GTSBoy

I quote again. You said "all performance cars in Japan" and imputed that the all blow up once they are in Oz. It's just not true. I removed fuel and added timing to both RB20DET and 25DETNeo base maps, running on 98, and neither engine blew up. The Neo is 10 years deep into that.

Well...... no. They usually run just fine on 98 without a need for a tune. When there was no 98, and 95 was the only option, that's when there was a problem.

It shouldn't be too surprising though. Regardless of the length differences and their effects on pulse tuning (if any meaningful ones exist), the 26 runners are quite a lot larger than the 25's. This plays well into the 25 keeping velocity higher at lower revs for a torque boost and paying the penalty with high flow losses at higher revs.

Yes, that's the point. -4 is obviously a problem when -9 is expected/typical and previously seen on the same car.

Bah! The reality is that punching a hole in a piece of sheet metal, and then putting a piece of pipe in it, does not "structurally compromise" the car. Sure, putting a hole through a chassis rail is not clever, but an inner guard is nothing. Yes, it will alter the crash behaviour. It will either be ever so slightly more crushy or ever so slightly less crushy, but really, expecting it to change the way that the car folds in an impact, by more than a poofteenth, is completely unrealistic. The problem is that the rego/roadworthiness authorities have no option but to say "no such mods" to completely eliminate the prospect of someone doing it to a chassis rail. And the effect on airbags, etc, is ever so slightly larger than my dismissal of the effect on the real strength of the car. So they have to be conservative. If you had a hole in an inner guard, welded it up, I would never complain. My car went through Regency with a >100mm hole in the horizontal surface of the inner guard between the headlight and the airbox. Has stormwater pipe passed through it. No-one cared. God bless America South Australia.

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538 I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan? Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Unless a box has excruciatingly clear fragile marking and you pay triple for careful handling, any freight company's trained apes will throw any box 40 feet from the belt to the far end of the truck. Bubble wrap does not really stop G loadings from sudden change in velocity from 5 m/s to 0 m/s.

There is no (thickness) difference that I know of. 4.08, 4.11, 4.36, should all have the same offset. The main differences that concern people are the size of teeth. The 4.08 and 4.36 have more teeth, therefore they are thinner and weaker than the 4.11. The other surprise is (sometimes) the bolt hole size. There are 2 sizes, and sometimes they are different where you'd expect them to be the same. 3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.

Ultrasonic cleaner often helps.

If it is registered in another state, then it is not unregistered. There is almost certainly some pain in the arse here though. I think you will struggle to deregister it in the other state, so I suspect that you are saying that you will be buying it unregistered because the owner will be deregistering it before selling it to you. Yes? If so, then your plan is basically ccorrect. But again, I suspect that there is more arse pain to be had here. If you were doing this into SA, for example, you would have to take the car to Regency for an identity inspection, then also possibly a tech inspection (which, in NSW at least is nominally one of your rainbow slips and can be done at Habib's around the corner), and then you can get plates for it. So I think you need to just call Services NSW and ask them, or look at their website. I'm damn sure that one of their business items is to tell people how to do this.

This question actually makes very little sense at this price. .... given the buy in for MCA pro-streets. Oh, yeah.....I kinda took it for granted that you had Bilsteins in there now, on the basis of my inability to comprehend how anyone could still have OEM dampers in a Skyline after all these years. My car has had several sets of dampers in it since the end of last century. I don't know if those KYBs in particular are twin tube or monotube, but it was my previous understanding that KYB only had twin tube damper offerings, and..... no-one should submit themselves to twin tubes when montubes are a thing. Unless it's on a 1975 Cortina.

Fixed that for you. But yeah. Nice Volvo wagon, either way.

Yeah, consider it as a regular, relatively short interval "reset" of the damper to original performance, rather than riding the degradation curve further down until they are noticeably less good then they started out. This is definitely required for proper track use, as you want your gear to be spot on every race, not good for the first few meets, then slumping downward for the remainder of the season. And it is enitrely reasonable to presume that the various parts used that give a higher level of performance might not be as durable as those used for plebian grade dampers. On top of that, apart from the users of plebian grade dampers being prone to driving through potholes and smashing kerbs, etc, the users of high end dampers are likely to drive the vehicle (on the street) in such a way as to put more loads through the dampers. Pounding up and down mountain passes, clipping roundabout kerbs, etc etc.

So, well, then. Following on from @soviet_merlin's suggestion, the Billies are rebuildable. Going to be the cheapest way out, although from what I understand, not a lot cheaper than buying new ones! WRT MCA coilovers, etc. They do not have to be harsh.

Hehe. Thread left turn as usual. What was rattling?

The rattle suggests you need to follow all the links. It's a complicated mess between the inner handle, the solenoid and the key barrel. There are little plastic clips that hold various of these together at numerous points. Loss of one can make it impossible for one rod to properly move the other.

The physical destruction of the plates is not really all that significant. If you retain "ownership" of the plate at VicRoads, then the plates can be replaced without much pain. Similarly, if you were to sell the "ownership" of the plates to someone else, the physical condition of the plates hardly matters. They can get new ones if they want to. GLWS.

Discrete addition of heat might be required.

You can get KW to make anything for your R chassis car.

#5 tells the story. None of the other values are great. The absolute values cannot be trusted unless you know the gauge is correct, but the general lowness and the fact that there is wide variation and one that is really low means it's time to open it up and let the Nissan out.

If you're willing to go to coilovers and not allergic to spending some money, then yes, anything that MCA offer will be good - just need to choose whether you want to be street oriented or track oriented (or in between). There are options for all that. Pro-Sport being the likely choice. Also Shockworks. I have the B6s on my R32 with Kings springs and they are very firm (damping) considering the lowish spring rates. I rate them very highly, and went down that route rather than coilovers, but I think if I had to replace anything now, I'd go MCA Pro-Sport.

Nah. You're good mate.

Difficult to say without some more diagnostic information. Turbine speed? EMAP? Compressor exit T? Pressure drop across cooler? Engine speed? Shape of curves?

Don't make the mistake of thinking that Australia is equivalent to the US. We're physically the same size, but with 10% of the population, and a VERY much more laid back approach to business than the cutthroat US environment. So..... things can take a while. Stock is held....perhaps in a warehouse in Indonesia? Maybe Poland? It'll get here eventually. Then they can send it to you. After smoko.

Hmm. Back in my day (186, 202, 308, etc), we used to put restrictors into the coolant circuit to reduce the flow rate, slow it down, and give it more hang time in the radiator to allow it to exchange heat to the air. I haven't done any calcs myself to demonstrate where the overall heat transfer coefficient limiting step is (pick up of heat in the engine, convective transfer from water to tubes in the radiator or convective transfer from tubes to air).....but my gut instinct is that throwing a larger pump at the situation isn't going to do much. Maybe a little, but what you gain on the swings you lose on the roundabouts. Faster water flow increases convective HTC a little, but reduced residence time in the engine and in the radiator simply reduces the of water time in contact with metal available for heat to actually move. You end up moving less heat per unit mass of water going past the metal surfaces, and make up for it by moving more mass of water.