GTSBoy

Keep in mind that swaptronics with the G sensor might lead to the death of a perfectly good G sensor, if the problem exists elsewhere, such as in the ABS CU. So definitely put the effort into measuring the voltages as Joshua describes, before plugging in anything new. A long time ago there was a problem with R32 HICAS CUs failing. Thee R33 ABS CUs are now well and truly old enough for things like electrolytic capacitors in them to start reach EOL. That can cause bad electrical gremlins that might fry things like G sensors. Cover your arse.

I'd agree with you if it wasn't against my internet policy to do such things. Also, my car is a bitsa now, and I've never anywhere near it, so my location is moot! I'll happily give such information when it's helpful though!

There is a 100% easily understood vacuum hose diagram in the bloody manual! Get it. Look at it. Understand it. Replicate it. Job done.

What do you mean by this? This is an opportunity for you to put the vacuum lines on this car right. Get the manual, like I said, and make it look like it should.

I'm trying to work out how anybody knows what car we're talking about here. The OP's listed R32 can't have the shitty A-LSD, and there's no mention of an R34 in any text here. Were there even any R34 RWDs with the shitty diff? I guess that means that it should only be an R33. Was gibts?

The system is working. It's not working properly, but it is working.

Bogan's gotta boge. I guess where you are it's Redneck's gotta yeeha.

The silicone line is probably supposed to be connected to the steel tube. The steel tube will pop out on the other side of the timing cover and is probably connected to the charcoal canister, as Meap said. But, given that the plugged line is silicone, therefore not stock, it would be impossible for anyone to be categorical about what it is. You will need to follow it to the other end, and then compare it with the vacuum hose diagram from the workshop manual.

If it were me, I'd just build a controller on an Arduino. Fit it with a little trim pot or two, put it in a sealed box, and use the sensor location in the rad tank. The trim pots would allow the on and off points to be adjusted, rather than relying on hard switching points. The logic in the controller could be as sophisticated or as simple as you like. You could even have extra RTDs or TCs looking at external air T, engine bay T, etc, to inform how hard to run the fan. I'd see it as an opportunity to experiment with programming some fuzzy logic. Might turn out to be complete overkill, but good fun. But, if you have the capacity to run it from the ECU, almost any other option is verging on silly. No extra sensors required, all sorts of additional logic available at the twitch of a mouse, etc.

Screw you both. Now I've got that song by Limahl going through my head. Yuck. Yuck. Ick.

GTRs have a CV joint at the diff snout end of the tailshaft. No U-joint there. Can't help you with measurements, sorry.

Well that depends on whether the encumbrance is still current or if it's just a zombie. You need to contact the holder of the encumbrance to find out if they actually do still hold it. These registers are not always going to be 100% accurate. They serve to prevent as many surprises as possible. Here you have a potential surprise. Investigate.

Yeah, well. f**k PranK then.

Indian Premier League?

Duncan beat me to it. What he said ^^. But making sure to interpret 12 turn as 1/2 turn.

I note the disappearance of a nonsense post from this thread!!

As to the question of the inner rear seat attachment point - it's a stud in from the tunnel. A flat plate with a hole in it can be interposed between the seat rail and the tunnel. That plate then needs to have your harness eye on it in some fashion.

Yeah, but you shouldn't.

I don't know where you would get a cover that you would prefer a trimmer to use over the cover that a trimmer would build from scratch from your choice of nice leather, or alcantara or whatever. Keep in mind that with the wheel you showed, you have to re-pad and cover the entire thing (except the hornpad/airbag part), not just the rim. The rim and the spokes are all the same thing. They all need to be under the same sewn expanse of fabric (or plasti-rubber, or whatever you do on top), with seamless padding from the edges of the spokes out onto the rim. There are a number of crowds in Oz that speciailise in rebuilding steering wheels. They can redo them to factory spec, or you could go leather. Just do a google for "steering wheel restoration australia".

A local motor trimmer can usually redo a steering wheel at a reasonable cost. I say "reasonable", but nothing involving manual labour is really reasonable compared to buying a new Momo or similar.

If you're in Australia it is not legal to mount your front numberplate offset to one side. And don't carry on about Evos - they were ADRd that way. An exemption, if you will. I'm not even going to talk about the pointlessness.

I see what you did there.

Not if it's currently working. They're not a high failure rate item in my experience. OEM is best. Nothing wrong with them.

So Duncan is taking the conservative approach, being that for his usage requirements, staying with the original design coils is sufficient. And, if, like him and myself (and my requirements are even lower than D's) you already have good OEM coils or Splitfires then there is no point in paying for an upgrade. I am of the opinion though that, if I were to suffer coil death on any of my Splitfires, such that I needed to spend ~$700 to replace the lot, then I would definitely just stump up the extra to convert to modern pencil coils and buy headroom (that I might not need) but also just blast the bejeezus out of the mixture every time it sparks, making damn sure that it burns nicely. It's an opportunity to move the design of everything forward a notch, upgrade the coilpack loom to new wires and connectors, etc etc. All the things that you might not do if you just like-for-like replace.

LSD and turbo chassis rear suspension arms and shocks (ie, for style, not eyelet style). That's about it.