GTSBoy

You'll possibly be the first and only person with one in an R33. Most of Australia doesn't touch AEM stuff.

Well, the tacho is either working and there is just no signal to it, or the gauge itself has a problem. If the latter....god knows what to do. If the former, then you need to a) prove continuity to the appropriate ECU pin and then b) possibly hook up an oscilloscope at the dash end of the wire to see if the signal is present. The temp gauge is kinda the same just without the oscillosope, you're more looking to see if the resistance of the sensor measures the same at both ends of the wire. And as for the alt light....that would seem to be a wiring problem. Which may or may not be common with the other problems.

That kit is nasty looking shit. And it doesn't fit. It is possible the rear pods would fit better on a GTR, as the widre shape of the guards might angle the tail end of it back towards the panel a bit more, but it would still likely flap around in the breeze like horny female cat's arse end. It is distinctly possible that your car has suffered a crash and poor repair and is not the correct length, although longer would be a bit unexpected. There is nothing left to remove in the way of other skirts, etc.

The rule is the rule. Variations from the rule did not occur at the factory.

You have a fault. The fault will be random. You will need to break out the wiring diagram and the multimeter, and start fault finding. It's a manual exercise.

Given light and clean synthetic engine oil, you could do an experiment with a Facet fuel pump or similar to see if it will move enough to do the job.

I could only imagine using a small transfer pump style thingo and a solenoid valve. Valve closed all the time, open when you run the pump to prime. Can't imagine it would be fun to fit it all in though.

Gawd. I just saw the typos in my post and nearly had a seizure, until I realised that calves is easy to mistype from valves. Engine swap options are obvious. VQ35s of various sorts from later V cars and Z cars, and the same with VQ37. With or without turbo, depending on your willingness to go down that rabbit hole. Honda K? Arguably a better motor, just sounds like shit.

Oh, yeah, there's no reason to avoid using the existing plumbing. What is there can be used to make it work properly. You just have to plumb it up correctly. I re-iterate to the OP. If it is not working, it is NOT PLUMBED UP CORRECTLY. And, to follow on from Joshua's repeated suggestion that the MAC valve might have differently labelled/functioning ports compared to the usual MC valves, I posted extremely clear instructions on how to work out which port is which, earlier in this thread. So there should be no excuses there either.

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point. The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have. I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?

Surely you just go buy from Nissan genuine parts?

Well, clearly the best Rb26 is an RB25Neo

Twin charged. Series of turbo compressor and a supercharger.

Then....it's still not plumbed up correctly.

Try shining other light sources on there. Red or orange filter on a normal light, UV LED torch, etc.

Well, you could run a new fat power wire over there if you wanna get closer.

Yup. Starting to work.

What is the voltage at your pin 45 and at your pins 48/49? Is the 0.7v difference there? If so.....the problem is in your ignition switch?

I'm not sure it's all working. This is a snip of my "Unread Content" page, admittedly after I had already opened new threads that I saw on my usual forum pages. There is nothing new there - the one from you on the top has been hanging around for ages now. I don't know for sure that there is no other activity elsewhere on the site that is missing from here, but I would presume that there should be something going on in the nether recesses (like the NA forum, the VQ engined forums, state forums, etc).

Pic in the first post is of a nasty, generic, sliding caliper as found on Corollas and other shitboxen, including NA Skylines (at the front). Pic in the 2nd post is the 2-pistone opposed caliper as found on the rear of turbo Skylines.

Because they are all in the bin.

Well, yeah. Like every car since the 1970s.

No. The 350/370 era stuff is likely to be different. Might be compatible, but I don't know, and Nissan was in a state of flux at the time. The Z32 would likely be same same, for an R200 (not the R230) as it was exact same period. Earlier 280ZX etc could well be different, as they were long nose diffs (I think).

It would be the turbo, and injectors & management required to fuel it. A fuel pump would be required, and a FMIC would be expected - you wouldn't get there on the stocker. Turbo back exhaust, ditto. No mods would be required to the engine.

Nah, you see, because people say "grub screwed the crank" I always just presumed that they were actually just using grub screws. I should just know better than to take people's wordbabble at face value.