GTSBoy

There's ways that this logic doesn't work. If you lower the boost and still try to pump the same mass rate of air, then, depending on where you were on the compressor map originally on the smaller motor, you can find yourself wandering right over to the RHS of the map and giving up 15% or more efficiency. Start pumping hot air, overspeeding, etc etc. This is the same concept as the couple of posts in other turbo threads where a turbo that was expected to go real well didn't, on 3L and 3.2L engines. Just not a good match because of the shape of the comp map.

Meh. I dunno. I haven't got my old calcs with me here to know what I did for things like head gasket, etc. Those old calcs might not even exist, as I may not have saved them. If I do a rough calc now (86mm bore, 71.7 stroke, 51.5cc DET chamber volume) and don't allow for the gasket gap (1mm, equivalent to 5.8cc at 86mm bore diameter), then the CR comes out to 9.1:1, which is spot on the "known" RB25DET CR. If I do allow for the gasket gap on top of the 51.5cc chamber, then the CR drops to 8.25:1. So....does the gasket gap already get taken into consideration in the chamber volume? It looks like it might. So, given that it might, and that when I neglect it, I get the exact right DET CR, let's just ignore the gasket gap and continue. There's another factor though, which is the dome on the piston. The DET chamber is "known" to be 51.5cc, and if the DE chamber is "known" to be 52, then they are almost exactly the same, and could well be the same. In which case, the difference in the resulting CR between them has to come down to the size of the dome. The DE dome would be taller, and would result in a smaller effective chamber volume compared to the DET. (And the DET dome probably explains away the gasket gap problem). So, given that I have no information on the dome sizes, we just have to work backwards from the 10.2: CR to work out what the effective DE chamber volume has to be. It will be smaller than 52. Just throwing smaller chamber volumes at the original calc, with no gasket gap included, shows that the effective DE chamber volume is ~45cc. That's 7cc smaller than the "actual, known" DE chamber size. So, subtract that 7cc from the 62cc of a vanilla DET head's chamber, giving 55cc, and then run that calc forward again with 55c, and...... CR pops out at ~8.6. Your 8.2-8.3 is not that far away from what I got, but both calcs are likely full of crap. I would say somewhere between 8.2 and 8.6 seems very likely though.

This excellent double entendre appears to have been missed by all.

Yeah, nah. Everything attached to the head moves up. So turbo in and out + cooler pipework on both ends needs to be edited. Plus, on an R32 (not the case here, because R33) it's almost impossible to fit under the bonnet without doing undesirable things. A little easier on R33, but still.....stuff you have to do.

At least there's no rotational movement in a subframe or diff bush to cause them to gall up. They just sit there static.

A rather extreme form of block grouting? And ironically - yes. We have an epoxy supplier that I buy buckets of different sorts of epoxies from, for various purposes. You kinda have to open a vein though.

I put OEM rubber subframe bushes into my car when I did the non-HICAS subframe swap more than a decade ago. I really wish I'd put in something firmer.

Only a few mm. Perhaps even less if looking to feel it from the rack itself. As felt from the steering wheel, less than ~10mm of slop at the wheel rim.

There's no problem with poly subframe bushings. GKTech, and many others, also have them. Don't be fooled by Nismo anything. There is little to no difference between a Nismo suspension bush or engine mount and the stocker that originally cost 1/3 the price.

Golf tee jammed in it with a bit of tape to hold it in. Small rubber or plastic cap the right size to go over the outside (from your collection of same that you've got in an ice cream container that you've been collecting for the last 10 years for this sort of purpose). Brake line clamps (like medical artery clamps) if you've still got rubber lines. Let the brake fluid all fall out because you're going to fully change the fluid and bleed it afterward anyway?

Not conclusive proof that the turbine is still there, but would seem less likely to have lost one.

8 years! That's positively new compared to some thread dredges.

And no, you cannot use the wrong size. 310 only for 34GT-T.

So, I can point you towards; Block 1. RB25 NA. Missing #1 piston and rod, but what is there is all healthy. Block 2. RB20DET. Ignore. Block 3. RB25DE Neo. As new. Ex Demo, almost zero mileage. No pistons and rods. I have touched the bores in this and they are really virginal. Well, except the one I put my fist into. Block 4. RB25DET. No crank or rods/pistons. Engine number has been XXX'd out. Block 5. RB25DE. Complete with sump and oil pump (I think). Apparently looks very good. He also has 23 others that he can't get to at the moment, so not clear on the details. There are also multiple R33 heads and one Neo headed 3L. Can put you in touch. All this stuff is in SA.

