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GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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RD28->RB28 conversion, Offsetground crank
GTSBoy replied to Isacnr77's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Just buy billet crank? -
Yes. Probs regulator. Take to an auto sparky and get it checked. Might be an easy fix.
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Well, a big chamber at whatever pressure the turbo inlet duct is at, which can be anywhere from atmospheric to a moderate level of suction. Remember, you do not want low pressure between your air filter and your turbo because that is stretching out the air available for the turbo to ingest. Any lower pressure than atmospheric at the turbo inlet works against the pressure ratio that the turbo is able to create. PR2 when you start at 14.7 psi is >29 psi (absolute), which is a whole 14.7 psi of boost. PR2 when you start at only 13 psi is suddenly only 26 psi (absolute). Subtract the 14.7 psi of the outside air from that and you only have 11.3 psi of boost.
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R33 can someone tell me what viper skyline means
GTSBoy replied to Swissta's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's worse than that, in that it has something a little bit silly on the compliance plate, as if the importer had something to do with that model of car being produce by Nissan. Which, of course, they didn't. Most other imported Skylines just (correctly) say that they are Nissan Skylines on their compliance plates. So it is rare, just not in a desirable way! -
CAM Timing fluctuating on Idle (Sometimes)
GTSBoy replied to Skaith4224's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Turn it down further. Make the ECU use more of the available IACV capacity to achieve it. Better to run in the middle of the range than at one end. -
RB26 rear block water connector - how to remove?
GTSBoy replied to joshuaho96's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
And that was supposed to be 50% too. Bloody typos. -
RB26 rear block water connector - how to remove?
GTSBoy replied to joshuaho96's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I should post up the photos of a 12" flange where the knuckle dragging mechanical fitter put RTV in a zig-zag line running inboard, then outboard, of every other bolt around the flange. 100 kPa gas pressure inside had no difficulty finding its way to the 5% of bolt holes with no RTV between them and the gas pipe. And that's before you realise that you don't even need or want RTV on such a flange unless it is quite severely deformed in fabrication. -
CAM Timing fluctuating on Idle (Sometimes)
GTSBoy replied to Skaith4224's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It is.....in dirt rally. -
The bolt spacing for the caliper to the knuckle should be the same, but I reckon that the brick has 12mm bolts and the Akebonos have 14mm threads in them. That means you either need to the drill the holes in the knuckles or knock the inserts out of the calipers and put in some 12mm ones - which is not for the faint hearted or those without the necessary resources. If you have to ask what those resources are, guess which category you're in.
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CAM Timing fluctuating on Idle (Sometimes)
GTSBoy replied to Skaith4224's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Only on RB26. Do you want to tell us which engine? -
RB20DE NEO accelaration/cruising "problem"
GTSBoy replied to Kapr's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's Nissan Consult. -
CAM Timing fluctuating on Idle (Sometimes)
GTSBoy replied to Skaith4224's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yeah, but it can recirculate "too far". As in, it goes back up the inlet and registers on the AFM again, going the wrong way, thus double metering, and not being any good. This is one of the main reasons that the factory Nissan systems used a compressor bypass valve in the first place. As in, the highest that you can command? Well, yes, but the IACV, if stuck open, can flow more than enough air to rev a lot higher than that. You should probably clean the throttle body and the IACV with carby cleaner. Might make it all behave a little nicer. IACV will want to be dismantled to achieve the best cleaning results. -
Let's just say that it is probably more "worth it" now than it has even been. Given the relative unavailability of GTTs and the elevated prices for them if you can find one for sale, doing the work required to turbo an NA car is not as financially silly as it used to be. It's still financially silly. Just not as bad as it used to be. Better option is still to do what Greg did. Put an LS in it. Or put a VQ37 in it (if you can handle the obscene noise they make). Add valley mounted intercooled supercharger for boostiness without needing to plumb up turbos. Hopefully add some more tasteful noise to drown out the exhaust too.
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RB26 rear block water connector - how to remove?
