GTSBoy

The first time that I probably had it, I had a headache one night, a sore throat the next night. That was all. The only time I know I absolutely had it, and....sorta 9 months post previous booster, I had a headache and sore throat for the full week. Some lethargy and possibly some cognitive impairment, but I was working flat out the whole week (while isolated in an apartment because not allowed back on site) because there was a metric shit ton of work that had to be done. And for a fair while afterwards I was definitely not as aerobically fit as before. And that possibly is still the case now. So, in other words, I don't get knocked around too badly and I still had/have some lingering effects. I would absolutely hate to be like you and get smacked around by it for weeks and months. And that's without all the recent research suggesting that there could be Parkinson's disease (and other autoimmune related problems) in store for more people than was previously the case, simply because they've had the vid. I think it is definitely something to stay away from (by vax and by precautions) and minimise the body's reaction to (by vax). This is probably also true of a lot of other respiratory viruses. The ones that we're used to (all the normal cold and flu' ones) are part of the background and are probably not too risky for most people. But anything new or less common stands a chance of kicking the immune system in the nuts. This new Parkinson's disease etc thing is scary enough, but apparently some of the other effects look like HIV, which is nobody's idea of a good night out.

Yes. It sucks to get the 'rona these days. I got it in March. Literally the day before I started feeling crook I was talking to a workmate about getting boosted. So...blammo to that idea. And I was well due for boosting so it took a week to fight it off. If boosted, perhaps wouldn't have even noticed (like the probable previous time I had it in early 2022, when I had a sore throat for a day and tested -ve). And then, I'm telling my kids a couple of weeks ago, if you're not boosted, probably time to think about it. And nekminit, kid#2 goes down with a +ve RAT. Feels like shit, and making the rest of the fam fear for their immediate futures.

I can't remember if that Stagea had frameless windows. If it does, stop worrying about. There will be wind noise and there is nothing you can do about it.

OK, buy MSD. You be the guinea pig. It's not as if 6x$95 is all that much more than $470 anyway.

Can't forget them. Have spent the better part of the last 2 years in Bunbury. Any longer and I would have to get one of each.

Them, and beer bogans with 175HP outboards, fishing rods, massive jacked up Navaras/70series/'Lux/'Cruiser/etc, and 5 ritalin infused scrotes on inflatable rings doing stupid water circle work just outside the swimming zones of public beaches. Almost all the aluminium production of Queensland goes into replacement tinnies for all the stupidity fuelled destruction and sinking of the existing stock in crocodile infested waters up north.

I don't think that that's your only worry. First up, it's not a problem in itself. If it happens, you just put shorter studs into the original hubs. Secondly....to try to fit a 10.5" wheel on the back of an R34 is an exercise in getting the offset absolutely perfect. You'd want to be damn sure (measure it yourself 20 times) before committing. Because you don't have the option to do anything except just throw that wheel onto the (probably only choice of) hub adapter, you only have one outcome. Either it fits or it fouls and you probably can't do anything about it if it fouls (beyond guard mods, perhaps coilovers, whatever it takes to find the required space).

Surely, if the choice is between 225/50 and 235/50, then 235/45 would be fine? And plentiful.

Hmm. I feel tempted to offer you my custom valved B6s** with ~5.6/4.something kg springs.....for about the same money as an upgrade to a set of truly excellent Aussie coilovers would cost. Which is about AU$3K. **Look up the thread by SydneyKid on here from many years ago, when he started offering modded B6s.

What the f**k do boat people know about safety? They are the very worst decision makers in the world! Also, a webbing strap like that is loaded in as close to ideal fashion as possible (excusing the stupid jerk who gives it a stupid jerk when he lets the belt out while the boat is still otherwise restrained from moving, then releases that when he realises what he's done). Nice flat spool of belt, no sharp edges to work against, etc etc. I mean, who am I to lecture anyone about functional safety?

"Hasn't crushed your foot yet" is not the same as "100% fit for purpose".

