GTSBoy

Somewhere in the past in this or another thread, I said, "And so it begins".

Good one @PranK. A year later and no update on the cause of the noise.

Heh. I come back to this thread to recant my statement that R32 GTSt (and other S & R chassis diffs) run a crush spacer behind the pinion bearing. Definitely a solid spacer/washer. About 3-4mm thick.

You can get away with smaller (less than you'd want) brake ducts with a little water spray added into them. Only need a super mister nozzle, a little pump and small bore tubing to get enough water to take the sting out of the brakes. Make friends with the aero guy again.

That's either a severe speed error in whatever was saying 162, or not the speed limiter causing it. The ECU gets its speed signal from the speedo in the car. Unless someone has changed the ECU's speed limiter setting (downward, which is possible, but stupid and very unlikely) there is no way that there is going to be a ~18 km/h gap between what the speedo says and what the ECU thinks the speed is. Well, maybe there is one way. The speedo can get full of grease if the seal at the gearbox speed sender leaks and allows grease to flow up the cable drive. But....you almost certainly do not have a cable drive on a car of this vintage, so forget about that possibility. The "fact" that it did the full pull up to ~160 was the reason Dose asked if it was done in 3rd gear. 4th gear will not run out of revs until much higher speed than that. The dyno run went to over 7500 rpm, which would be >180km/h in 4th.

0.8 bar is nearly 12 psi, so you have a little more boost than stock. Nowhere near enough to explain the amount of power it made at that boost, so it's going to be fair to assume that you have bigger turbos on it. -7s or -9s or something similar perhaps.

^this. The wonky dyno reading is wheel spin, fo' sho'.

What's the boost?

Ah. If you'd said that the original R32 instructions called for a diode, I would have said "well, duh!". If you did it without a diode then you were putting yourself directly into the "other funny business" category that I started with. Glad you got there with minimal trouble in the end.

Your 2nd relay idea is valid, but you can just put the switched side of it in parallel with the original aux fan relay, so they can both turn it on.

If there was no other funny business going on, and looking only at the wiring diagram, I would say: The logical conclusion has to be that when the engine is switched off, the AC control pin 14 on the ECU is switched to earth. I'm not sure why they would do that, but that is the only way for the fan relay to remain powered. Because you bridge pins 14 and 78 together, you have no way of being able to test which of those is actually being held low by the ECU while they are connected. What I would do to try to gain information is test for continuity to earth at each of those, when they are not bridged, and in each of the cases where the respective circuit is active and not active. Probably safest to use a voltmeter rather than continuity tester, because there is 12V on those pins when they are not active. So that is check for 0V at pin 78 when the A/C is on (ie, should be switched to earth by the ECU), off (should be not be switched to earth, should read 12V). And do the same for pin 14 when you have triggered the aux fan by shorting the temperature switch (for the ON case) and when it is not running. Then repeat all that with the bridge in place, just to make sure that the earth is being created in the ECU (which is the only thing I can imagine). None of this solves your problem, but you know now the behaviour in detail. Next thought: Perhaps the aux fan is held on for some time (ie, by an ECU timer) after the ignition is turned off, if the fan is active at the time the ECU is switched off. You can test this by testing the behaviour of the aux fan on its own. I would be: Triggering the ECU input at the temp sensor by shorting (with the engine running), remove the short and see if the fan stays on for a while even after the input goes away. If so, there is most definitely some type of delay that always happens. Do the above but turn the engine off while the fan is still running on delay (assuming it does, from above) and see if it stays running with the ECU switched off. Do the above but leave the temp switch shorted while you turn the ECU off. This probably proves not much, if you have already learned from the above points anyway. Then, we get to shenanigans. Maybe it is wrong and silly to bridge 14 to 78 because the ECU can't handle it. Maybe it creates a circuit latch inside the ECU that you can't break. In which case, you can't do it this way. If that's the case, then I would suggest attacking the problem at the root. You want the AC to activate the aux fan? Then get the AC actuation signal to switch another relay that shorts the aux fan temp switch. The relay will just bypass it. When the AC comes on, the ECU will also get the hot signal and run the fan. When the AC is switched off, the relay will drop out, the bypass around the temp switch will drop out and the wiring should look exactly like it did unmodified.

Just satin black (or gloss if you prefer) spray paint. Rustoleum, or the other self-priming paints are pretty good for this sort of thing. Just light coats until you're happy. That will probably look like arse. Less is more. Think about matte and satin black combo (your choice of letters or background being one or the other).

