GTSBoy

The "2 wire AAC component" is just a solenoid, that opens and closes the idle control valve. It's PWM controlled by the ECU. It is hard to see how you can have the symptoms that you describe without it being caused by the valve itself being dirty and so not moving smoothly. Yes, I understand the rest of your description. Will it hurt to have it unplugged? No. You will not have idle control so idle speed will be able to fall below stall point if and when you put too much load on it (AC on, PS turned to one side, etc). Is it replaceable? I dunno. I think if mine ever goes that bad I will just be doing the whole ECU. Good excuse to go e-throttle and sidestep the whole idle control bullshit circus anyway.

I didn't even know such things existed.

Foul. Not fail. Different things.

I was going to say, "Mein Gott! He's Alive!" Or in this instance perhaps it's closer to "speak of the devil". He was invoked.

He's dumb. The exact mixture you need to run will depend on the specific motor (some will need more fuel than others, because some are knock resistant and others like to knock), the fuel (if you were planning to run on 91 you would inevitably end up with lower lambdas than if you were planning to run on 100), the boost target, the state of modification of the engine (ie, has it got higher or lower compression than it did stock, has it got big cams causing you to bleed off effective compression outside of the cam's efficiency peak, etc etc???) and a number of other things. Having said that, for a given combination of the above it might be very sensible to be aiming for say, 11.5:1 in the middle of the torque peak. That is pretty rich, but not "very rich". Very rich is (obviously) richer than that. Stock Nissan ECUs liked to push the mixtures down to ~10:1 when they got run out of their comfort zone. That's defo black smoke territory, but still not smokescreen territory. TLDR: he's dumb. The motor will be given what the motor wants, and that is not always "very rich".

Tyres also have to stay round, wear evenly, not delaminate, last a reasonable number of km, work in the cold and the hot, on dry and shallow and deep wet surfaces, and then all the things you superficially think they need to do, like stop the car running off the outside of a bend or up the arse of the f**kstain you just pulled in front of you at the lights. And....most of these cheap as shit Chinese tyres struggle to manage any three of those things, let alone a simple majority of them.

Hmm. My approach to the question of rebuild Teins or buy Bilstein is...neither. I got about the last set of revalved Bilsteins that Gary did. They were substantially better than the exact same model, not worn out, but not revalved Bilsteins I already had in the car. If I couldn't get something with same/similar valving, I don't think I could buy B6s. I do not like Teins. Therefore, if I had to buy suspension for my car again any time soon, I'd probably be buying the hardest edge** street/track coilovers from MCA or Shockworks as I could. ** I say hardest edge, meaning the sportiest stuff they do that they reckon can be driven on the street without just being totally inappropriate for that task.

The whole field will be behind them after 2 laps. Then the whacky racers oildown starts taking them out from the leader on downwards. Then Bradbury off into the sunset.

Korean company's phone made in China is not same as Chinese phone. Chinese phone made in China is made with inventions and dev blatently stolen from the Korean company, for approximately 3 months before burning the Chinese phone company's name and brand to the ground and starting again to get away from the bad publicity and reviews left online by disgruntled customers. Rinse and repeat for tyres. A little harder to do with cars, but I can see them screwing over local importer by just wholesale dumping brands once the quality picture becomes clear to the market. New brand pops up selling the same pig with different lipstick.

7 is stock. Put an exhaust on it, easily see 8 or 9. Put a bigger intercooler on it, easily see 10.

Well, splitfires are no different to a new stock coil, and stock boost is ~ 10 psi.....so 1.1mm is the likely best plug gap. Go ahead and use 0.9mm. It's not going to change the world.

Did not even read your post. Voted no. Immediately. Will not buy tyres from there. Will not buy cars from there. They have about 3/5ths of f**k all chance of repeating the Korean experience (of going from crap to actually good). That's because they give absolutely no f**ks for product quality. Only making the new version, completely dumping the old version, of everything, every 6 months.

