GTSBoy

If I was anywhere near my car I'd go have a look. Anyway, that photo does align with the shape of the inlet pipe on the EPC data drawing, so I concur, it does come from the block. All good. And now that I am forced to squint down to 20/20 vision, I see that the outlet pipe is actually possible (and correct) to interpret as running backwards away from the turbo, and around the back to the point on the back of the inlet manifold plumbing that I originally posited as the source for the supply. So those two brackets on that pipe would be on the back of the head or thereabouts.

That shows that the water inlet pipe, 15192P, is on the outboard side of the turbo. The connection on the inboard side of the turbo is thus the outlet, and it very clearly runs forward, towards the plumbing around the front of the engine/water pump. I must say that I am not speaking as an authority here, because I've never paid attention to what actually runs where, but it was always my impression that the water for the inlet does not come out of the side of the block. The oil certainly does. But I always thought the water for the turbo came from the little clusterf**k of pipes under the back end of the inlet manifold.

It should be fine. I'd give it a light spray.

Do you mean "reuse"?

I wouldn't say "delicate job". I'm not trimmer/upholsterer, but my expectation is that you strip down to the steel and repad, and trim with leather

Not strippable. Straight into the foamy substrate.

Yes, this all goes back to the first thread from this OP where I questioned the possibility that the calipers were indeed not R chassis GTR.

It's not really a lip. It might or might not be detachable, but it is definitely "with" that front bar, which is anything but stock. So I would not expect that lip to necessarily attach to the stock bar (neither the GTSt or GTR bars). I would also suggest that it is not Integra. Integras are not as wide as R32s. The lip itself appears to be inspired by the standard GTR lip or some of the slightly larger aftermarket ones like Garage Saurus, just with the openings deleted. Has similar overall shape. It's like the lip opening has been moved up into the main bar, so you still have it but the lip is cleaner. I think that makes the bar probably deeper, so the lip ends up close to the road without being a massive piece of plastic in its own right. But that car is also stupidly low and stupidly stanced out, so the proximity to the road could be an illusion. Either way - I don't think you'll likely make the lip work on its own, if you can work out what it is.

No. Does physically replace the HX, does not replace its function.

If you remove the factory water to oil HX, you do not get the warming aspect of that situation. Having the warming is a nicety that you can live without, probably unless you live in a real cold climate and would actually gain a reasonable sized benefit from keeping it.

Yes. The low and high circuits are completely separate, but that switching is done at the column switch. The binnacle switch has left, right (headlights) and parkers. The left circuit is switched back and forth between low and high beam, at the column switch. Ditto the right. The low beams are the projectors. The high beams are the plain globes in reflectors inboard of the projectors. They are not supposed to be on at the same time**. So, I would suggest that you have a problem in your column switch also. Or, possibly someone had f**ked with your wiring, in an attempt to have the low beams stay on when you go to high beams, without doing it properly (as described in my footnote below). The consequences of not doing it properly will cause too much current to be drawn through the switches, which could certainly lead to the binnacle switch running hot and causing the damage you had in there. ** FWIW, you could alter the wiring so that the lows stay on with the highs. This would require some relay and diode logic down at the front of the car so that the low beam relays (added, not stock) pull in when low beam is selected, and also when high beam is selected. This would just be a link between the high and low wires coming down to the front of the lights from the column switch, with a diode in it so that the low side does not also run the high side, but the high side can run the low side.

It's a matter of where the heat is released and which fluid sees it first, rather than high falutin' thermodynamics stuff with specific heat capacity or how much of the stuff is in the engine.. Combustion happens in the head, which is heavy with water jackets.

Wonderifrelated?

An arduino based controller could do all that you ask of it Josh. The accumulator could quite reasonably be located any number of places. I myself wouldn't have any problem with the idea of it being in the boot. There's space, and there's plenty of protection for the lines, and more protection can be added.

Seriously, this is all bullshit. If not going dry sump, and still worried about sudden loss of oil pressure (after doing all the other sensible RB breathing fixes), then....... Accusump. /argument.

I think he might have been implying that my post was paragraphs of useless bullshit facts. Which is kinda funny, because..... they're not useless, nor bullshit. They are facts though. So he got one out of three. Which is a pretty good result from him compared to previous efforts.

Yeah, nah. Very blue/white light has pretty poor contrast compared to something a bit more yellow. The loss of detail in shadows and poor colour reproduction are significant problems for actual visibility, which is what matters.

