GTSBoy

I'd start a new thread with a clear explanation of your problem, rather than force prospective helpers to re-read an old thread and fish through whatever has been said in it to work out what your issue is.

Hah! A guy with 6 posts is not checking his notifications from a decade ago.

Highly damaged R32s being handed in below reserve at AU$25 at auction in Japan!

Seems legit.

All** the Jap legal systems have a 2.5" restriction in them somewhere. This is on top of all the other reasons to not love them. A nice big centre-offset muffler in the middle and the biggest muffler that will fit in the rear is usually sufficient to keep even a 4" system civilised. Subject to Dose's stricture on the mufflers not being cheap shit retail part shop garbage, of course. **May not be completely true, but is near enough to true to stand as stated.

What, you mean the lifter noise?

Oh, and I concur with Matt. Mechanically, the engine will be a mess. You are definitely looking at engine out and at least partial disassemble, new hoses and seals throughout at a very minimum, probably also some remedial work because it has been open to the elements. There's more thousands of $$ hiding there in parts alone than you might expect. And Matt's warning about the wiring suffering at the hands of rats is spot on. You'd want to go over that with a fine toothed comb, might end up replacing parts of it. This will be 10x easier with the engine out. What has been said about the engine and wiring goes equally for the gearbox and the ATTESA system. Bringing that stuff back from the dead is a work of dedication.

Welcome. Whether it's a gem in the rough or has a million hidden problems is something that we can't really tell. It does look pretty straight in those photos. What really matters is any rust that's hiding around windows or in the plenum/boot/sills, etc, as you can't ever really see that stuff without a thorough dig. And whether the underside has been abused. And whether your plan to bring it back to near stock is a good/wise one or not depends on how deep your pockets are. With what you have listed as missing, and the ridiculous prices being asked (and handed over) for those parts these days, you could probably spend a good portion of the end value of the car (ie, that ~$70k number is not unreasonable) just to get most of the way there and still not be able to get hold of everything you need. 'Twere me, I would forgo the "restoration" vibe in favour of "anything that is missing and can be replaced with better than stock aftermarket stuff is going to get replaced with better than stock aftermarket stuff". Seats, turbos, etc etc. You'd be mental to spend money on putting stock format twin turbos back onto the car when you need to buy absolutely everything, including the manifolds. I'd be 6Boost/Sinco/Artec/whatever and a ~600HP single before I'd finished slapping myself for contemplating putting stockish twins on. Seats same. Why spend $4k (and yes, it's effectively $4k just for fronts) for 35 year old orange dust generators with someone else's ball and arse crack sweat soaked in, when you could use the Recaros, or get nicer ones, or Brides? Wheels, same. Stock wheels command stupid money for...a bloody 16x8. There aren't really even any decent tyres for 16" wheels any more. And things like air-con? There's aftermarket gear available now that is 10x better than the old R32 era stuff. If you don't have the stock stuff, surely new has to be better. A stock GTR is not that exciting to drive any more. Stock seats are not awesome. (There's nothing really wrong with them in terms of support, but better stuff is available and better seats make the drive so much better when you're really up it). Add power, add better suspension and brakes, add better seats, enjoy thrashing it the way that it is supposed to be thrashed.

That's a filter, and after the filter is the boost sensor. The ECU's boost sensor. Not the dash gauge boost sensor. The ECU's sensor is DEFINITELY connected to the crossover pipe. The dash gauge boost sensor is definitely connected to the plenum. The drawings are in the R34 workshop manual (as I already said), which is freely downloadable after a brief google search.

The hose near the BOV has nothing to do with the BOV. It is probably the sense line for the Neo's boost sensor, which is usually mounted on the back end of the coil cover there, next to the purge solenoid. All this is shown inn the DRAWINGS that I keep referring you to. The hoses near the battery look like someone's bodge. No-one can know what some wanker in the past has done.

Yes, so then my advice is as I have given in the past. Don't rush it. You don't have to let the excitement make you make bad decisions. You don't have to have the nicest wheels immediately. You can wait a few extra weeks. Get hold of it and measure it yourself. It is important to realise that the subframe might not be evenly set left-right across the car and you could easily have a 10mm difference left to right. And if you're trying to do this from internet measurements and pushing it to the last mm, you will possibly find yourself with it rubbing on the inside on one side of the car, and on the outside on the other. The only way to win in those circumstances is to go with a more conservative wheel choice, because, while you can put a 5mm spacer on one side, there is no such thing as an "unspacer"** for the other side. **even if I did manage to convince some numpty that they existed abut 20 years ago.