Yeah, nah. The load that it is expected to be subjected to in a collision might well be greater than the load that it would hold up in a dead lift, but it would be expected to be thrown away afterwards, after only being exposed to load once, and it also wouldn't have knots and other shit and sharp edges from lifting hooks and so on. Absolutely not fit for purpose. I don't care that every man and his dog has been (mis)using them this way since they became a thing. One little fray on the side of such a belt and it can tear through faster than you can swear about it. With proper, rated lifting slings, we cut them up and throw them in the bin at the slightest sign of edge fraying. And you're using the same seat belt over and over again, typing knots in it and crossing your fingers that it won't drop your engine on the front of the car? I just don't follow the logic.

Yuh, I agree that a fabric sling is better than most levelling devices for the reasons already expressed. But f**k using seat belts. Not fit for purpose. A more correct sling can be obtained from safety shops/lifting equipment suppliers for not a lot of coin, and is engineered for the job. Seat belts give me the willies. Even our friends at China Inc (Bunnings) have sling straps. 2m 1000kg flat sling is <$10 (surprisingly!). Longer stronger stuff still only ~$20.

I'm gunna put my engineer hat on and say that shimming the relief valve cannot compensate for wider bearing clearances. Either the pump has the capacity to maintain pressure at the flow required in the wider clearances, or it doesn't. The relief valve just raises the limiter for those moments when the pump has more than enough capacity.

Like many things, the different series of Bosch dishwashers (and presumably other appliances) are made in different places. I can't remember the details, because the last time I bought was when we renovated half the house, which was about 7 years ago, but I looked into it then and chose appropriately. "Appropriately" effectively came to mean "not from the bottom couple of tiers of models". That dishwasher replaced the previous >10 yr old Bosch which was still going strong when we pulled the house apart. It was so good that I donated it to the landlord of the rental we used for a few months while our house was unliveable, to replace the shitty shitty (probably Westinghouse) dishwasher in that place. probably still going strong if it hasn't been tenanted to death.

There's a battery in there. Shit has probably already gotten weird inside.

Just buy a new siren.

...... buy a new siren.

No. You can trust that thing. You can't necessarily trust the thing you buy from Bunnings. I'm with you. It's kinda six of one, half dozen of the other. A good mineral diesel oil is actually a really good choice. High detergent, because diesel, no friction modifiers (because diesel engines are typically low speed engines). Perhaps that's less true now than it used to be though. All the high speed diesels in those shitty Mazda Karens and the like have probably meant changes for diesel oil formulation.

Break in oils have a lot of "grease" and a lot of detergents and nothing in the way of friction modifiers. The lack of modifiers so as to encourage bedding of the rings, etc. The greases (various metallic elements, such as the zinc) to provide some cushioning of the metal to metal blows and the detergents for the purposes of gathering up all the crud that failed to get cleaned out after machining. The high detergents are good for things like lawn mowers, but I reckon that the expected short life span of break in oil makes it a poor choice for anything that actualy has a bit of a hard life (ie the mower) and intermittent servicing (ie, the mower!)

When I leave it to my mechanic to buy parts, like the recent need for a clutch slave cylinder, he will, as often as not, get it from the local Nissan dealer. There is little, if any, cost penalty, and genuine (ie Pitwork) Nissan parts are frequently a whole step up in quality to the 3rd party stuff sourced elsewhere.

I would have said zero. Now I would say one.

If you ran a wideband and tuned for a lean cruise you could save some. But it's just not an "efficient" engine design. Manufacturers have put a metric shit tone of work into reducing fuel consumption in the 35 years since that engine was born. Port design, chamber design, high compression, valve timing control, injector placement (and quality!), low tension piston rings, thin oils, smaller bearing journals, low drag engine ancillaries, etc etc. None of these modern things have you, hmmm?

Per your other thread. If you drive that brick at 85mph you're going to use fuel. The old RB is not a modern engine.

You should be able to drive it the whole way, even with the (presumed) high boost actuator fitted. Just stay off boost. It should be easy enough. I drive 28km to and from work each morning and some days never see a sniff of positive manifold pressure. The highflow is laggier than the stock turbo, and has less restriction (in both the exhaust and comp side) so the car will drive better off boost than it did before anyway. My car is more torquey off boost than it was with the stocker, and it takes more provocation to build any boost.