The oil-water heat exchangers are 100% intended to get the oil warmed up and thin as early as possible, for emissions reasons. It's absolutely the same as the timing running retarded from cold in order to throw extra heat into the coolant via the exhaust ports, as well as heat up the cat so that the engine can meet emissions. The heat exchanger is almost certainly going to do a reasonable job of keeping the oil and coolant at reasonably close temperature to each other, when the car is just streeting about, which as has been said above, is what they are designed for. And if the oil and water are both in the 80-100 window, then they will be working just as intended and everything will be happy. Push a bit harder and you will start to run out of capacity on one system or the other. the HX is almost certainly too small to move much heat from the oil to the water, especially when the water is already at ~100°C. You need both a delta T between fluids and enough surface area in the HX to move a lot of heat. One way to move more heat is for the temperature of the hotter fluid (being cooled) to climb much higher. Now it has delta T and heat can move. But, it's also too hot, in this case. The ideal system would have the HX and a suitable air cooler, and use both, and be able to bypass either thermostatically, as and when it made sense. ie, bypass the air cooler when the oil is cold, bypass the water HX when the oil is hot.

There's more than one way that a combustion chamber to coolant system head gasket failure can cause a misfire. It can let a lot of water into the chamber during the induction stroke, quenching the ignition event. It can cause a lot of compression to escape the cylinder during the ignition stroke, causing a really soft ignition even that feels like a misfire, even if it is technically not. And there's others. Here's the thing. Anyone can work this out for themselves, just by thinking about what goes on inside the engine. ChatGPT (at version 3) is an AI (Well, actually, the use of the term AI is highly misleading, but let's let the people who created it think that they have created AI) natural language processing model that can handle queries addressed to it in "natural language" (ie, as typed in, or perhaps spoken, by your normal level of ~100IQ citizen/pleb) asking such things as "how do I remove the buttplug if it feels like it is stuck?". You know, the sort of thing that you get on reddit and other dubiously useful places. The model pulls apart the sentence and tries to work out what it means. It is almost 100% based on statistical likelihoods that result from training on simply massive databases of language content, trained into neural nets or other associative models. There is no real understanding. The frightening thing is that the models are actually able to determine the meaning of the query or statement a lot of the time. Then, the model can try to provide an answer. They do this by performing web/google/database searches using search terms associated with the original query, drag together the results and summarise them into a seemingly concise answer. Often right, often really badly wrong, sometimes in very subtle ways. We had a new user sign up here recently, start dredging up old threads on useless topics, and posting replies that were clearly only half understood and could have been regurgitated from the usual sources of bad advice, such as reddit, etc. I called it out as a very likely chatbot, the admins appear to have dealt with it and it hasn't been seen since. ChatGPT4 is supposedly even more sophisticated. Released very recently. Supposedly the AI behind the new Bing assistant thing that they're trialling (with hilarious results). The way that you respond in threads has all the hallmarks of a chatbot. At least, whenever there is technical content anyway. It looks like you read the thread (in the same fashion as the chatbots do), do a search (in the same fashion that the chatbots do) and regurgitate incorrect content into the thread (just as the chatbots do). Even your posts on body kit pieces look just like it. A chatbot put to work by Aliexpress to drive traffic to the site would produce content that looks just like your posts in those threads. It is only in cases like this thread, where it would be wholely unexpected for an actual chatbot to feign ignorance of the existence of ChatGPT, where you show a glimmer of human.

Yes it can. He is wrong. He knows nothing about this stuff, so better not listen too hard. I still think that he is a GPT3/4 chatbot.

In the case of an upright motor, it's not G forces and/or lack of gravity that stops the oil returning. It's just the conflict between gas going up and oil trying to go down that does it. So dealing with the gas going up is all that is required. Or maybe a little extra area for oil to go down, too. But as we've covered in the oil control thread, rear head drains, drilled returns, etc, all do "not enough". Add a big fat breather from the sump to the top of the engine/breather system, and presto voila, the gas and the oil stop fighting for space in the engine.

That's it. It's "have a big enough sump that when you've pumped a lot of oil out of it and it's spread out through the top half of the motor, the pickup is still not exposed." Because exposed pickup means insta-death when you're under the sort of load that does that to the sump level. The oil control thread (or, the last 100-150 pages of it at least, and most particularly the one or two good summary posts in it) is the real way to manage the problem. The real problem is blowby. Lots of gas passing up through the oil returns, preventing oil from flowing down. There are ways to address all aspects of that problem. If you do not address any of those, then maxing out the sump size, especially if you have a big pump, is an absolute requirement.

Nah, it's more corrosion from not changing the coolant.

N1 pump is a factory pump. It's just ever so slightly bigger than the non-N1 pump. Does not count as an upgrade. You won't need a sump extension because of the N1. If you put a much bigger pump in then, yes, you need a larger sump to avoid sucking it dry and pasting conrods to the inside guards.

It's probably time to ask "is there a cheap way to not fix a head gasket?"