GTSBoy

OK, so, except for the Getrag in the R34, which was obviously not a Nissan gearbag, all AWD manual transmissions ARE the same. Ribs don't matter. They are the same basic box with the same basic strength. There are incremental differences from R32 to R33 and R33 S2 and S3. They picked up better synchros and such. But they are essentially the same box with the same ratios and it doesn't matter if they had an RB20 in front of them or an RB25 or 26. In fact, the core of the 5 speed is essentially the same thing as the RB25DET box, and very similar to the VG30 box which is also closely related but has big differences externally at the back end for the remote shifter.

If it did, it wasn't stock. There were no RB25DET AWD Skylines. Only in Stageas. The difference between a Stagea AWD Neo and an R34 Neo is the Stagea doesn't have the TCS throttle that the R34 does, because Stageas don't need traction control (because they're so bloody heavy....plus ATESSA). That woudl make sense, because GTS4 type things were all NA in the 33s and 34s. All AWD transmissions are the same. Same as GTR.

He wants pretty titanium ones.

If you google how to test a 3 wire cam sensor (or a hall effect sensor) you'll get videos and documents on it. You'll have to fish through these to find something that doesn't lead you astray. Ideally there is a section in your service manual for that engine that tells you what voltages and signals you're looking for. Can be done with a multimeter to an extent. A scope is better. You can buy a handheld LCD scope from Aliexpress for <$100. The sensor shouldn't pull much current, you'd be lucky to see much. The power supply to it is just to make it work. It switches the output on as the flag (some lump of metal on the cam, such as a lobe, or a dedicated flag) goes past the sensor. Not much current flows anywhere. The ECU is just looking for a voltage to turn up on the requisite terminal.

Nah, no ideas from me on that specific problem, but it sounds like Inxlusion thinks it's common enough to go down the swaptronics path. But what do you mean by "I tested my ECU current"? Cam sensors won't have a lot of current flow. Depending on what type of sensor you'll likely just have blips of voltage as the sense flags go past the sensor. You need an oscilloscope to see stuff like that.

Yes, so that's definitely the diff cover and they will all inevitably have white oxidation on them after a few years. There can be no expectation of raw cast alloy retaining any sort of nice as cast finish on an exposed part anywhere on a car. The question is ....is it just the usual light coating of white oxide, or is it horribly consumed and covered in little encrustations of chlorides? If the former, then the oxidation state of the alloy parts is not really any guide to how rusty the steel parts might be. But if it is horribly messed up, then the car might have spent a lot of time driving through wet slushy snow and salt, and it might have corrosion issues. The only way to know if to have a decent look. R33s and 34s in particular have a lot of problems around the front suspension towers. R32s less so there, but they can all suffer all over the place from salt. They should have all been rescued from Japan within 5 years of being built. Anything coming out of Japan now would want to have been stored in a garage or warehouse for the last 15 years.

If keeping the big springs, I would drop to a 22mm, or something. Maybe even a stocker.

He has massive front spring rate AND a 24mm bar. It has a lot of roll stiffness in the front. It's really no wonder it wants to mid-corner understeer. I suspect fixing the rear will come down more to getting rid of the welded diff and looking to the wheel alignment, and possibly bump steer geometry. Plus tyres. The reason the V8 Supercars can get away with spooled diffs is the massively sticky slicks. Just watch how slidey they get on corner exit when the tyres go off.

Nah. My neutral switch is working and the ECU doesn't give 2 shits whether it's in Neutral or not (when it comes to idle speed, that is). Might be more the case that your knock sensor is telling fibs and making the ECU freak out and pull timing. Have you verified the actual timing at the crank? I think you should hook up a Consult scanner of some sort (an actual scanner or USB software one like NissDataScan) and see what the ECU is doing. You will be able to see what timing it is commanding, how many "steps" it is putting out to the IACV, and various other things that might be instructive. Not taking advantage of the fact that you can connect to the ECU and see this stuff is really making it hard on diagnosis of weird shit like this.

Is there not a way to short a pin in the diagnosis connector and get it to flash codes at you? I mean, I'm not about to go spend time googling it for an engine for which I have no care. But you can.

codes.

Have you opened the bleed screw on top while running and observed coolant flowing through there?

Certainly a bot. And if not, of no apparent value anyway. Hit it with the ban stick.

