GTSBoy

It's less about the sock and more about what might have been shaken loose from the tank walls/floor maybe by E85 or summat.

Dirty sock?

It's more a case of forcing videos to be viewed at YT.com instead of with embeds, because embeds were not getting shown adverts. And it is all about the adverts.

It's definitely the pump, not the regulator.

Whilst all of that ^ could be totally innocent, taken together it sounds like all the alarm bells ringing. You're just going to have to go forwards, not look backwards.

So this should drive the ability to upgrade the triggering system. Your tuner will thank you for it, as will your engine.

Stock oil pump on a Neo is the N1, and is ..... OK. But only OK. My position on rebuilding an RB is that no RB should be rebuilt with the original oil pump. You need more volume and pressure. And.... then you need to restrict the amount of oil that the pump will deliver to the head, hence the restrictors.

Buy the stock motor. While it is apart to put the head on it, do: Nitto oil pump. Add extra restrictors to the head as required. Front and rear crank seals, water pump, timing belt. Any water or oil hoses on the driver's side and wrt the turbo that look anything other than new and flexible. A very good head gasket. Nitto head bolts. Thermostat. Clean out all coolant passages that you can easily see anywhere. Neglected Neos can get sludge built up in the hoses to and from and the inside of the IACV at the rear of the stock plenum. Makes bleeding difficult. New balancer. What is the ECU? If not stock, then now is the time to put a different crank and cam sensor on it to get more reliable timing. If you're going to go with the rebuild of your dead motor, I'm more with the shop than with your desire to not spend on it. At the very least it will want pistons. Rods are cheap these days, so that's them too. The rest of it pretty much needs and wants to be done even if you were to cheap out on stock pistons and rods. All the spanner work, cleaning, machining, bearings and resizings of things all need to be done.

Since when is stock boost on a VQ 14 psi? Look to the health or otherwise of the coil looms. They can die, taking one or more coils out. Disassembling something in that state can make it go from barely working to not working at all.

Yes, well, the result tells you that that is not true.

Well, make them fix it.

This speaks to your idle air control valve perhaps being sticky. Give it a thorough clean. The number of ways that people find to mess this stuff up in not limited to those that have already been done. There are always new ways. You need a competent mechanic to do some diagnosis. Maybe one of the things I listed will jump out at them. Maybe they'll find that the last guy to work on it left a dead hamster in the compressor cover, or accidentally filled half the pipework with silicone sealant, or the TB only opens halfway for some reason.

First up, compression measured on different comp testers is not comparable. You need to use the same instrument and you need to know that its calibration is still basically the same. So the 12-130 you have now could actually be the same as the 160ish that the front four had before. Of course, it could all be f**ked now, but it's not possible to tell from that measurement alone. The lack of power and so on could be form f**ked up valve timing, boost rags, or a million other awful surprises. 180 wkW is 9 psi on a healthy 25. So there is definitely something very wrong there.

He was last active nearly 10 years ago. Thread necro no likely worky worky. The best advice is clear out all the old crap, use an aftermarket ECU, build a complete new loom from scratch. The next best advice is use an R34 engine loom & ECU, adapt it where necessary to mate to the R33 body loom. Then at least you have a Nistunable ECU. The worst idea is to keep any of the R33 stuff.

Yeah, but Kinks has a 5.7L V8 in his R34.

It's pitting corrosion. Iron gone, leaving carbon behind. Should have been smothered in assembly lube, which is a good idea for its start-up lubrication benefits, but also is better at keeping moisture off the bare steel. Probably just do as Josh said, but I'd bet there's nothing to be gained from the cleaning step. You will have to be wondering what the bores look like too now.

Fairy 'nuff

Would express interest in the diff and axles if you end up removing them. What diff is it?

Yeah they usually mount under the valve stem. Whether they are moveable or not might depend on the kuntery index of the OEM.

OMG. Fancy using a RAL colour code on a car! What next? Pantone?

And so it begins.

Meh, hard to tell from shitty photos of shitty borescope vision. Could be small traces of detonation, could be nothing.

That compressor wheel has had a single solid object stuck in the scroll at the tight spot, knocked chunks out of every blade tip. The suggestion that it was already like that is probably valid. A good reason to always rip the housings off and have a look when buying a used turbo.

Not interested in measuring it yourself? Take 5 minutes.