It's not so much Nismo's fault. It happens. I just replaced my clutch for exactly the same reason. It got out of balance as it wore.

I'm with him ^ but I wouldn't keep stock upper arms at either end of the car. Adjustable length arms needed. Otherwise park it and never drive it. Oh, and another small difference in his HICAS recommendation. Total elimination is better than a lock bar. Keep all the stock bits you remove in the shed, and give the box to the buyer when you dispose of your investment in 3 years.

That might be why it looks like there's more wrap on the spokes. There's less spoke. If you like that sort of thing. However, consider - black looks equally good as the below on silver cars.

For good driving, upgrade everything, For retaining "purity", upgrade nothing. I think purity is stupid. The cars will eventually become museum pieces. Do not consider what you are doing to the "purity" or the "value" when making these decisions.

I don't really know if the NeoDE head is the same volume as the DET. It could be. It would only take a tiny bit more piston dome to pump the comp up. I could do a bunch of quick and dirty calcs to come up with speculative numbers for CR with 33 head on NeoDE bottom end, but they'd be about as good as a random number generator. One thing that is true is that the 33 head on NeoDET bottom end is no damn good. There's an extra 11 or 12 cc in the head, and that's a big drop. If there is any commonality in the NeoDE and DET heads, then the difference is all in the piston and maybe a 33 head on NeoDE block would come out alright. But if the difference is in the head, then....likely be a low compression failure, same as the first sentence in this paragraph.

What you can achieve with pineapple rings is about 2/5ths of f**k all. I've had them in in all orientations and couldn't tell much difference.

My thoughts: Consider KW also. Top notch Euro suspension with USA presence. Whiteline for sure. 2 or 3 way adjustable at each end gives you ability to tweak under/oversteer behaviour. Suspension bits. FUCAs: None of those are any bloody good. Rigid FUCAS on R32s just suck. I use and recommend the GKTech ones. They.....kindaa require regular rebuilds though. Every couple of years. But that's on my daily doing 10000km/yr. If yours is a weekender, they ill last far longer. Tension rods. Anything will do, so long as they have spherical joints. I have Tein, just 'coz. But would use anything that's not 3rd shift 6th factory yum-cha manufacture. GKTech do these also. - - There are points to be made about these in the arms points. I use and recommend Hardrace (which are a decent quality yumcha brand) with harder rubber bushes. If I were happy to use spericals here, I'd use GKTech here too. I'm thinking that I am going to need to use the GKTechs with sphericals here too, because I want to install GKTech's front lower pickup relocation to reduce Nissan's shitty anti-squat geometry. And....you cannot use that without spherical joints on the lower arm, because it twists the front of the arm down and that's not good for the rear bush. Same as 6. Do a search on here for the many many words I have already written on getting the adjustment of these right to prevent adding shit tons of bump steer to your car. Any good delete will do. cheers

T3 housing would seem the smart approach. Have you tried to clock the compressor housing so the outlet points in a useful direction? Will that work with the wastegate actuator location?

I feel attacked!

Thanks for the offers JDose. My bro-in-law is my mechanic and will sort me out for bits and pieces. He can get Xspurts at v.good prices. R35 AFM is on the list. I already have a 3" tube adapter for it to go in the stock AFM location. Just need to cut out a flange from ally plate and TIG it on (It's currently bare tube at both ends). With the injectors, because the ECU is Nistuned, I won't be going as big as 1000s, so we're thinking 525 - 725cc is the go. The smaller the better for not making the old Hitachi ECU bumble and fart at idle. 525s will almost certainly do for me, as I won't be getting near that much power. Realistically though, I'm reasonably confident that it will idle nice even with the 725s. I'll be lucky to do more than 250rwkW through my return flow cooler. That'll be more than enough powerz for how I use it. I'll probably tap out the old 040 fuel pump also. Need to fix the dyno first though. It had a shit fit and it is a reeeeeeeally old DD, with the analogue control board. So it's not supported by DD anymore and we have to recalibrate the Ouija board so we can make contact with the right spirit/demon to get help for it.

It won't be fun if one of the turbines has come off. But it could be the cause.