GTSBoy

I'm not an admin here. Just seem to be always in front of a computer. The different fuel thing is an additional confusion. If it were just a bit short on ethanol content, it really shouldn't cause you to lose boost and make less power. If anything, because it would be more likely to ping, it should make more power - for a little while. And if it were 98 by accident, it really should ping, although it would be as rich as hell, so there's competing mechanisms there. The MT is not smart enough to do anything about knock, so it should all just happen without any reaction. I'd expect smoke, either way. A high idle does make it sound like something is open, or just perhaps (and worse), something broken. How much boost is missing? 16ish psi on the dash. Is that normal? I have just had a thought. Possibly a fuel related problem could have caused high exhaust temps, could have collapsed the cat. That would slow it down while still allowing boost to show normal.

Could be open upstream or downstream of the TB. Depends on whether the MT's boost tapping is upstream or downstream. Should be DS, but I've seen stupider things done than hooking it up before the TB.

There needs to be a full aluminium restobody for S30s. They're doing it for old porkas and the like.

Consider an amber LED ring/strip inside the parker light section of the actual headlight housing?

Kings lows go over the pits at Regency just fine. Well.... I must stipulate that I have them on B6s with extra circlip grooves cut in, to provide more height adjustment, and I set them to 345/355mm (on an R32) before I went in.

What are the visibility (angle) and colour rules for indicators in Bulgaria?

For anything more than 50% of stock power, yes.

He was talking about the tyres I listed, not those frightening teflon shitters that you posted.

So, given the code for the coolant sensor, what have you done to diagnose that?

Who the f**k are Valino Tyres? Run something decent, like AD09, RS4, etc. Something with ~180TW is good for the street without being too sketchy in the wet. I flog my car in the wet. You also need a proper LSD.

That's a diesel.

Needed for a bizarre reason? Or just need to get over the pits at Regency? Because, if the latter, then you don't actually need either factory dampers or factory height. You can get over with any aftermarket damper and Kings low (or equivalent springs). Bilstein B6s are even base height adjustable. You can move the lower spring perch up and down with the circlips and grooves. And you can buy Kings springs (and equivalents) at "factory" height. More or less. Which, on an R33, looks terrible. Like a fat lady on stilts. Not an aesthetic choice I would make.

I think he meant turbo surge. You won't have surge problems from turning the boost down. Outright inefficiency maybe, from running off the island, but not surge.

Define expensive. My idea of expensive is genuine G30 or EFR pricing. Like $4k. If you're talking ~<$2k, to align with your other OP prices, then.... none of that is "expensive".

Example?

No. The boost gauge is connected to the little boost log/plenum that is connected downstream of the throttles. The two functions are totally different. The boost control is for what the turbo is doing. So you have to measure what the turbo is doing, so you have to measure upstream of the throttle(s). The boost gauge is for what the engine is doing. You want to know what the inlet manifold pressure is, which is the pressure that the engine is experiencing. You have to measure that after the throttle(s).

But is it a "good turbo", in comparison to actual, modern, good turbos? I mean, compressor and turbine aerodynamic design has moved on a LOT since then.

I would have thought the R32 GTR wiring diagram would be close enough. It also serves for GTS4, and is therefore close enough to GTSt, and there cannot be that many body side differences between any of those and the NA cars. I posted decent scans of them a year or so ago.

Which Garrett dealer is selling them for those moneys?

Those aren't Garrett prices.

Yeah. Nissan manual for Nissan dealer workshops to minimise labour costs on services. Mind you, they were planning for an evantuality that wasn't needed on about 99% of all Neo engines ever made. Like all Jap engines of the era, valve train components don't wear. You can put a file on the cam lobe of a typical Toyota engine from the 80s and 90s and metal just melts away. Yet they never wear in service (provided they are, in fact, serviced!). I still think it would be easier to just lift the bloody cams.

Blue is the vent. This is where the air that is released via the solenoid flows away. It is connected to the turbo inlet, so that it remains metered by the AFM(s) (and for emissions reasons, as there are rules about releasing engine gases to atmosphere). The plenum is turbo pressure because you have ITBs. The plenum is upstream of the throttles, therefore the plenum is always at whatever boost pressure is at the turbo outlet (minus pressure drop from forcing a large amount of air through smallish pipes and an intercooler).

Yes, but....surely it is easier to just lift the cams? It's not as if it takes a degree in massage therapy to re-time the cams, especially if you put effort into constraining the belts so it stays put at the bottom.

The world isn't only RB26. If I were to hook up a hose, I would have had to poke a hole into my turbo inlet pipe and weld on a nipple, because that's the only sensible place to send the vented signal air to. And....I didn't feel like doing that much extra work when I fitted the boost controller. My previous boost controller was a pneumatic regulator based unit on an RB20. There was no venting, so my turbo inlet had no port on it for receiving vented air. And RB20s never had any boost control of any sort anyway.

Hrm. If you hadn't said it was being driven around I would have said it would be in parts by now. Hopefully the dipshits are not very bright dipshits and keep driving it around.