GTSBoy replied to joshuaho96's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
You don't need an OEM document. You need the Australian Standard AS 5601, and the technical bulletins issued by Energy Safe Victoria, Building and Energy Western Australia, their equivalents in all the other states (who generally just look to ESV for guidance because ESV usually get to the correct technical outcomes before anyone else, and who are supremely technically competent as gas safety regulators). Something to remember about gas safety. In the US there is NFPA 86, created by the NFPA of course, and policed......by......nobody. At least the Canadian standards are a bit better enforced. My company did the flames for the Vancouver winter olympics, including all the controls and pipework and burners. I know what it's like to get stuff approved in Canada. But Australia? It is like no other place in the world. AS 3814 is widely recognised, amongst people who are aware of many international gas appliance standards (ie NFPA 86, ISO 13577, EN 298, EN 746.2, the various otthers like Japan's, the GOST crap in far eastern Europe, and so on), as being the hardest to comply with because of its complexity. We have to design equipment to comply with 3814 and we have to completely and utterly prove that it meets every applicable part of the standard to a gas inspector in the state where the appliance is being commissioned. And the gas inspectors? They like to see tape and sealant on threaded pipework. I have a question. If you are using Swagelok, why are you using tape at all? For your high pressure small pipework, why not just swage onto the tube and rely on the Swagelok fittings? I mean, it's not as if you're allowed to use tape in a conical seat fitting anyway. I would have thought that you would be using pressure indicators and transmitter and nipples on the pipework that were fully welded Swagelok. Here in Australia, we seldom kill anyone with gas appliance explosions, despite the fact that they are looked after by just low pressure gas fitters. I can't think of one incident. The most lethal incident in Australia? In the oil and gas industry. Look up Longford. We (the rest of industry) tend to treat the oil and gas guys as a law unto themselves because they reckon they know everything, even though they have a track record of massive f**kups. It used to be that if you worked for Chevron in Western Oz, you were the big swinging dick in your social circle. Now, oil and gas is such a dirty word that no-one confesses that they still work for them. Most of that is environmental, but a large part is also the expensive failures in the industry over the last 20 years. -
RB26 rear block water connector - how to remove?
GTSBoy replied to joshuaho96's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
You don't use thread connections on anything larger than 40-50mm and certainly not on high pressure applications, so the point is moot. the fact remains that for pressures up to about 100kPa and small pipe sizes on distribution and appliance pipework, ANY threaded connection will be gas taped and probably with sealant as well. Almost never with sealant only. -
RB26 rear block water connector - how to remove?
GTSBoy replied to joshuaho96's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Industry standard. Almost compulsory on all natural and LP gas thread4d connections. Trusted by every gas fitter the world over. No-one uses white tape. This is yellow, is at least double the thickness of typical good white tape. Is at least 4 tmes the thickness of cheap Bunnings tape. -
Add to the list; Fuel pump & wiring. LSD, because single peggers are weak. Brakes. should have put these first. Spare money for new gearbox when the NA one breaks. Probably spare money for tailshaft mods to put in proper turbo box in place of NA box to prevent repeat breakage.
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CAM Timing fluctuating on Idle (Sometimes)
GTSBoy replied to Skaith4224's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
No, it's because the BOV is a bloody great air leak and when you poke the throttle you probably are making it open and close and reseat properly. Don't waste your time. Your AFM is hating life. Change the ECU or put the correct BOV on. -
I'm looking at it on a 24" monitor at full resolution. Nothing is in focus.
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Can you take a photo without the potato lens on? Can you feel any features (larger than the honing marks) with your fingernail? The vertical scoring? The apparent scuffing/deposition of material in a band about 1/2-2/3 a bore diameter down the hole?
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RB26 #5 amd #6 compression low........rebuild time
GTSBoy replied to GohiraDave's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yeah. Probly. -
This is seldom just rings. Be prepared for a dead piston.
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RB26 #5 amd #6 compression low........rebuild time
GTSBoy replied to GohiraDave's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
User error. -
Rings can be done with the block in the car, but that is such a shitty, bodgy way to do it. And if you're needing to do rings, then the bores will almost certainly want some attention and you can't do that in the car unless you're a bush mechanic. Prepare for it to some out.