They would have sold like 3 of them and all the cars with them installed would have been drifted into trees and power poles about 10 years ago.

Yeah, I wish my redline in 1st was about 10k. It comes up and yells "Surprise mutherf**ker!" whenever the red mist comes down at the traffic lights.

It would take $25k of my time to get even close to that as a starting point. Although, carving such things from foam core might be therapeutic. Might. Could also be maddening.

Nah, to remove excess high fill, 240 or 320 probably. 800 will take ages, clog and be a bitch. You don't care if you scratch the primer at these stages anyway, because there's more going back on over the top. You will soon see/feel/learn what grit to finish on, but I'd be willing to bet you never go finer than 400 for a bloody primer!

How f**king "deep" can scratches in interior trim actually be? Spray the primer on, sand it down. Spray some more on. Rinse, repeat. It'll be fine. If you're happy with a smooth finish, anyway. You might have to learn how to spray topcoat for a lumpy finish if you want something like original texture.

Ignoring the loss of texture, use high fill primer instead of filler. Sprays on like paint. Is paint.

Nah. But you do have to pull the wires off the back of the speaker and unroute them to pull them out of the door.

https://justjap.com/products/jsai-aero-nismo-n1-rear-side-skirt-extensions-frp-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

I guess the thing to look for would be for a considerable flow of crankcase gases out of the catch can. Something that you could probably only reasonably do on the dyno, and it might be a bit scary to try and see, with it located behind a rear tyre! But I'm sure someone could come up with a clever approach, from a GoPro or other camera, to streamers blowing in the breeze, or a calibrated whistle, or something. Anyway, normally a lot of gas flow is what we would consider to be undesirable, but in this case, a large enough gas flow would suggest that even if the long tube is the low point in the system there should be enough driving force to blow any oil all the way to the can. The risk, should the motor be "super healthy" and not have much gas flow to the can, is that maybe the oil does collect and make a gas lock. Hard to know how to judge what you might see though. I guess you could pre-fill the line with oil and see if it gets pushed into the can after being run up.

Take it to an auto electrician. Plug in a diagnostic handset. Read the codes.

Owners of GTRs cannot complain about the cost of parts.

Yeah, the clearance difference between cast and forged is because of the material difference and the fabrication method difference, not because of the usage. The alloys used and the forging process leads to a piston that has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the cast material does. This is fundamental property of the finished piston itself, not something that is desired. How you then deal with that depends on the state of other technology, the depth of your pockets, and perhaps the rules in any racing class that may or may not have things to say about such things. Before the advent of coatings, and with the materials that were originally used for forged pistons, the only real option was to go for wider clearances to allow for the expansion. And then you had to warm the engine up carefully, etc etc. Or, if you ran tighter clearances for a "street" engine, then you perhaps couldn't lean on it as hard as you might if it were built looser and treated properly (like a proper race engine would). Nowadays, with materials that are a little better (on the raw material thermal expansion coefficient front), plus better design/machining to control expansion (mostly around keeping it even instead of being non-isometric) and especially with coatings to control heat input on the crown and friction on the skirts, you can get away with a lot that would have been "against the rules" in the old days. These days there is absolutely no reason to fear running sensibly tight piston/wall tolerances on a street forged piston engine. You need the forgies because you will be giving it curry from time to time, but you want tighter tolerances because 99% of the time you're not bashing on it. Modern tech gets you there. And if you're building an actual race engine that will get leaned on hard all the time, then you still run wider tolerances because the pistons will definitely run hotter than your street engine will.

If you disconnect the spring&shock unit from the suspension, so you can move the arms up and down more easily, then you can generally feel by hand if there is anything to be worried about at the pivots. Same as if it was any other bushing. A prybar may or may not help with some of the directions that you might want to push things. Anyway, when they are firm, they are firm. You can really feel that there is nothing going anywhere. If you ever have doubts, you know it feels a little wrong compared to when they were new, then there is probably some play. We're talking really tiny movements here though that the insensitive might just gloss over. You just have to filter out the effects of imagination.