
GTSBoy
Admin-
Posts
18,277 -
Joined
-
Days Won
277 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by GTSBoy
-
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
For an interesting hour or so of reading.... https://performanceforums.com/forums/forum/general/general-discussions/7452637-greg-latham-brakes-direct-anyone-in-contact-asap -
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Well, you cannot avoid cutting or removing the dust shields if you're going to go as large as you're talking about. And you should not even ever just once consider grinding anything off of the upright or any other part of the front suspension/steering, even for a track car. Doing it on a road car should be punishable by death (and it could happen). -
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Functional sensible engineering trumps fashion. -
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
No, of course not. Now you are really showing that you don't know what I'm on about. Steel wheels are heavier than the very light RPF1s that I have. Why do I have RPF1s? Because they are very light. Are they the best looking wheel? Hell no. Are they close to the optimum of light & affordable & not ugly. Yes. Yes they are. Oh. And they are black. Oh, and so are my calipers. And the hats on the brakes. -
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
This is true. And then you've spent $3k or $5k or $10k or $35k (if you've done it the best way) and you have something that looks good but doesn't actually do anything useful. I'd rather spend $10k on the suspension. Black arms of course, because I give no f**ks for the looks. -
Best Brake Upgrade for Looks
GTSBoy replied to waggat's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Full brake delete. You'll get many more admiring looks from doing that than any other upgrade. -
Clearance Nismo intake manifold RB26
GTSBoy replied to Max32's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I don't know why people don't just drop the subframe an inch or two to do this. -
R33 GTR bumper on GTST pics?
GTSBoy replied to jacobzking's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Just can't help poking the 33 folk. I know it's cruel, but.... -
Clearance Nismo intake manifold RB26
GTSBoy replied to Max32's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's a ball ache. There's plenty of posts on the topic. Have a search. -
R33 GTR bumper on GTST pics?
GTSBoy replied to jacobzking's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
And then.... it still looks like the QE2 on maiden voyage. Thank god for the R32. -
R33 GTR bumper on GTST pics?
GTSBoy replied to jacobzking's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
'sif you'd fit a genuine GTR bar to a 33 GTST anyway, these days. The fact that fibreglass "GTR" bars for GTSTs exist should be sufficient to indicate how it should be done if you want it to look that way, and fit. -
I always love the way the story comes out in dribs and drabs. OP, you f**ked it. It is up to you to work out what you f**ked. Luckily for you, Robbo is likely right on it. Unluckily for you, these things don't grow on trees any more.
-
Tapping, knocking, marble like sound coming from engine
GTSBoy replied to kevboost7's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
You won't ever notice the difference. (If there even is one!) -
I have posted the R32 wiring diagrams. The wire colours are visible.
-
It's in the side of the cam cover, just forward of the stock TB, facing the plenum, connected to the plenum by a shortish hose.
-
I have no idea. There might be upper and/or lower limits to shim thickness which mean that if you need to go too far you have to get a different bucket also. Stay within the limits and keep the same bucket. That sort of thing. You'll soon work it out once measured up. Of course, once you can't know in advance until you have measured. You really need to speak to someone who has done this on a VQ to find out what the rules/limits might be.
-
VQs use solid lifters. The clearance is set with a shim**. You first need to pull the cam covers off and measure all the clearances at running temperature with feeler gauges. You then dismantle the cams off the heads and pull the shims out and measure with a micrometer. You then order new shims at the required size to obtain the correct valve clearance for any valve that had incorrect clearance. If the clearance was too large, then the new shim will need to be thicker than the old shim by the difference between the required and actual clearances. This is not something that you can just order the parts off the net and do in an afternoon. The car will be in pieces for at least several days. **It might be the case that the VQs don't even have a shim and they just use graded bucket (with different thickness tops on them). In which case, in the discussion above, just replace "shim" with "bucket".
-
Valves don't tick. The lifters do.
-
It's clearly not Nissan, therefore added by a previous owner, therefore not going to be in any manuals. Why not follow the wires?