GTSBoy

Well, it's not off any "model" - as in, I really don't think it is Nissan. Some aftermarket crowd from back in the days when there was no weight limit to the amount of body kit that could be strapped on.

Welcome. Have you recently come into an inheritance, or won Lotto or something?

And they also confess that they just 3D printed them! Which makes me wonder if they will buckle in the heat worse than the originals did. Perhaps I need to hire a Chinese hacker to get the print files out of Nismo's server?

700 bloody Nismobux!

Actually, given that one of mine is in 2 pieces, I agree with this.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I don't think the RB ECUs can do the boost control thing. That's S14 and 15, no? The RB boost control output is just a digital, not PWM.

Yes. Same same.

The side bits just dangle in the breeze. They don't do anything. Neither does the rest of it, without a flat floor and some time spent testing to find out how low you need to make the car to gain any effect.

WRT subs in a Skyline, my approach was just to mount suitable** 6.5 sub woofers in the parcel shelf and drive them from the sub outputs of my head unit (yes, my head can unit can be set up to use the rear outputs to drives sub(s) directly - odd, I know). But you could obviously do the same with a discrete amp in the boot. **Means with suitable T-S parameters for mounting in a very large enclosure or infinite baffle. This is directly the opposite of what most sub driver designers are doing, because most people want to stuff the most sub into the smallest enclosure possible. But they do exist.

1998 would be the compliance date.

All RB flywheels bolt to all other RBs.

Yup.

Yeah. Except. It doesn't. Big Tao highflow WG flapper swings freely in there. Is no problem.

Stock engine & turbo. No changes to anything except: Divided dump, 3" catback wit good cat. FMIC return flow (good core and hand fabricated tanks & pipes to make the most of the space behind the bumper reo. Steel turbo inlet. Boost controller. Oh. & Splitfires, which is worth nothing, really.

I drive the Neo in 5th at 50 km/h. You don't want to floor it, because it does grumble a bit, but it is flexible enough to roll around down that low. At 60-70km/h it is perfectly driveable in 5th.

No. Not even good for turning the boost up on a stock turbo. No. Stock turbo, running to ~12 psi, which is about the max that is reasonable on a 25Neo, will max out at <200rwkW. Depending on the bullshit factor of the dyno, of course. Mine, on a very reasonable dyno, made 191rwkW. Yes, true. Although, having them in place and tuned before you upgrade the turbo is a wise move. That way, you know that they work and you have a feel for what headroom you have before you do the turbo. If you do it all at once, when the inevitable problems rear their ugly heads, trying to get it started or trying to tune it on the dyno, you have multiple changes all at one time that could be responsible for the problem.

You cannot exceed about 220rwkW on the stock AFM. So if you're planning to go higher, then yes, R35 AFM required (for Nistune). Same with injectors. They top out at the same sort of power. So you will want 725s. NOT 1000s. Nistune is not great with big injectors. The ECU tech is too old for really short pulse widths. Intake doesn't matter at the power levels you're talking about. Do what you like. Returnflow coolers start to present extra resistance at the <300rwkW level you're talking about. They still work, but at a cost. If you want to unload the turbo a bit, make tuning easier (ie from less exhaust back pressure) then a cross flow is sensible.

Nah. Per the other thread, in which he posted the dyno chart.... Wheel spin bitches!

Yeah, this.

You mean all of the reserve NA torque? But for a Neo with a better inlet manifold and VCT, there is both more of that available, and also....meh. Use a little boost, change down a little more frequently, etc etc. All I can say is that 1st gear would be a hell of a lot more useful with a taller diff ratio. I used to have 4.3 (because it was a 2L) and I had that in there when I first did the Neo swap. After the change to 4.11 gears, the car was infinitely better to drive. The old mantra from the 80s, when adding a turbo was, put in taller diff gears, use the torque adder that you've just bolted to the exhaust manifold as it was intended. Yet, for some reason, Skylines have 4.11 gears and bloody Silvias have 3.7s! Never understood that.

Well, the other end of one of those wires should go to ground (maybe via the globe) and the other end should have 12V (maybe having come via the globe). The wire is not solid copper along its full length right now. So..... go looking for where it is not.

I'd bank on no more that 15 if you're not leaning on it all the time. I get flat 10s on 98.

The dwell times for R35 coils are a decent match with stock RB ECUs.

I posted the diagram as an attachment in a thread just the other day. Search to find ti.

Do you not have the R33 wiring diagram?