GTSBoy

And so it begins.

Meh, hard to tell from shitty photos of shitty borescope vision. Could be small traces of detonation, could be nothing.

That compressor wheel has had a single solid object stuck in the scroll at the tight spot, knocked chunks out of every blade tip. The suggestion that it was already like that is probably valid. A good reason to always rip the housings off and have a look when buying a used turbo.

Not interested in measuring it yourself? Take 5 minutes.

Yes, well, what you really want and need is a centrifugal supercharger. Will give you more than the pathetic 130kW down low, more than the underwhelming 210kW at 4k, and put you back into touch with the big boy boosted RBs up top.

When I say "blowers" I only think of positive displacement. I think that centrifugal superchargers belong only on WW2 fighter aircraft and engines that are already so large that you have plenty of torque down low (ie, the V8 brigade). I think a blower on an RB25, running 15 psi of boost or thereabouts, should make double the stock power almost everywhere and be a riot to drive. It would feel like a good 5L I don't think that it would be too much boost for the midrange and put the block at too much risk, but there are ways to manage that if it looked frightening. There was a bloke on PF that twincharged an RB30 using a sizeable blower and a big turbo. It was fairly mental, even with very low pressure ratios across each compressor, because the blower got it moving immediately and fed plenty of gas to make the turbo work. I love the silliness of that and would really like to try it on an RB25, but the struggle to fit it all in is real. Power steering and air-con and blowers and alternators (and inlet an exhaust manifolds) all have to live in the same spaces. I have my own problems to solve, let alone buying someone elses!

Well the video refused to play smoothly for me, so that wasn't helpful. It is probably missing. No CEL is present doesn't mean that it's not missing. Could still be ignition. Could be weak fuel pressure. Could be noisy CAS signal.

Yeah, nah. I think he wrecked the closure latch and the vertical support steelwork, which is an essential change when putting a GTR bonnet onto a GTSt.

Which is about 30mm lower than minimum recommended for R and C chassis cars. You can go that low, but there are consequences for suspension geometry (and thus to handling, which will have....quirks) and also to clearance to lip/struts.

Yeah, but what about the measurements that matter, like the eyebrow height?

Maybe the mech. Unless the roof shape is the same, I wouldn't expect the panel, and therefore maybe parts of the frame to fit.

Yuh, wheels are too big and the car is too low. You have to fix at least one of those, or better, both. Cannot have cake and eat it too.

You ran it lean under boost. It could be f**ked.

Well, it doesn't look like a faked up plate - in that it looks like it should, other than that paint code. But there are no 4 digit paint codes. You've probably already looked at it, but GTR registry doesn't list R32 GTRs made in any colours other than 326, 732, AH3, BL0, KH2, the silvers (KG1/KL0), and TH1. Ignoring the handful in bright red and dark metallic green. The paint in that photo looks like it might be dark blue pearl (TH1).

Something's f**ked. Fuel pump, blocked filter, or something else fuel related. Blocked cat or something exhaust related. It is definitely engine, not gearbag, causing it.

I might be wrong, but I thought the Z3X chassis diffs had CV joint input flange to the diff, like GTR, not like RWD R chassis.

Further to that and my advice ref the tweeters, have a look for my post about a year or so ago where I built some pods for the 6.6s I put in. Tweeters look good by the way. That's a decent mount.

Yeah, I've always looked at the 7163 in the same way that Josh appears to be doing, in that it seems to be a "magic" turbo for what can best be described as "sensible" power levels. And maybe that is more true on a 2L than on a 2.5 or 2.6L engine. I always sort of thought that if I was going to go to the effort to completely change everything on my (remember, very nearly stock) setup, that I'd want a 7163. And at the same time I knew that there were all sorts of reasons why it wasn't a great choice, to do with flange styles and wastegates and so on. And I would never have demanded 600+ HP out of whatever I did. I think for a daily that is driven in traffic, there is little point in choosing a turbo that can do those sorts of numbers. And I want to be able to knife fight with the Karens in their CX-5s, not be left in the dust by the mad bitches. But....it seems like the G30s are actually the answer, even if they do seem like they are too big according to my possibly misguided priorities of the past. What I actually want is an RB25 that comes on boost at 2000 rpm (or even better, if possible) so that there is some more torque than you get from the pre-boost threshold output, and is on max boost nice and early, say before 3000, and is happy to run out to 7500 or a bit more, making 500ish (engine) HP, ie, the upper 200s rwkW territory. I want better than stock characteristics at the bottom end and about double stock power at the top end. I suspect that's why I still think about blowers.

The answer to the problem of twin turbos never providing the benefit they were intended to provide (earlier spool and better response for the same power level) is always answered by twin-charging.

Should be 4.3

If you want to do polls on here, then this forum is as good a choice as several others, better than most. You might want to contact the admin to inquire about "advertising". There are some rules.

And I reckon stock switch-off is about 4700-4800, depending on Neo/vanilla. I get the impression that if an adjustable exhaust gear is used or bigger cams are installed, that there is usually good reason to increase that to ~5500. Results will vary, consult you doctor, etc etc.

What's normal?

Your measurement technique will never tell you the deck height. Tape measures are not accurate enough, and you need to measure from the centreline of the crank, not the bottom of the skirt. I don't know what the correct dimension is. Hopefully someone will chime in with it. But in the mean time, buy yourself a good quality 1000mm ruler and a straight edge. The straight edge is to take the place of the crank. You need to bolt on the main caps, and measure from the top of the main bearings to the deck, and from the bottom of the bearings to the deck, and average those two numbers.

Well, just going by your description, it is the engine that is struggling. The struggle could originate in the engine, meaning that it is weak (weaker than it should be) in all gears and only becomes exposed by the tall gearing of 5th.