GTSBoy

I wouldn't bother. It's all hidden under the boots anyway. I certainly only worried about for about as long as it took to verify that it all went back together without any banging and knocking and looked and worked fine.

I think the Microtech dash itself might be too ugly to keep looking at. They are.....pretty old now. Never were attractive, only getting uglier as flash new stuff comes to market.

The top one. Pretty please. Now you have to find that lid!

I think Matt was talking to me. It's not that money is an issue. It's just that once you pick off one scab, you have to pick them all off, and you end up doing the door trims, and then something else (say, the dash, even though it is almost perfect it is 30 years old and does not look new any more) starts to look scaly and down the rabbit hole we go. Plus, flocking is not a hard wearing surface, so it's not gunna last long on an armrest. Needs to be leather/pleather. I have alcantara(ish) seats now, so I need to step my game up if I'm going to trim anything.

If you could print me a hinge (that would work, which might be hard for a printed part) I'd happily send you beer. I made mine by using some mystery plastic sheet (nylon or something) about 2mm thick and partially scoring it to fold it to make the hinge. Worked, but was always on a limited future.

They're miserable things at this age. The top hinge on mine broke and I made a replacement that then broke a few years later and I haven't gotten back to fix it again. And the vinyl on top is cracked like the elbow point on the armrests does and now I have to open a vein and talk to a motor trimmer!

Does it have the lid also? The lid on these is shorter than the lid on the normal lower armrest.

Paper filter elements for petrol are generally ~10 micron. And once they have any sort of filter cake on them, they tend to filter even finer.

What he means is the reg is mounted somewhere off rail, say on the guard or firewall and returns to tank from there. A T takes fuel from the supply side of the reg over to the fuel rail and the rail is dead head, just like a returnless system. The disadvantage of any returnless/semi-returnless system is that the fuel sits in the rail until it is used, so you do have higher possibility of heat soak related problems I wouldn't even bother. Why bother having the reg in the engine bay and a return line? Just put the reg at the rear of the car like a true returnless system. If you're going to put the reg in the engine bay, just plumb the rail up properly, like everyone else has always done. It's a piss or get off the pot situation here.

And there's the reason. The shifter hole is further back in the autos. No, there is nothing you can do to move the driveline backwards. It's not necessary. Every manual swapped R32 has the same thing. It just stresses the rubber boot a bit when you cover it all back up.

Never seen it done. The easiest way to put some gauges in is 52mm stepper gauges in a 3 wide single DIN panel between the radio and the air con.

But don't just "tap into" randomly either. Consult the wiring diagram and make your new wiring look like that. FWIW, there is almost not one single dash signal that comes from the ECU. On an R32 it is the tacho and the cat over temp light (which is used to flash the engine fault codes). Nothing else. The oil pressure, water temperature and boost come direct from their sensors in the engine bay. Fuel directly from the tank. If it's an AWD, then the torque meter is fed from the ATESSA CU. That's it.

Usually from an installation error.

Blown HG.

Just put some in the top. So long as it hasn't gone to low and sucked some air, of course.

The real question is....why only a bar of boost? Why not wind it up to where it is supposed to be? Look at the comp map for the 8374, and then the r34 twins, and tell me that they are both equally close to optimal performance at 1 bar.

Not if it is actually just a small leak. Just watch your level. But, it could also transition into a really big leak at any moment, and that could be destructive.

Patrol is either rear or mid, I think.

And while that can be true, it is also possible that the clunk comes from the tailshaft centre bearing, from the diff CW&P lash, from CVs or the splines of the driveshafts into the hubs, etc. Also possible to be in the front drive stuff, but you wouldn't expect anything there to cause much noise on a normal takeoff.

Exert about half the force required to make the 1/4" TW go click when set to 5, and call it done? Or just do them up to 5 on the basis that 2-4 Nm is barely more than a sneeze? Is your TW even sufficiently calibrated to know the difference between 4 and 5 Nm?

Everyone runs E85 in original steel tanks. You can have extra corrosion issues because E85 can absorb a lot of water (compared to plain petrol) and have it sit on the bottom of the tank. In practice though, most of the stories where this has happened and caused problems involve really unusual circumstances. Just do it.

Definitely is a bad switch. Duncan linked to the recent thread where I gave advice on this. As to the dash lights, get the wiring diagram and check it out closely. You want to understand where each section of the dash lighting gets its 12V and its ground, and pursue those into the circuit board and wiring, to see if you can find the culprit. Just randomly cleaning stuff only works if the stuff you're cleaning is the dirty culprit. If the problem is a bit further back in the wiring, you solve nothing.

Keep in mind that swaptronics with the G sensor might lead to the death of a perfectly good G sensor, if the problem exists elsewhere, such as in the ABS CU. So definitely put the effort into measuring the voltages as Joshua describes, before plugging in anything new. A long time ago there was a problem with R32 HICAS CUs failing. Thee R33 ABS CUs are now well and truly old enough for things like electrolytic capacitors in them to start reach EOL. That can cause bad electrical gremlins that might fry things like G sensors. Cover your arse.

I'd agree with you if it wasn't against my internet policy to do such things. Also, my car is a bitsa now, and I've never anywhere near it, so my location is moot! I'll happily give such information when it's helpful though!

There is a 100% easily understood vacuum hose diagram in the bloody manual! Get it. Look at it. Understand it. Replicate it. Job done.