GTSBoy

I'm not sure I can understand why the tank hats that are being discussed don't have a double ended female (or male, depending on your point of view) Deutsch connector integrally in the hat, and you just plug the mating connector in on both sides. Effectively a bulkhead fitting for electrons. That way you can wire a new connector onto any new pump, and you can wire the appropriate connector on the car side, and you don't have to explicitly pass anything through the hat (and worry about the sealing), as that is all taken care of.

Well, that's a problem in itself. If you want to support the car on the jacking points, then you have to lift the car centrally under a subframe or diff, then prop that end with stands under the jacking points. Then you move to the other end and lift it up centrally and do the same. But you can't just ram the thing up into the air by 600mm at one end then go jack up the other, because the silly angles and the changing "grip" of the stand on the jacking point will inevitably lead to the car falling off the stands. So you have to lift a sensible amount at one end, prop it, go do the other end, and go up in bites at each end until it is high enough for what you want/need.

I still make the argument that there is a place for solder flowed into a crimped connection to enhance both the mechanical connection and the electrical connection. Fill the gaps with something conductive and it has to be better at both, without any likely negative effects that I can foresee. It's essentially the same process used for joining (mechanical suspension) cables in bridges and post-tensioned structures, and the like. Put loose cable strands into a constraining container (ie, the crimp connector) and fill with a solid, incompressible matrix that can't be pulled out through the opening. Only in this case the crimp is crushed first to make the intended and hopefully satisfactory connection and the solder is merely belt and braces. This would have to particularly true when pushing the limits where a possible sub-optimal crimped connection could cause a major problem, and the application of a little solder on top could simply sidestep the whole issue. Yeah, but who (apart from OEM industry) actually uses lead free solder? Every hobby electronics guy and electrical tech/maintenance guy I know uses 60/40. If they're at all worried about huffing fumes they use a fan.

I cannot see the difference between that, and this....

Not possible for the spline count to be different and put the wrong one on. Is your hub actually capturing the steering angle sensor drive tab? Not putting it on upside down or otherwise clocked wrongly?

I don't know what Duncan's experience with that problem is, but I struggle to see how you could do it unless you were clumsy. They are designed to lift and support the car.

You're not carrying any motorbike on any sedan towbar. It's a bad idea. Not even feasible, let alone a good idea.

Wot he ^ sed. Better solution....bin the HICAS altogether.

Just coming back to this..... What do you mean by "they can still bend"? Are you talking about the "pinch welds" at the jacking points under the sills? If so, then no. There are 2 defined jacking points on each side. These have solid metal pads to carry the load. The "pinch welds" (god I hate that term) carries NO LOAD. It's all on the designated jacking point. Hockey pucks etc, for use on top of either chassis stands or trolley jacks, are explicitly to apply the load to those hard points and avoid the pinch weld. If they do not do that, then they are not fit for purpose.

https://gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/respons-tms-t9002-adjustable-bias-venting-diverter-valve-bov-detail/ ?

There is now a steady trade in old US iron and also Australian Fords and Holdens (particularly Ford XA-XC hardtops) being remotely bought by cashed up Americans and shipped back to the US. So there is definitely at least one established mechanism in place for sorting out the shipping and paperwork for Oz to US. You might try googling and searching youtube for people showing off their aquisitions from Oz and inquire of them how they managed it. Also, a number of people are shipping cars from Oz to the US to do the various drag and drive events (and putting it up on youtube). Now, these aren't selling and permanently exporting, but they are putting them in containers and sending them, so they will know at least half the story too.

It does read like a spam run.

You're no doubt right. I haven't read Bell's book in >20 years. Coincidentally, the Garrett engineer you mentioned earlier was probably the guy behind the Lott0004 (or something very like it) username on Performance Forums about 20 years ago, and he definitely had things to say about turbine exducer angles, so...I probably conflated them in my mind. And that would perhaps explain Bell's comment about keeping the dump pipe the same size as turbine exit all the way to the main exhaust pipe. It was written nearly 20 years before the Lott0004 files were compiled on PF. The exhaust size guidelines were probably still influenced by the old NA world of trying to "keep velocity up" and the relative lack of availability of bigger exhaust pipe and mufflers for car applications at the time. We have since learnt that you can barely have enough exhaust size for a turbo. More is almost always better (output concerns prioritised over noise, etc). It's about getting the most volume to expand the gas into while still getting it out the back end of the car (otherwise we'd dump it out the bonnet/guard). I don't have too many book reccos. I've only got some old Vizard stuff and the bible on modifying ALFAs.

