GTSBoy

Gleason cut. Just for correctness.

If you have to change the loom now, you might as well not waste the money put into that, and go the whole hog and upgrade the entire system. The poor (or tight-arse) man pays twice.

R34 GTT ABS uses wheel speed sensors that are tucked in close to the diff housing, reading tone wheels that are mounted on the stub axles. So, whatever "other" diff you obtain, needs to have the same. This reduces your options quite a bit - there's a lot of variability between models, early and late, manual and auto, etc etc. So do not assume that any other diff you can get whole will work. You also need the right stub axles. If your R34 has a VLSD, then you could and should be able to put its stub axles into say, an S14 diff. That is provided the spline count is correct, which also changed across the years. The VLSDs have one quite short and one quite long stub axles (inside the diff centre), because of the design of the VLSD (which is shit, by the way). You cannot put those stubs into other types of diff, and vice versa. If your R34 has a helical LSD (later S2 R34s had these, they are as rare as fcuk), then you already have a great LSD. You can buy new CW&P gear sets. If you had a helical, I would merely be spending a couple grand (aussie) on a 3.7 or 3.9 gear set and put that onto your existing centre. Should be able to get it all done (the setup work is fiddly) for less than $US2.5k. If you don't have a helical, then you can also get a Nismo GT Pro LSD centre that will come with stubs, and you can put the good gears onto that. That's another, probably, $1500. Worth it, in all case, over the fcuking lottery that is Nissan diff tetris, trying to buy something 2nd hand that has possibly already been frankendiffed by someone (like me) who is willing to take apart several diffs to put the good bits together in one.

Do shit properly. Put the gears you want onto the centre you want in the housing you need to use, with the stub axles that will work in your car. Whole Z3x series swap is lazy and wrong, as Rob describes.

Because there's no special difference between the GTR and 25 looms (that matter, anyway). The differences that matter are that R32 and S1 R33s had dumb coils, the S2 R33s had coils with built in igniters and then so did the R34 stuff (but with other differences, like physical mounting differences). So if you're replacing the coils with R35 coils anyway, then all you need to do is match the plugs.

Shouldn't think so. Too much different.

Down here there is. Here, you won't get slapped for suggesting that you might "put it in her fanny". In NA....probable slap incoming.

Fixed your post for North American English.

Which, straight up, is this https://www.wiringspecialties.com/r33-gts-vr38-coil-pack-conversion-harness/ or this https://www.wiringspecialties.com/prp-r35-gt-r-smart-coil-kit-for-rb25det-s1-s2-bracket-hw-stalks/ But you cam also buy equivalent stuff direct from PRP or Goleby's and all the other usual local suspects, without the USD and shipping costs of wiring specialties.

Point google translate camera phone thingo at the Jap text next to the ports?

All of the ^^ above is essentially true, except perhaps the semantics about there being no 1.5-way option. If you allow semantics to determine the argument, then any time the ramp angles are not even then it is a 1.5-way. But as with genders, there are at least 73 different ways to set these things up, to the extent that it is probably a rainbow spectrum. The Cusco doc I linked shows that Cusco's approach is to allow customers to select from a wider palette of ramp angles and clutch plate stacks and spring sizes and so on. So if you really really really want to get into the fine nitty gritty of optioning a diff, then Cusco's offering is probably the place to look. Everyone just raves about the Nismo diffs because they are reputedly very civilised, but as you can adjust how these are set up also, it is difficult to reconcile those reports against reports like Greg's ^ where he argues that it was an aggressive bitch to drive with. Your piece of string might not be parallel to someone else's bag of skittles. Meanwhile, after 4 years, I have my helical back in my car and I am loving it. I just wish I had some power to challenge it. Need to fix the dyno next.

Somewhat intense guide to Cusco diffs https://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/LSD Guide Final.pdf Sadly, I'd forgotten that there is no 1-way Nismo GT Pro option. Which is a shame, because various users here have said that even the 1.5-way can be a bit annoying in a streeter.

OK, so some important points need to be made here. The KAAZ diff is not, in itself, a helical. It clearly is a clutch type mechanical LSD, the same as any other KAAZ LSD. So I am going to go ahead and assume that when the say "helical" they mean that it is meant to go into a diff that was a helical. The reason that this is necessary is that the various stock Nissan diffs have different length stub axles. The VLSDs have one long and one short axle inside. The helicals are either exact same length or ever so slightly different (so technically one long and one short, but only just). I really should have paid attention while mine was apart recently. So you do not want that KAAZ diff. And really, I don't think I would ever want any KAAZ diff because in my experience they are all nasty to live with. Get the Nismo and set it up as a 1 way. Or, if you have to have a helical, look into using the Quaife centre. You have to make sure that you have the right spline count on the stub axles, as well as various other compatibility traps, but apparently they can be used in a Skyline diff. I just haven't looked into it closely enough to know the whole story because I already have a helical centre in my diff and spending ~$2000 to change to another helical is not on my immediate priority list!

Looks like a stock VLSD. If you look in the hole in the centre, you can see some side/spider gears. That is NOT what a helical looks like. If you look in there even closer, you will see something else just below the visible gear tooth. That looks to me like the viscous cartridge. That is a piece of shit suitable only for supplying housing, CW&P, and possibly stub axles, for an upgrade to an aftermarket LSD. The 5 bolt stub axle flanges show that it is from a turbo. If it is from a manual it will be a 4.11. If it is from an auto it will be 4.083. You cannot tell what is inside a diff without taking the cover off. Even if there were reliable markings on the outside....people can change what is on the inside.

Tiny nasty little wires that are not suitable for carrying higher power levels? Nope. Fresh speaker wire is the only (good) way to go.

Find the lamps. Find the battery. Find the switch. Follow the wires (black lines) between them. Print it out on a bunch of A4s and stick it together with tape if you need to. It's a worthwhile endeavour.

They are posted on these very forums about a thousand times. R33_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

Heh. I meant "good" not "god". But god will do.

This seems like a genuine congratulations moment. The sort of thing that can't and doesn't happen.

MMMMmmmm Mmmm. Misfire. Sounds hot.

Get the wiring diagram. Work out which wires have power and earth and at what times (ie, switch opened/closed). Then grab your multimeter and look for those voltages and work out what is wrong.

Finally a use for all those FWD GM V8s!

Really? I find that very hard to believe. That is a simply massive tyre in terms of both width and sidewall height for a stock Nissan. Typically on a 17, Nissan were using 235/45. I must ask, are you sure?

Why would anyone bother? Just rip out all the OEM shit and use a decent head unit, decent amp and decent speakers. Nothing remains.

It's not a Nismo. Can't see if it has a VLSD cartridge in it. If you can see a cartridge through the hole, then it is a VLSD. It's also not helical (which is the god S15 diff).