GTSBoy

Besides which. If you have a Haltech waiting - don't waste your time and effort and money trying to get the boost sensor. Just f**k the stock ECU off and put the Haltech in. Then you won't need the boost sensor.

It really should. But because you made the mistake of not wiring up a compulsory (compulsory to to the stock ECU, that is) sensor, there's no telling if there are other things wrong or not. What do you mean? You obtain the correct sensor (only the OEM one will do, you can't just go get any pressure sensor), and wire it in. One wire will be power from somewhere, one wire will go to that ECU pin. The wiring diagram will show you what needs to be done. There's not going to be a tutorial on something as rare as this.

Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.

That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?

Well, if it was acting like a real bitch when the weather was cold, real cold, and if it is acting less bitchy now that it is not so cold, then it would appear to be linked to how much enrichment the ECU is giving as a function of temperature. I mean, it might not. It might be something else. But it certainly seems like a place to look.

Look to cold enrichment then?

See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.

That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.

This could be sold and shipped to the US for many gold pieces. RMS has no say in that. Ask various Western Sydney inhabitants how it works.

Can't see that being a thing.

I think it's the same. It all comes from the same shithole refinieries in SE Asia.

E10, by very definition, has 10% E in it.

2 things. 1. If you're going to buy a ball joint puller/pusher tool that is not advertised as being for the purpose you intend to use it for, then it is up to you to make sure, either before you buy, or after you first try (and possibly fail) that it will work for that task. 2. WTF? Putting HICAS balljoints back into a car implies retaining HICAS, which is just....dumb. HICAS can lick my left one.

After cleaning the contacts in the remote, if it has rubber carbon pads on the buttons, give them a little wipe with a 2B pencil to add some fresh carbon back. Just a little wipe. Not too much.

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Turm it all the way over and send a photo to Morgs?

This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.

Greg, you are the reason you cannot have nice things.

But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!

Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.

Should be OK with the right lube.

If that were true, you wouldn't have either of your kidneys by now.

Possibly, but you know that these are what I'm talking about, yeah? They might not suit!

Or take the car to your local TAFE and ask the body building lecturers which of their 4th year apprentices needs a decent project to make something to go there. That's how my dad got all 4 guards for his '24 Dodge made. Granted, he was a lecturer at the TAFE at the time! But not in body building. No favours needed to be exchanged, because they're always looking for good projects for talented apprentices to take on.

Just use the holes to mount a flowing fake moustache?