We have brake specialist shops here in Oz. Just google one or several of them up and send some e-mails? Just don't bother with GSL Rallysport, if you happen to find them. Try ABS Auto (who I know are in Adelaide and are also in other capital cities). Googling "brake repair [capital city]" with the various state capitals will turn up a number of other specialist shops.

This also tells a story about heat sinking. The melted 30A one is just free floating plastic - doesn't lose much heat. The big Bluesea one can be mounted to a steel surface and sink heat out that way, in addition to its likely beefier heat shedding abilities. You can get a long way with thinking about these things in the same way you would for a CPU or other heat sensitive and heat producing electronic jobbie. Adding thermal paste and a place to move the heat to can push the limits on something that would otherwise be inadequate. But I otherwise agree that the internal contacts inside that melted fuseholder must be shit. Must have been making contact in only small patches.

You should be. You're either going to need Neo pistons. This is because the Neo chambers are ~10cc smaller than vanilla 25 chambers, which is about 15% less. Quite a bump in compression.

OK, so the number one danger of inexperienced bleeding is pushing the pedal all the way down, which (depending on the state of the master cylinder bore) can push the MC piston down into an area of the bore that it never normally goes, where crud is built up, which can tear up the piston seals, leading to a recirculating/failed MC. So, put a piece of wood on the floor under the pedal to stop it at about the max travel it normally sees. Then the next peril, which can come from the same over-actuation, is damage to the booster. I wouldn't normally worry about it, but your report of a hissing noise suggests that you might have wrecked a seal in there too.

Well, you can see where the connector has been running very hot, but at least the terminal inside is not burnt up. This (the high current drawn by the headlights) is the reason that I always recommend inserting relays into the circuit just behind the headlights, with a nice fat power wire from the fusebox/battery (fused if direct from battery, of course) - to get the high current away from all these switches. Note that the connector you're holding is not what I meant about disassembling the switch. I mean pull the switch apart. It's not difficult, but don't be rough or ham fisted because you can fling the internals all over the place if you are. Get it apart, inspect and clean and lube with a little dielectric grease on the pivots and where the plastic rubs on the moving contact rockers.

I wouldn't expect to be able to find a "kit". That is far too American a way of going about things, and it generally applies only to enthusiast grade gear, and the sliding calipers are definitely not enthusiast grade. That is why I suggested taking it to a brake shop. Because they will have catalogues and cross references to other Nissan/Jap crap and will be able to source seals and clips and shims and so on. Plus do the work to repair the bores or rechrome the pistons (or source new ones, depending) if required. This will be 70millionX more effective than trying to find a "kit", which I am damn sure will not exist.

At least it's right side up! Shit time of year for things like this, heh? I'm running on half my house's GPOs, because I have a fault in the wiring on one circuit and the electricians are all on holiday. Just put a for sale sign on it and walk away? It might be a better outcome.

Go through this lot, comparing arm part numbers with equivalent pages for other cars (ie R34) and see if they are same enough. https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan/cedric/10-sedan-right-y34-1999-1317/chassis-and-transmission-7/rear-suspension-chassis-538

Yeah, you need the right rotors to go with the 4 pot calipers and the rotors are all drilled 5 stud. You can buy blanks (sometimes, if you know how, and are lucky) and get them drilled to whatever pattern you want, but I suspect that this is not your path forward here, as you would also need to be changing the MC, and the hoses, and so on. If you were in Oz I would just tell you to take it to a local brake workshop and get them to rebuild the calipers. They should be able to source the required parts, rechrome pistons if required, etc etc. If you were in some other buttfack country it might be difficult to make such a recommendation because there probably is no such thing as a brake workshop/chain in many such places. As you're in Fl, I have no idea what the mechanical landscape for specialist automotive looks like, but I would be horrified to hear that it had all disappeared from the landscape. So, go find the brake equivalent of Midas and let them do it.

It's impossible to see/say what the deal with the chassis rail is. It's no biggie if it needs to be cut out and new metal folded up to replace it. It's just a lot of work. Can be uneconomic to repair if it's an insurance job, but when it is being done for lover, it is perfectly doable. But as I said, impossible to see what it is. The "A pillar" damage, I presume is the bit that worries you the most. Looks like it would all be beatable. But it would likely take someone with the knack to get it straight and true, so that everything is in the right place and the door doesn't start hanging funny, etc.

From what they say, the pedal weight should be less than most comparably rated clutches. So.... perhaps you shouldn't worry? The lower end of their range is supposed to be stock pedal weight or lighter, and the race end is supposed to be "surprisingly light", from what I gathered from (likely) the same vids.

Yeah, completely valid point. I was just trying to answer the other half of the question. I'm pretty sure that the R34 NA boxes were pull clutch, because I put one such box in my R32 without any need to juggle clutch types.