GTSBoy

So, either you've got fuel surge exposing the suction on the new pump, or you've fouled up the wiring so that it is shorting or going open circuit under that G load. Pull the pump back out and look at what you've got.

Eurgh. It gets worse. Looks like I also have to spend unsexy money on a new clutch. I haven't thrown a side strap off one in 10 or 11 years. But here we are again. I suspect that I won't get a free replacement this time.

Well, I clearly don't like the spending, and no matter what it's made out of, a tailshaft is not sexy. I shall likely just have to grit my teeth and do it.

Yeah. I fear I am going to have to do the same. I don't have a massive problem with parting with cash. But would obviously prefer to spend on something sexier.

These thing do not exist. You would have to handmake any and all of them. Except brakes. Better brakes are heavier, not lighter.

What/who is the go to for replacing uni joints on these things these days? I understand that Hardy Spicers will do them for..... a largish sum of money. Is there a hack for this that people know about that I don't?

If it's just a VLSD, you could throw it back together with a handful of sand and two broken bastard files and it would still work as good as it ever did. If the pinion shaft hasn't been pulled out of it, there's no science in putting one back together. Shimming a VLSD is the equivalent of the sand and the files anyway, so who cares? TT, put it back together yourself. Give it a spin. It'll likely be fine as. If it turns out to be noisy, then you go looking for qualified alternatives. FWIW though, If you're a diff/trans specialist, you do not need to know anything about R200s to set up an R200. They are no different to any other diff.

LOL. I nearly spat my coffee.

The Stag is a heavy bitch so it's hard to argue against bigger brakes. You might as well fit the Brembos and sell the Sumitomos. The bigger rotors will be more resistant to fade. The calipers are....a little bit nicer too. Should be lighter.

Get the wiring diagram.

"Checked relays and fuses"..... does that mean you broke out the multimeter and probed the connector on the back to ensure that power and earth are actually present on the unit itself? Checking fuses is only the very first step in the process.

Fixed your post a bit. Decreased the size of the incorrect info, because there is no strikethrough format available in the post editor. The ceramic turbine breaks, not the compressor wheel. And the turbine fragments very seldom have caused engine damage on a single turbo RB. The damage you speak of is pretty strictly an RB26 problem. This is because the 26 exhaust manifolds allow a short and straight shot at the exhaust ports. The single turbo manifolds just don't do that.

I may have spoken too soon. I had assumed that the usual suspects (GKTech) would have them for later Stageas, like they do for R chassis. But doesn't look like it. You might need to look further afield. cheers

Ever heard of drop knuckles? A much better idea than setting up the geometry to just totally suck.

I'm not in the market, but I would choose the newer base model over the older V-spec for the same money. As Joshua says, there's little on the V-spec that would survive my need to piss off the A-LSD, and the various other upgrades that would happen. It pays to remember that a stock GTR, even in V-spec form, is not super exciting. They need mods to be proper fun to drive. If the fun instead is in having an unmodified car with a particular type of badge, then I can't align with those sorts of priorities. The ridiculous prices being applied to these cars are only a distraction. They're still the same dirty old Datto that they were in the 90s and early 00s. The prices can't last. All petrol engined cars that are not museum quality are doomed to become valueless. The hope of trying to keep one pristine but still driving it is a nonsense. It's a car. Designed to do one job. It should do that job, or be in a museum. There is no halfway house that makes sense.

You probably can't do it reliably. But you can either; a) get lucky and somehow get it right, or b) get it wrong and not notice.

Goleby's don't generally mess about with shit quality stuff.

Haha. I was just about to say "it expired how?". Because it's still good. Glad to help and not have to help again! cheers

@Dose Pipe Sutututu You're such a poser.

Nah, the actual hinge. With the fold in the middle, which is broken on yours too. Which is why I said it would be a bit tricky to print. The original has a kinda deliberate weak point in it to act as the hings, but it's solid moulded as one piece. I made my replacement by scoring a piece of sheet plastic with a knife, but it only lasted a few years of very infrequent use.

Unless you're planning to turn 11ty rpm, there's no need to spend on jewellery like Ti retainers. If you're flush with cash, go ahead. It's good for the insta-likes.

No, but cheap Chinese shit where they simply don't care how good it actually is, just that it looks like it can replace the original one, is just the way of the world with parts like that.

Yeah, but when it's happening at 60+ km/h, good luck trying to get a recording that we can hear anything over the wind roar.

That's nice. Mostly tidy. Some work to do here and there. Bit of a tidy up in the engine bay, for example. That Personal wheel is interesting. Looks v.similar to a Momo (specifically the Momo on mine). Just with a little bit more wrap on the spokes. The steel part looks like it came out of the same factory. As to road wheels..... consider Enkeis, particularly RPF1, if wanting a good looking wheel that is v. light and won't break the bank even if buying genuine. I am not a fan of reproduction wheels. Mystery Chinese manufacture is not something I am going to give a lot of trust to. Also consider that R32s look better on 17s than on 18s. Also consider that black wheels look f**king hot on white and silver cars, and white spokes look pox on anything other than black or red cars.

mebbe