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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    There's some problems with the "technical editorial" on that page. The author goes on about how the 71C is real strong and handles 3L turbos just fine. And it's just not true. I killed the input shaft bearing on 2 of these behind an RB20DET making only ~170rwkW. They just aren't tough enough to handle that sort of torque for very long. I wouldn't even contemplate it behind a 25DET. But otherwise, that's a good find.
  2. GTSBoy
    Cross-sectional area perhaps? Rather than volumetric (which would be in cubic centimeters)? And ugh to anything measured in centimeters. We're not dressmakers! Millimeters or meters. Otherwise what's to stop people using decimeters or decameters in normal conversation?
  3. GTSBoy
    Just to further clarify that - the R in A/R is the radial distance of the location of the nozzle exit from the centreline of the turbine axis. If the highflow job were to include opening up the nozzle at all, then the A would increase, and so would A/R. If the same opening up of the nozzle moved the centroid of the nozzle outward, then R would increase and A/R would decrease. And those effects probably cancel out sufficiently that the change in A/R would be immaterial.
  4. GTSBoy
    There are some caveats to Duncan's advice for cases where the old fuel pump has been losing pressure capability at high flow (as they do when they get old) and the thing was tuned with lower than reg pressure in the high load cells. Then it could go pig rich with the new pump. Better than scary lean though.
  5. GTSBoy
    Most of them are 2 pole. Apparently, some are 4 pole and put out twice as many pulses per rev. I have no idea how common that it. I'd suggest if the gear meshes, you have a better than even chance of it being good.
  6. GTSBoy
    A word of caution. We don't use the word fender here. What you call the fender, we call the guard (well, technically and more fully, the mudguard). We'd call the plastic the guard liner or something similar. Or the fender liner, seeing as we're hit with so much American influence. But I digress. The plastic is concealed. If you look up towards the lip (fender/guard lip), you see metal. The plastic is behind/on top. Exposed plastic is nasty.
  7. GTSBoy
    AFAIK, they are not all one size.
  8. GTSBoy
    And if you don't provide all the input signals that the TCU expects, it will have a sad and throw codes and possibly (probably) limp.
  9. GTSBoy
    Yes, so long as we're talking about the RB20 turbo box and the R33 RB25DE NA box. I cannot promise you that the R32 NA box is the same as these though. It probably is, as again it is effectively the same sort of box as the CA/SR boxes, and almost the same as the 20DET box. They are definitely not all the exact same though. The 20DET box is stronger than the 20DE box, for example, even if it is only a little stronger.
  10. GTSBoy
    I don't know enough about the CA/SR gearboxes. They are very similar to the small RB boxes, but as with all Nissan stuff, there are small and annoying differences everywhere you look. I can say that there is no difference at all between an RB20 turbo and R33/4 NA box. Well, alright, again small differences. I'm pretty sure 3rd gear was a different ratio between R32 turbo and R34 NA boxen (I had both in my car). But the speedo drive (cable, for R32) just goes directly into the R33/4 boxes like it was made to, because it was.
  11. GTSBoy
    Jap 31 or Aussie 31? I didn't think Nissan Japan did any Hall effect speed sensors.
  12. GTSBoy
    I can't imagine a 3-wire speed sensor. They're just (effectively) an electric motor that produces an AC voltage waveform as you spin them. 2 wires that go to the speedo. You should look at the R34 wiring diagrams to see if the auto speed sensor really is a 3 wire.
  13. GTSBoy
    Auto speed sensor won't fit. You will need that speed sensor for that car/gearbox combo, because the pinion gear on the sensor must match/mesh with the one in the box.
  14. GTSBoy
    Coolio. Welcome. Nice Volvo. The in site search is only so-so. Use google to search and point it at sau specifically. Works better for almost every forum site ever.
  15. GTSBoy
    Driven one in a FWD Corolla. Alright, not quite >10k. The Beams engine my bro-in-law just built was super raucous on the dyno. >300° cams, ITBs. 10krpm. Nice noises both - but I still prefer half a v12 to a 3rd of one.
  16. GTSBoy
    Logical fallacy cannot be processed. There is no world in which a 4 cyl engine sounds better than a straight 6. Especially one that sounds like an RB. I mean, I had an ALFA 2L, with better carbies, ram tubes and sock filters and a great exhaust and I thought it sounded awesome. Which it did. For a 4 cyl. All borty. But it was nothing compared to 7500rpm in the Skyline.
  17. GTSBoy
    Buzzy 4-cylinders are obnoxious. I'm with your domestic authority on this one, without even hearing it.
  18. GTSBoy
    Here's some previous threads from this very site. This one didn't resolve very clearly. This one shows the compression situation One where I piped up with the usual comment, and @r32-25t with his ditto, and some other useful tidbits. If it were me doing it (and I might, if I ever have to build my 25, because I have access to a 26 crank if I want it, despite me previously saying that it's hardly worth the effort), I'd just call up Nitto and say, "Hey, here's my plan, what piston can you magic up for me?", and leave it to them to make a nice forgey with the required combo of pin height and crown volume. They probably use the same blanks for all their RB pistons anyway, and just carve out what needs to be carved out as required.
  19. GTSBoy
    Just sounds like a regular weekend at my place. Going to happen this week so I can replace all the sphericals in my FUCAs.
  20. GTSBoy
    It's alright. I think I worked out how to do it. Step 1: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=midnight+purple+r34+gtr&sca_esv=595560758&source=hp&ei=QDKWZY7UD5334-EPvu-gkAk&iflsig=AO6bgOgAAAAAZZZAUEU4vn_dM7U_ciyXXNxLXARErMZf&oq=midnight+purple+R34&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhNtaWRuaWdodCBwdXJwbGUgUjM0KgIIADIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgARI3DpQAFi0KXAAeACQAQGYAYsDoAH0HaoBCDAuMTQuMy4yuAEDyAEA-AEBwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAhEQLhiABBixAxiDARjHARjRA8ICCBAAGIAEGLEDwgILEC4YgAQYxwEY0QPCAg4QLhiABBiKBRixAxiDAcICDhAAGIAEGIoFGLEDGIMBwgIOEC4YgwEYsQMYgAQYigXCAggQLhiABBixA8ICDhAuGIAEGLEDGMcBGNEDwgIUEC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYxwEYrwEYjgXCAg4QLhiABBjHARivARiOBcICCxAuGIAEGMcBGK8BwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAgUQLhiABMICFBAuGIMBGK8BGMcBGLEDGIAEGI4FwgILEC4YgwEYsQMYgATCAggQABiABBjJAw&sclient=gws-wiz Step 2: Imagine this nasty looking thing on it.
  21. GTSBoy
    Why would you ruin R34 GTR wheels by painting them gold? What sort of spam run is this?
  22. GTSBoy
    Don't widebody the front if you're not going to do the rear also. Always looks pox. As to your other Qs.....I got nothing.
  23. GTSBoy
    Haha for real. Imagine the car pivoting around a point under the diff and a point under the front crossmember. Not a pleasant thought. You need at least 3 points on the ground at any time to be stable. A jack and 2 wheels, or a jack and 2 stands, at minimum.
  24. GTSBoy
    So long as you don't try to use them both at the same time!
  25. GTSBoy
    I'm not sure I can understand why the tank hats that are being discussed don't have a double ended female (or male, depending on your point of view) Deutsch connector integrally in the hat, and you just plug the mating connector in on both sides. Effectively a bulkhead fitting for electrons. That way you can wire a new connector onto any new pump, and you can wire the appropriate connector on the car side, and you don't have to explicitly pass anything through the hat (and worry about the sealing), as that is all taken care of.
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