GTSBoy

Open both ends of the suspect brake line (ie, from ABS unit to caliper, or from MC to ABS unit) and simply apply compressed air.

He was talking about the thermostat in the oil cooler circuit.

OEM fan every day of the year. I like GKTech's stuff. I have no respect for that fan.

Why do people keep thinking that this is a good idea? Bad idea. bad!

Salvage .... with a new flange. Will take careful removal of material that is not tube.

I think Josh might actually be having a go at his fellow 'Muricans here.

They're wrong.

Well, yeah. They're bigger, for one thing, so they soak up more heat from stops before calling it quits. They are also stiffer calipers. The Sumitomos aren't terrible, but they are definitely not as stiff as the Brembo calipers.

100% street use, Intima SR. Absolutely no complaints.

What he^ said. The fact that rear main seals frequently need to be changed during the service life of the engine and the desire to be able to do it without having to pull the engine/sump is the reason why the seal is retained the way that it is. Just clean up the corners of where the retainer goes even more thoroughly than the rest of the job before putting the new sealant on. And as said above, a little extra dab in the corners never hurts.

That's the spirit!

Realistically, that's a chalk and cheese comparison. His RTV will be set off completely squished as a nice thin film that should have changed not at all when the bolt torque was released and changed again not at all when torqued back up. It's not as if the two surfaces actually moved apart. There might have been a tiny amount of internal tension introduced into the RTV, but if it doesn't have enough compliance to handle that, it has no role being used for the things we use it for!

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

It was my understanding that the RB26 was the same same as the RB20. The idle position was 100% determined by the switch on the RB20. The TPS potentiometer was not used for idle at all. And in fact, the potentiometer on the RB20 was only used for the auto transmission!!! The ECU paid it no heed. Of course, I might be wrong about that on the 26. But seeing as the 26 ECU was just a slightly glorified version of the 20 ECU, I have been willing to believe they used the same strategy. And further of course, maybe because the 26 was ITB fed they found they needed to actually use the potentiometer for the ECU. I could look it up in the manual, but really cannot be arsed. I might have even been schooled on this point before. It was only on the R33/RB25 era that Nissan abandoned a physical switch in favour of using the potentiometer's value as the determinant for idle position (Which was a pretty shit idea considering how much trouble it's caused people over the years. It was almost certainly done because it was cheaper than having a switch too.) It is this that has led to so much confusion between RB20 and RB25 owners.

It's never been difficult on that vintage of Nissan stuff. RB20 is same same. I just used to adjust it so that even the very slightest movement off idle would cause the injectors to do the old double pulse thing (which is the accel enrich thing that they do). You literally just listen for them to go click-click-click-clickclick.

I had a good dig around Quaife a while back. There are hints that they can do a diff for R200s, but there was some caveats around spline counts and it was absolutely unclear what style of stub shaft it would take and so on. It was enough to raise a small spectre of hopefulness without being convincing. Hence my language in my post above. I think the MFactory thing is probably subject to the same caveats. I'm thinking I need to buy a 350Z diff and shafts and put them in the shed for that rainy day also.

Yeah, 225 on a 9" is....not advisable. 235 sits straight on an 8. 225 is already slightly stretched on an 8. Note that these are for "typical" tyres in those sizes and there are always some models of tyre that are relatively fat or skinny compared to the typical ones.

No. Ancient shitbox. The sort of diagnostics that your mechanic is talking about were probably only available on top end Mercs and other leading edge stuff. A 1997 Nissan is barely more sophisticated than a 1987 Nissan.

I actually think that a 3.69 ratio in a normal 5 speed RB25 car would be good. You seldom need the shortness of 1st gear, and I often find myself wishing for a 6th taller than my 5th (any 110 km/h road would benefit). Speedo correction with my cable drive speedo is the only thing that has held me back all these years. There is also a helical for R200s made by MFactory available here in Oz for <$2k. Could be worth a look. I'd really like it if Wavetrac had one for normal R200s, or I could convince myself that the Quaife option is real. They're all proper money though. And I have more recently learnt that helicals are definitely subject to wear and do not last forever.

It will be fine.

Except that it is clearly too low at the rear (and presumably at the front) and will handle like a bucket of puss. The suspension arcs are not supposed to work with the wheel pushed that far up into the well. If you're going to run it that low then you really should be using different bushes to push the rear subframe up towards the floorpan as far as it will go, and drop spindles. Drop spindles at both ends. The GKTech ones are good, and you will need/want to use their upper and lower arms with them also.

Or you pull a bulb out and have a geez. Play "what does it look like?"

It's also possible, with some pad compounds, to bake in little diamond hard sections when they get overheated. This tends to happen on the high spots associated with surface grooves on the rotor. The pad gets squeezed really hard just on the high spots and can get really hot just there. These hard spots can squeal. This is one of the drivers towards the recommendation to scuff the pads down on a suitably abrasive surface to obtain some fresh material.

I read it as new chat thread and wondered what was wrong with the old one.

Good stuff. There had to be a better way than bodging in shitty switches. Now you just have to keep in mind that when you don't have one headlight working, it's just as likely to be the switch needing some love as it is a blown globe!