What car? Do you not have it in possession? The reasons I ask are: Obviously it differs between the different models as to what will fit, including choices like strut/coilover choice, It makes no sense to be buying wheels for a car that is not in possession. When you have it in possession, you can actually measure what is on there and how much clearance you have. Then the answers just fall from the sky.

It was working 2 months ago, straight after it was regassed. My quality of life is the same now as it was then.

Oh, and that BOV hose. Well, if it is connected to the BOV on one end, then the other end used to go to the plenum, no? Again, there are drawings in the manual that show all this.

I have never seen a turbo crossover pipe casting without the TCS TB in place. Your photo does not do enough to show what is actually going on. That oblique angle does not tell me if that mounting point for the TCS TPS is open to the pipe or not not. If it is open, then someone has removed the TCS throttle, motor and TPS, etc. And yes, you will have to close it up somehow. If there are no penetrations on either the front or the rear of the crossover pipe, then you don't have to do anything. But as I said - I've never seen a casting with the mounts that doesn't have the TCS parts. The Stageas had the same motor, but because they were AWD, they don't have TCS. So they have a different crossover pipe. The air con will work without the fan - as in, it will run. It won't work well in hot stop-start traffic though. The fan is there to get some air moving across the condensor. Yes, the wiring loom/plug for it is supposed to be within reach of the fan's own plug. If it's nearby, you'll find it. If it has been f**ked off, no-one can help you. You really should look at the service manual. There are lots of diagrams.

Again, on an R34, I don't know exactly. But somwhere around there. We all relocate them to clear intercoolers, oil coolers, etc. No. The actual TPS is on the actual throttlebody, which is of course, further along at the plenum inlet. It's on the opposite side of the crossover pipe from the throttle cable and bell crank that you can see in your pic #3. The RWD turbo Neos have an additional ECU (actually, TCS ECU) controlled throttlebody where that blank opening is on yours, for the traction control system.

Heh. It might be worth it. I turned it on last night because the thunderstorm was causing fogging inside the car. I don't think the compressor came on, meaning that the gas has probably made an exit somewhere. f**ken.

Air con condensor fan. Not sure about the brackets. They're not the same on the 32. Possibly for tank breather lines. Traction control motor/throttle body. Hoses? Can't tell. External air temp sensor for the climate control. And yes, bushing. Dunno about the brake brackets. Probably NLA.

HEL connect to the strut tab using the factory bits.

If you toss the rubber lines and the little steel bits on the end into the bin and install some HEL or similar braided lines, all these problems just go away. And the lines are better.

Welcome. Some points. Same same to GTST. Probably better to lift the car. The ideal eyebrow height** for R chassis cars is ~345-355mm. Any lower than that and you are working in the wrong part of the suspension geometry swing arcs and doing yourself a dis-service. **As measured from the centre of the wheel cap to the lip of the guard above it. If you want to run it loooow, you either have to install a bunch of extra parts (like drop spindles and do something to fix roll centre problems etc etc) or put up with it handling like a bucket of shit.

I'm down south. It seldom gets hotter anywhere else in the southern cities than it does in Adelaide. When we get 40°C, it's usually for a week at a time. My aircon works, and works well. I just don't need/want it in most circumstances. Even driving home from work in the afternoon for 45 minutes, where the air over the road might be 45°C, I prefer the windows down. In fact, I use it so seldomly that I needed to get it regassed because it all leaked out somewhere and we couldn't find where, and I really should use it every week to keep the seals wet....but I always forget. It's probably been 2 months since I last remembered to turn it on.

That's me. I drive in 40°C heat with the windows down most of the time (that it is 40°C, anyway).

Seems about right to me. 15w oil is a bit on the heavy side when it is cold. Depending on what bearing clearances were set up, 100 psi is a completely expectable result.

The sheave is the V part of the pulley that makes contact with the belt face. Nope, R32 with R34 motor. And no, there should be no fore-aft adjustment possible, otherwise everyone would f**k it up. This is probably you rapidly changing the engine revs with the clutch, which then causes the fan belt to slip hard for an instant. If it is not, then the noise is in the clutch and that's probably real bad.