Have you followed my other recommendation? Coolant flow?

Yes, a dirty pin or a strained connection where all but a few strands of wire have pulled out of the back of a crimped pin sound like a reasonable cause. Mind you....it's not as if there's supposed to be any current flowing in these wires. There shouldn't be any voltage drop. They literally are just voltage signals. Put 1V in at one end and fully expect 1V visible at the other. I might suspect earth connections. If you have poor earths somewhere, then you get different CUs around he car thinking that 0V is in a different place, leading to the sort of thing you've observed. And....for the love of Mike, do not just randomly install some sort of amplifier into a signal line meant to control a CU's decisions. That can only lead to worse things.

Well, there's your problem. Never been one of those on the road that didn't need to be pulled over for a random drug search or to inspect the treadless tyres.

Yes. It's more or less the same anywhere where the cops defect something and it goes over the pits. If they find more stuff on the pits, it must be made good or they won't clear the defects that it was there for. 35 years ago or more, my mate got defected in SA for steering wheel, bonnet scoop, oil leaks. He "fixed" those things (ie cleaned off the oil without fixing the leak) and went to the cop shop to have it cleared. The Sergeant was more thorough than the patrol car bobby and found about 10 more things he had to fix before he would even look at the original list. I took my car to Regency for inspection after the (pre-approved) engine transplant. I had to make sure that there were no dents in the chassis rails, everything was or at least looked stock. No non-approved suspension parts, good seat belts, etc etc. Windscreen demister has to work. They checked EVERYTHING. would have defected the car if they were not happy. They let me slide on 2 minor things, on me promising to make them good after I left. In Victoriastan? I wouldn't be surprised if they have it on the books.

Erk. I dunno. It might be genuine, but it is very cheap. Very cheap and genuine are not compatible. My presumption is that any such part on eBay is fake, even if they promise you on their sister's virginity that it is genuine.

There's another hydraulic cylinder in this mix you know.

Oh, it's way worse that what you say. In Victoriastan, you are not allowed to have any more than 2 inlet modifications. If you do an intercooler, that's one. If you change the air filter, that's two. Then you're done. If you don't change the filter, so you can change the turbo, that's your two. And if you change the turbo, you'd better keep it looking as stock as possible, because that's somewhat of a nono in Vic. And....if you bin the ECU and go MAP sensed, and the AFM is removed, then that is an inlet modification (removing the AFM) and that's a 3rd mod and that's not allowed. But none of it is really allowed because changing the ECU gets you a full swing kick to the balls. An FFP is another inlet mod, probably earn you another kick in the nads. And if you do it all on your Ps....good luck. Spending big money on these mods, only to get defected and have to revert it al back to stock, doesn't sound like fun. A set of stealthy upgrades is far better. A return flow cooler is a good idea because the stock piping remains. A stock looking turbo on the stock manifold is also good. No screamer, obviously. And, do not be too confident on your ability to avoid detection by disabling the bonnet pull. If the cops defect you, and they can for any reason at all, you go to inspection. At inspection, they WILL find whatever you have under the bonnet,, unless you have reverted to stock in the few days grace that you have. And that is a lot harder and more time consuming on a heavily modded car than anyone ever is willing to believe.

The auto won't last long at 350whp, let alone more.

Different front-rear speeds is one of the significant inputs for the ATESSA CU to decide what it's going to do about that torque split. Remember.....it was designed in the 80s.

Tell him the price son. Any number with 4 zeros is not going to be what he wants to hear. Having a 2 or a 3 as the first digit will be the end of it.

Not really an option without buying another (R32) ECU, unless it's an S2 C34 (and hence Neo engine). Best avvoided iin favour of the other options. Disclaimer, I have Nistune, so it's not as if I don't think it's a good thing. Just not as appropriate here, probably.

They are not performance mods, unless you need the performance that they are suited to, which is in the order of double what you are asking for. In your context, they are 100% cosmetic, and actually carry a performance penalty, in the case of the FFP. As far as I am concerned a show car does not have to have any actual performance. If its purpose is to look pretty with the bonnet up, it does not even have to run. If you want a good performance car, then the things that make it pretty with the bonnet up are not necessary and can be counterproductive. You do you. But a highmount and an FFP are not even remotely required. I'd rather spend the money on brakes, suspension and tyres than bling to make the guys with shaved heads want to blow you.