GTSBoy

No, of course not. Now you are really showing that you don't know what I'm on about. Steel wheels are heavier than the very light RPF1s that I have. Why do I have RPF1s? Because they are very light. Are they the best looking wheel? Hell no. Are they close to the optimum of light & affordable & not ugly. Yes. Yes they are. Oh. And they are black. Oh, and so are my calipers. And the hats on the brakes.

This is true. And then you've spent $3k or $5k or $10k or $35k (if you've done it the best way) and you have something that looks good but doesn't actually do anything useful. I'd rather spend $10k on the suspension. Black arms of course, because I give no f**ks for the looks.

Full brake delete. You'll get many more admiring looks from doing that than any other upgrade.

I don't know why people don't just drop the subframe an inch or two to do this.

Just can't help poking the 33 folk. I know it's cruel, but....

It's a ball ache. There's plenty of posts on the topic. Have a search.

And then.... it still looks like the QE2 on maiden voyage. Thank god for the R32.

'sif you'd fit a genuine GTR bar to a 33 GTST anyway, these days. The fact that fibreglass "GTR" bars for GTSTs exist should be sufficient to indicate how it should be done if you want it to look that way, and fit.

I always love the way the story comes out in dribs and drabs. OP, you f**ked it. It is up to you to work out what you f**ked. Luckily for you, Robbo is likely right on it. Unluckily for you, these things don't grow on trees any more.

You won't ever notice the difference. (If there even is one!)

Swap tyres front to rear. See what happens. Try them with +5 and -5 psi also.

I have posted the R32 wiring diagrams. The wire colours are visible.

It's in the side of the cam cover, just forward of the stock TB, facing the plenum, connected to the plenum by a shortish hose.

It's not. It takes 10 minutes.

I have no idea. There might be upper and/or lower limits to shim thickness which mean that if you need to go too far you have to get a different bucket also. Stay within the limits and keep the same bucket. That sort of thing. You'll soon work it out once measured up. Of course, once you can't know in advance until you have measured. You really need to speak to someone who has done this on a VQ to find out what the rules/limits might be.

VQs use solid lifters. The clearance is set with a shim**. You first need to pull the cam covers off and measure all the clearances at running temperature with feeler gauges. You then dismantle the cams off the heads and pull the shims out and measure with a micrometer. You then order new shims at the required size to obtain the correct valve clearance for any valve that had incorrect clearance. If the clearance was too large, then the new shim will need to be thicker than the old shim by the difference between the required and actual clearances. This is not something that you can just order the parts off the net and do in an afternoon. The car will be in pieces for at least several days. **It might be the case that the VQs don't even have a shim and they just use graded bucket (with different thickness tops on them). In which case, in the discussion above, just replace "shim" with "bucket".

Starting to sound like you need to worry that he pinged it to death while it was running on lawnmower fuel. Such damage is rapid and irreversible.

Valves don't tick. The lifters do.

Could be suspension....but I wouldn't put money on it. Likely to be tyres, from sitting still for months. Flat spot, gone hard, whatever. I am usually tempted to just blame the stupid R32 anti-squat geometry. I've never been able to stop my shitbox from axle tramping like a flea-bitten dog on meth.

Well, is it axle tramp? Is that what's happening?

It's clearly not Nissan, therefore added by a previous owner, therefore not going to be in any manuals. Why not follow the wires?

I'm still suspicious of this. There's not really any such thing as a real "non-genuine" AFM for these things. All the non-genuine ones are unreliably wrong, or just completely wrong.

Cam timing will not deliver a hundred ponies though. We're talking window dressing here.

Well, there's no way that that's true, because that's a stock turbo for a barely bigger engine and you can put substantially larger turbos than that on an RB20. The NeoOP6 is good for maybe 200rwkW on a 25, possibly more or less on a 20 (probably less). They really don't spool up a lot more lazily than the stock RB20 shitter turbo, so it's all win win....if you can find a good one, and if you are prepared to continue to live with a ceramic turbine that could fall off the shaft at the changing of the season. I have seen near stock (internals, etc) RB20s make >260rwkW on big turbos that come on like a light switch at 4500rpm or so. The happy medium is somewhere in the low 200s I think. If you want a new turbo, or to perhaps highflow your existing one, look at Hypergear.

Nothing. Family cars are appliances. They get no more love than an initial wash and a coat of wax from me, then any degradation thereafter is not my fault, as I'm not driving it / washing it / checking its oil / checking its tyres. Any money spent on PPF/ceramic presumes that the car underneath it is something worthy of being preserved, and frankly, nothing made in the last 20 years is even close to that, unless GT3RS, etc.