Try paint stripper. Body filler - assuming you're going to paint that part. If not....then I don;t know what to tell you. Try heating it with a hot air gun (gently) and pushing it back from the inside. You may be able to massage it until it is really good, or you may have to stop and then add some filler. Satin black spray paint. Even just the fiddly bits stuff is pretty good, but google around for people's reccos on what spray paint they swear by.

Do I have to take my tongue out of my cheek now? My point was very much more that both of these cannot be the same recommendation to achieve more response. Only one of them qualifies, and only for an R34. Beyond that point, suffice to say the ATTESA won't thank anybody for trying both at once!

Can I do these at the same time? How do they both work?

Pinging is detonation, yes. It sounds like a bunch of angry little men with hammers beating away on the inside of the engine. Pinging doesn't happen just because the knock sensor dies though. All that will happen in that circumstance is that if the engine does ping (and it shouldn't) then it will keep pinging because the ECU can't hear it. My check engine light was coming on because that's what the ECU does when (amongst other things, of course) it hears too much pinging and tosses all its toys out of the crib.

Nuh. Different.

Despite what Tao says, the OP6 highflow will indeed run only 10 psi if you really need it to. Mine is doing that right now (well, actually, it's doing nothing right now because my pinion bearing sounds like a broken end mill) because I haven't got a dyno (it also broke) to do the necessary after upgrading AFM and injectors. So I'm just pedalling it around on low boost right now. It is fine. I do suspect that it is in the wrong part of the comp map and making hot air and can only hope that it all gets a lot better once I can push it up to 18 psi or so. I suspect this because it pings like a motherf**ker if I turn it up to ~12 psi. Hence I suspect that it is hot. (I also have suspicions about my fuel pump going soft at the top end, for which I would also really like the dyno to be back in action!!). Anyway, point being, you could put a highflow on without tuning it. Not ideal (for a completely stock tune) because it would be bitchingly rich and retarded. Mine was tuned to provide about 190 rwkW on the stock turbo at 12ish psi, so it's perfectly safe so long as I don't let it ping. It did so for a little bit immediately after I put the car back together until I realised why the check engine light was coming on! (Like, on the first drive!). Running it on the dyno would have been better, perhaps. In case it is not obvious, I only have the low pressure actuator on this turbo and will want to swap it for a 14 psi or so one when I can.

Yes, but not really stock for stock, and not without changing anything else. If you are going to pay someone to put all that work into a turbo, you would be mentally deranged to do it at the stock performance level. Insane. Even a highflow is relatively poor value compared to the new turbos that Tao offers.

See my last post in this thread. Mixing and matching 26 cranks and rods and Neos causing wrinkles that you need to stay on top of.

Boost rag. Blocked cat. Shitty lifters. Cam timing wrong. CAS in the wrong spot somehow. Cursed by a wandering gypsie, built on a pet cemetary, etc.

There is no "rebuild" of the standard core, with its ceramic turbine. Any "rebuild" is actually a "recore". The original Hitachi BB core is actually quite large (ie long). The distance between the comp housing and the turbine housing is large. I got an OP6 highflow from Tao. The BB core he uses is tiny by comparison. The turbine housing sits in the same spot (it has to, because it is bolted to the exhaust manifold, and so that and the dump are all in the same place. But the comp housing moves backwards in the engine bay because of the shorter centre section, and so you need to mod your inlet pipe (by any of a number of different methods) and the water and oil hoses need some changes too.

Given that you appear to have a problem with at least one of the inputs required to put the TCU into diag mode, it is probably better to not bother to do diagnostics that way. Just go to a workshop that has a diagnostics terminal capable of talking to Nissan Consult stuff and interrogate the TCU directly. Going to be so much easier. You will be able to see directly if the TCU can even see the power button being pushed. The fact that it won't change into 4th suggests that you have a larger problem than just the power button, and there may in fact be no problem with the power button. The TCU might be ignoring it because of this problem. Of course, if you are going to complain about having to go to a workshop and pay someone to do this for you, then you can always start at the beginning (the wiring diagram) and use a multimeter to see if the button works at all (at the button) and/or at the TCU end of the wires. You might find the switch mech has broken or is dirty. You might find a broken wire. Etc.

Yeah. For the worse. Bigger cams do not make things happen earlier. They move the power curve to the right. Not what you're looking for.

That is an imaginary problem that dates back to the 90s. The reality is that the volume of that pipework is absolutely tiny compared to the pumping capacity of the turbo as it comes on boost. You can just do the maths yourself to work out how many milliseconds difference it's going to be between 2" and 3" pipework.