GTSBoy

Take the cluster out and look at the globes where they are bayoneted into the instrument panel. Could be loose/dirty or the globes could have broken filaments that sometimes touch and provide a circuit and sometimes just hang with an airgap.

A word of caution. Unless you were explicitly told that they are GT-R Brembos, they could also be from a Z chassis car (or slightly less easily, from some other car altogether). My caution might not be necessary, because the pads could be the same anyway, but just on the off chance that the calipers is different and has a different pad, double check the pad dimensions before committing to anything.

You could do it with relays. I have 1 relay at each headlight (as well as the original switch). This is a standard double pole switch. The two contacts you see on it are one circuit. There's another 2 contacts on the other side for the other circuit. A triple pole just has 3 sets. But do not mistake a double pole double throw switch for a triple pole. A DPDT switch has 6 contacts, but the centre contacts are the "commons" and the switch rocks back and forward between the two end terminals as outputs. So you have an "at rest" circuit and a "switched on" circuit.

You need to keep the 3 circuits separate. You either need a double pole and single pole switch, or a triple pole switch.

Hmm. That might be a bit misleading. The P for positive doesn't really mean positive static pressure. It just means that the the crankcase is positively (as in, definitely) ventilated. The driving force for said ventilation is suction from the inlet manifold. The engine is ideally under slight negative pressure when the PCV is open, but will indeed likely be slightly positive when the engine is at idle and the PCV is likely closed. Nevertheless, Murray's point is valid. You can't properly operate the engine with a crack in the cover. If it breathes at all, it will cause some problems. And it will let oil out.

Yuh, which was how I ended up with RS4. Well, also, I was expecting them to be better than RS3, and it is debatable whether or not they are.

Except that I will be going away from RS4 and back to Yokos. Will do AD09 on the basis of expectation that they will be at least as good as the AD08Rs, which have been the nicest tyres I have used in the last 10 years. The RS4s are roaring. Getting louder and louder as they wear down. Actually sound like a Patrol on big mud tyres now. Never impressed me enough (compared to AD08Rs) to justify this sort of shitty non-Jap east asian tyre noise. They're nearly as bad as KU36s were.

These things are true.

Yeah, this really does sound like a girlfriend problem more than a car problem. Have you done a pros and cons list to help you choose between them? What does she give you that the car can't?

Sweet. A little solder wiped onto the backs of the rockers can also do the trick.

Only if you f**ked up the tightening the first time. Like seriously f**ked it up.

Your experience is so common that it's not even worth asking! There are threads like this about the truly bad shops. There are threads like this about the medium-average shops. And there's threads like this about even the very best shops.

Well, the oil is fresh and shiny. Wipe everything up, put a go-pro under the bonnet and go for a drive. Look for the squirties. Failing that, tape some rags over places where they won't catch fire and go for a boosty drive. Look for tell tales on the rags. It has to be coming from a clean, filtered source with some pressure (most likely, anyway). As to the other noise, probably the exhaust manifold or turbo gasket is stuffed. They fart loudly.

Is there a difference between GTR and RWD strut towers? I wouldn't have thought so. It's only the outer guards and the subframe/chassis rail mounting points that differ.

Don't worry about 42. It just provides the earth for that globe on the switch when you turn on the parkers and get interior/dash lights. So, with no continuity between 38 and 39, now it's time to have a very close look at why that might be the case. The only way you get no continuity is if the metal bits inside are not making the required contact with each other.

You really are a special case, aren't you? I quote here directly from your earlier post..... The only change I made was to bold the critical word by which you reveal yourself to have no grasp on the topic. Call me a retard at your own peril. I mean, it's not even as if you have any credibility to throw on the fire here anyway. But, go ahead. Do it. At this point, I am really beginning to wonder if they have managed to create a combatively stupid GPT4 bot to unleash on forums. How can we get this guy to prove that he's human? If it turns out that he's a chatbot, then the forums are doomed. Everything will be submerged under thread necro replies with incorrect information thrown up with such bold confidence and massive post counts from spamming every thread with useless google result images.

Oh. Good. Grief.

I suspect that you meant "slightest". Not shooting with a full quiver of arrows, are ya? You are being a moron. Most people here already think you are a moron. You would be well advised to stop being a moron.

So, what you are saying is that you haven't broken out the multimeter and checked for continuity through the switch, for power actually passing through the switch, or at points further out on the loom? Why replace the switch if you haven't proven that it is the switch that is actually at fault? Duncan's advice on which terminals are supposed to be connected in which switch positions is step one**. After that, you plug the switch back in and start looking for 12V coming out when it is on. You can tell which side is the output because one side will be hot when it is off, and the other should also go hot when it is on. And then if it is hot, you chase down the loom towards the lights, to see where the break in the continuity chain is. **Although, I'd have to check the wiring diagrams myself, but I suspect that his listing of contacts vs low and high might be wrong. It might be more like the first pair is for parkers, the 2nd pair is for lows and the last pair is for highs, or left side and right side, or something. Or some variation on the theme. Remember that the high beams are switched on and off and flashed down on the column stalk. The relationship between the shroud switch and the column switch is best understood by looking at the full wiring diagram. Anyway, it doesn't matter. You can test for continuity and power out whether you fully understand what's supposed to happen when, or not. When you cleaned the contact pads, did you give them a light rub with medium-fine wet&dry paper? Just wiping them will often not remove the glaze. 12V is not enough voltage to burn through it. Have a look at the cams/wipers that make the rockers move. Are they worn down so that they do no push firmly on the rocker? If so, you might benefit from building them up very very slightly. Maybe a drop of hard glue and then file back to shape. Also, your description of getting the left parker working suggests that the problem is not in the switch. There's only one contact for the parkers. If one side works and the other doesn't, it tends to point to dirty contacts on the plug blades/socket. They can get charred or glazed also. It's hard to see in your photo, but the blades on the connector on the switch look pretty dark. Get some deoxit or other contact cleaner spray and have a go with that and some rough cloth on a screwdriver blade or similar.

Yes, I should buy one. I have to clean mine every year. I think the relays I added to the circuits have cut down the current so much that they don't wipe clean like they should. Dicked if you do, dicked if you don't.

You'll need to probe the appropriate terminals with a multimeter when the switch is turned on to find out if voltage is getting through the switch. Depending on what you find, you then chase along the wiring to the next loom connector, etc, looking for, finding, or not finding power. If it's not coming out of the switch, then the switch will have a problem, either mechanical or electrical (ie, carbon on the contacts, such as you have already cleaned). Close investigation can sometimes reveal what is not working. When you say you've cleaned the terminals, do you mean that you cleaned the bits we can see in that photo, or did you lift those rockers out and clean the pads on the underside of them and the pads they contact against when closed? Because wiping the top does nothing.

Yeah. Comes out of a caulking gun/squirty thing, sets to a slightly flexible but very firm consistency, much like a plastic. And then painted over. That's why it's used on seams. It can handle the slight movement between different bits of steel.

Find the R32 GTR wiring diagrams I posted to these forums a couple of years ago.

Reseal is done with seam sealer.

Yeah, I'd go Pro Sport, but I've never heard anyone complain about the more street oriented level of their gear.