GTSBoy

The pictures are a little confusing. 1. I was under the impression that GT4s did not have traction control. So why do you have a traction control throttle body on your crossover pipe? 2. Ditto, Stageas, even turbo Stageas, do not have TCS either. 3. What engine loom are you using? The original car's, or the one that came with the engine? Are you sure the one that came with the engine is actually from that engine? See question 2.... There are 2x grey loom plugs on that part of the engine. One is on the loom and clicks onto the Neo's boost sensor at the rear of the cam/coil covers. The other hangs off the traction control motor (front side of the crossover pipe, down low) and runs left and forward to a bank of 3x loom plugs located at the front end of the plenum. But depending on the provenance of your loom and the engine and that crossover pipe, you might not have everything. You certainly have things you shouldn't.

235/45-17 were 320ea fitted 14 months ago. It hurt, but not what I would call eye watering. And I could certainly not get RS4s for half that, even had I wanted to go back to them and their painful road noise in the last 50% of tread depth.

My vote is for my current tyre. AD09. I'm at about 10k in and they're gong to last another.....5. I've killed a set of tyres at 8k before.

Boost leak or exhaust leak. Boost could be from anywhere, including manifold/plenum gaskets. Exhaust is frequently head to manifold gasket or from manifold to turbo gasket. Often caused by missing nuts or broken studs.

Check for spacers on the front, in case they've been pushed out a little to try to match he rears better.

Meh, maybe the JSAI ones are FG not CF. But, given that I'm not convinced any of these look any good, it hardly matters.

JustJap sell CF underskirts like that.

When stationary/slow....yes. When going fast, no. High pressure builds at the base of the windscreen and will either inhibit or reverse the flow.

I have S15 helical too. It is a bit worn. I think the drive behaviour you describe is related to this wear. Wear of helicals is something that no-one seems to have paid a lot of attention to, but now that they (as in original Nissan ones) are all a bit old - we're starting to see the consequences. The ends of the helical spurs wear into the casing. That's where they perform the braking that diverts torque. Some of the more modern helical designs have proper wear surfaces introduced there, but the Nissan ones are just steel on steel (or iron).

You should Nistune the ECU, so you have freedom to use modern injectors instead of replacing with the same old shit. This is also required if you want to boost it up above ~200rwkW, where the stock injectors will be running out of capacity. Having said that, it is unlikely that the injectors need replacing just 'coz. If you imported it from Japan, the fuel should have been pretty good quality for the whole life of the car.

The pedal and pedal box (everything inside the car) will be the same for all manual R32s. There might be a caveat for the GTR pedal in that the rod that pokes through the firewall is supposed to connect to the input side of a vacuum booster, not direct into the clutch master cylinder. Therefore, your safest bet is a clutch pedal from a GTSt. Good luck finding on these days though. All the manual conversions were done 20 years ago.

I think he meant Haltech meant that the Haltech PDM doesn't like driving loads with PWM. Not that the pumps don't like it. Think about the heatsinks that we strap onto SSRs for just handling a single PWM load. Then picture how much heatsinking is visible on a Haltech ECU or PDM. None, right? So it's no surprise that they don't want to run PWM loads directly.

I think the PDM outputs (the ones that can actually output big power) are not intended to be driven like that. They're either on or off, switched only at a low rate. To do PWM you need to use an ECU output that is PWM friendly (ie, able to be run at high frequency) and drive a separate SSR, instead of trying to thrash the (presumably) SSRs in the PDM.

Not in Australia.

It's not that expensive for what it does. It is a programmable thingo that allows you to do a wide range to tasks. It is expensive compared to just buying the bits needed to add an SSR into the fuel pump control. And, given that you have an ECU that should be capable of doing teh actual control, all you really need is an SSR (and heatsink), and some wiring anyway.

Just take the headlight housing out.

Should run up to about 6 or so at high revs. But the stock oil pressure gauge is a piece of shit and can't be trusted, so make few to no decisions based on what you see it do.

Yes. On the inner end of the LCA, where the bush and mounting bolt go through. This is where the car carries the weight transfer between the suspension and the body already. Best place.

That is an H1 headlight globe. Not a parker. 55W, quartz halogen.

Spokey doke.

That's not a parking light globe. That is a main headlight globe. You've touched it (the quartz envelope) with your fingers and now it's f**ked, so you have to buy replacement for that too.

Don't do this unless it never gets hot where you are.

See if you can power it up on the bench.

Yuh, which is why I said it is "flywheel minus drivetrain losses", which is essentially exactly what it is. Presuming you might lose up to 10% (for real) in the drivetrain, you get somewhat closer to flywheel power with a hub dyno than what you measure on roller when you are losing that same drivetrain loss PLUS the somewhat larger tyre-roller loss. Inertia can be discounted when measuring steady state, which remains an option with either type (unless stupid US inertia roller type, which should never have existed).

With the obvious caveat that hub dynos are not telling you rw power. They are telling you flywheel power minus drivetrain losses. The largest losses in power readings at the wheel are, of course, at the tyre-roller interface.