?

Yeah, there's totally no point in searching.

Key on. Zero. At idle. - lots. The equivalent of about -65kPa or about -21 inches of mercury. Your boost guage is marked in some stupid metric vertical height of f**king mercury, so whatever 21 inches is in mm. Stupid f**king Japanese. Driving and poking but no boost? Zero. Impossible to say for the last one because it depends on what gear, speed and slope of hill you're on. Max boost is less than 7 of those bullshit units on the gauge though.