GTSBoy

Nice. My 2c on colour. The grey/white options are better than most others. The R32's shape (flared guards etc) look far better in light colours than in dark colours. Dark makes all the width go away, unless the car is hectically low, and hopefully no-one wants that any more. I think this rules out BRG, as much as I like that colour for almost any project. A compromise on BRG might be a much paler version of the green - perhaps with a generous metal flake in the clear. Something really surprising that would probably make the curves and shapes pop nicely. Do not do the yellow. That would only look good as a track car with lots of other graphics over the top. I would suggest a solid white rather than a pearl white. I really like the white that my car is painted, which is not the original Nissan white, it was repainted in Japan. The white is just really really white. Not cold, not warm. Although, now that many white cars have that pearl/metal in them to make them pop, those whites tend to look really cold, and makes my car's white seem warm by comparison. Anyway, solid is good, and it is much easier to repair and match if needed. One of our Swifts had the tailgate and rear bumper redone recently and the shop.....simply failed to get the pearled white white to match. Apparently the sun was blowing in the wrong direction or the birds were facing the wrong way on the power line outside while they were gunning it on. Greys.... I'm a bit meh on those. Especially with all the modern solid greys that are around now that look like they dipped the shell in the E-coat tank and then forgot to put the top coat on. Just yucky. Even if the original grey was to my taste, I'd be put off by that association! Reds can be hot on R32s. The red that was on the various racing cars in the 90s in Australia and Japan works (like the Winfield and GIO sponsored cars). If it wasn't a case that is on every 2nd car on the road, I'd consider Mazda Soul Red, as it is a really amazing colour for cars with curves also. Just sad that it is so oversubscribed. I'd also be tempted to put a colour that Holden used on the Toranas back in the late 60s/early 70s. Called Linamint. An absolutely excellent green. And those Toranas were GTRs too, so you can say it's a GTR colour. There's another from the same set called Strike Me Pink. Probably a bit much for a Jap car though.

100% pure snake oil.

Hmm. Given that the retail price in AU for a brand new one is ~$4k, GLW $3k bid.

-7s are OK. Some lag, but not terrible.

Just cut a shim from a coke can and insert it in the flange between the BOV and where it mounts. A gasket without a hole in it, if you will.

Well then. Break out the wiring diagram and look for those wire colours on a 2pin something or other near the other dashy stuff.

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing. 900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

Yeah I was talking about specifically in connection to doing so on the original turbo, which starts spinning very fast indeed(TM) after about 12 psi on a 25.

Was probably for some alarm component that was mounted near the barrel. An RFID/prox sensor or other switch. Possibly even just an LED. It does not look much like a typical Nissan underdash/loom plug.

To be fair, you can make over 200 rwkW. It's just a question of whether it is until tomorrow or the day after.

Typical heavy boat RB25 consumption.

In that case, ~190 rwkW, at best. Probably less, because not Neo. Well, if he's willing to risk his/your time on the dyno, then who am I to complain? There is no difference between yellow jackets and "shitty ebay coils". Same same. That is a very rare result.

To carry on from Duncan's valuable observation.... Standard turbo will not likely exceed 200rwkW at the maximum sensible boost pressure, which is only ~12 psi on these turbos. The yellow coils have a better than even chance of pissing you off as soon as the boost exceeds 10 psi. These are not a good choice. You'd be well advised to f**k them off before you go to the dyno so you don't waste their time.

That is so far in the future that the question is meaningless. 5 years perhaps not so much, but 10 years is well into the possible territory of "how dare you try to register a car with a petrol engine conversion you environmental savage you!?!**" **Won't somebody think of the children. Also, I would not expect an NA RB25 to ever die. 1 million km is not unreasonable. I don't know why people keep expecting Jap engines to die.

I don't see evidence that the engine is struggling up top. The torque curve does not roll over at all. That would not suggest high backpressure. Was it measured?

It's as sensible as any other modification to an NA Skyline, You're going to need to put in an LSD, gearbox, tailshaft and brakes to make it happen, same as if you turbo'd or turboswapped an RB. And then it will sound gross like a Falcon. But if you don't mind that, go ahead. It has been done. You can probably search up some examples, although there won't be too many of them here. Just out there in other forums and the tubes and so on. 'twere me doing a complete engine swap.....I'd be looking at a Mercedes V12.

You don't need a wideband. At the minimum it is a tuning tool, so only used when tuning. Old ECUs (like a Nistuned stock ECU) can only use narrowband and so can only target stoich mixtures when on closed loop fuelling. More modern ECUs can use the wideband all the time to target other stoichiometries when in closed loop and can be set up to auto-tune the fuel map just as you drive around (which is still, technically, "tuning"). And you can have alarms and actions on incorrect mixture detection, etc, that are not possible with narrowband. If I were putting in a Haltech/Link, etc, there is no way that I would not have a wideband with it.

I'm staying Nistune until I am forced not to. And I tune myself. Well, some of my tuning anyway. My Bro-in-law is a gun tuner and much prefers to be in control on the dyno. I just make some changes with road tuning when required. But I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND trying to tune an engine from a cold start (and I'm talking about you being a cold start, not the engine). Recipe for unhappiness. It is something you need to build up familiarity with and skills on.

Yeah, but it's not a good motor as used in the donor car. Low revving and low power, courtesy of tiny camshaft lobes, as per all other Nissan V8s. You have to tear them to pieces and put them back together the way that god intended before they're any good.

I know where there is a complete Profec B spec II available, if you want one of those.

Well there's your prahblem.

The obvious Youtube exposed guys, being Knight Family Motorsport or Cleveland.

The day an RB needs any belt more fancy than a Pitwork belt is the day I eat one.

Sunshine Coast?

No. No they are not. Coils in any shade of the rainbow other than the OEM black and the official blue of Splitfire are to be regarded with massive suspicion. Some of them work, many of them are very cheap crap. Impossible to tell between them until it's misfiring on the dyno. There are people who swear by a particular rainbow brand, including those Supersparks, saying that they ran well for them. Those are the lucky people who managed to get a whole set of 6 good ones. Many other people got 3 good ones, 1 bad one and 2 really bad ones. Bought another set, got some different split between the possibilities. It doesn't matter these days, because no-one in their right mind would use stock format coils on an RB, now that you can buy massively strong and good quality pencil coils and conversion kits for ~double what a set of Splitfires cost. I have Splitfires and they are fine for my power level, but if they start to play up I will be putting R35 coils in.