GTSBoy

Yup. GTR is 32mm. Plain R33 is 30mm. Caveat being that the 324mm rotors on the Brembos go back to 30mm also. Makes it confusing and you need absolute clarity when talking about these brakes. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that a 32mm rotor is not a good fit in the GTST caliper. I think they might actually be different (the calipers, that is).

When you say "stock struts", you don't mean actual OEM Nissan struts do you? You actually mean some suitable aftermarket strut? In which case; A KYB twin tube will be as comfortable, or better than the originals. They work well with a Kings Low, which are only moderately stiffer than stock springs. A good aftermarket coilover, from say, MCA, will make the Tiens feel like the hay cart suspension that they are. On the subject of the horn..... Look at the wiring diagram. Work out where the wire that is shorting to earth is, and fix it.

Wotcha mean? Take an ECU out of one car and put it into another near identical car and....problem?

You can also make your own poly bushes if you have the inner and outer crush tubes and the willingness to buy and mix the urethane in the durometer that you're after.

Here's one for sale on Scumtree with poly bushes already in it. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/jane-brook/brakes-suspension/nissan-skyline-hr31-banana-suspension-frame-ploy-eurethane-bushed/1313707280

Are the 370 arms the same? https://au.gktech.com/products/z34-370z-front-upper-camber-arms-fuca-s?_pos=47&_fid=55edfc4af&_ss=c

The existence of replaceable bushes means no mechanic should be afraid to swap them. Sometimes the work to remove the old ones is bit heavy and time consuming. But that's just money to bill you.

Yes, you want the 3076 with 0.82. Your FFP will hold back the boost response (torque) nicely.

Oh, they've always been discontinued. If'n'when stock turns up it's because someone has found a few boxes of NOS in a warehouse somewhere.

But if you buy the car you also get the spare sparkplugs.

It would seem to me that if there is sufficient meat on that idler, then machining a couple of mm off its diameter would help? Or, per my original suggestion, can you do something about the alignment of the mount to the front of the engine to lift it up vertically a little? Or a little of both? Or, a smaller diameter idler to replace that one?

defo needed to bleed.

I normally report the bots rather than getting sucked in by them. There was something about this one though....Aroused the need to kill.

Nah. Most GTSt are amber. Typical examples You do see some with the clears. I've never really bothered to work out why they exist. It might be that it's the early GTSts (like '89-90) that had clears. The various adverts for genuine clear indicators say that they only fit GTSt guards, not GTR. Nearly 20 years ago this was something of a hot topic!

Nah, I got to go off at hattori hanzo as well, so I probably come out even.

f**king kÜnts that drive decatted anything on the streets, let alone f**king 3500 series trucks spewing diesel soot all over the place can all go and f**k themselves and their sisters. And anyone who supports their right to do so can pull their pants down and wait in line too.

Put the f**king catalytic converter back on it and stop being a f**king retard.

Of course. That's the difference between say, 7 L/100km and 10 L/100km. Or any similar ratio. It is easy to use 15 L/100km in stop start traffic and use half that at 80km/h steady.

Obvs they should both, semi-independently, flick back and forth between about 0V and 1V, at least when the engine is running in closed loop mixture control. It may not want to idle in closed loop, because at idle the sensors can be too cold to work properly. They become lazy and usually read very low. The ECU disregards them and just runs open loop. They can also act like that if their internal heaters fail. If they are old, it is a fair bet that either one or both heaters have failed or they are otherwise old and sick. they do not last forever. It is also possible that the wiring is borked in some fashion.

It shouldn't normally be much of a problem. But, add high crankcase pressure to a moderately worn set of valve guides and you can get a bit going through. Valve stem seals used to be (mainly, in the mostly NA days) a throttle off thing, where the high vacuum in the cylinders would pull oil through the worn guides. Now, we have mucho boosto to help and we can get it on throttle.

Geez. It's almost worth buying your shitbox to get that stuff!

As per Johnny Turkey Gobble above, it was not the filter change. I would suggest high crankcase pressure caused oil to be blown through the valve guides when under boost. Oil in the mixture = reduced octane = detonation.

I refer you to...

I think you missed the point of what I said. You would need to be driving around a right-hand curve at the same time as measuring with the multimeter to prove this. What I said was: with emphasis added, for, you know, emphasis.

6 yr thread dig? C'mon. You can do better than that. There's much older threads available.