GTSBoy

Yes. It's not aesthetically pleasing. And most turbos sold these days are sold for aesthetic purposes (Insta likes/fame, etc). Also its cheaper to not machine it. The hot side is the pipe with hot air in it from the turbo to the intercooler. The cold side is the pipe with cooled air in it from the IC to the engine. Anywhere after the turbo will do. Certainly before the IC is better than the IC. But there is no massive imperative to get it from the turbo scroll itself, or from no more than an inch downstream. Those are nonsense thoughts. The only thing we want is a pretty honest measurement of the pressure at the turbo outlet, and anywhere from the compressor housing itself to the inlet of the IC will read approximately the same thing. Yeah, I disagree with Tao on that one. It's fine for an engine that only runs on the dyno at full throttle (or, equivalently, a drag car that only really runs at full throttle also). But some turbos that are particularly sensitive to overspeed (ie EFRs) would quite possibly get into a lot of trouble if run that way.

The sarcasm should have been easily visible. It was dripping off it.

Whether the brakes will clear the back of the spokes comes down to the specific wheel, as well as its dimensions (ie 18x8 or whatever else size). You can have 2 different wheels of the same size and one will clear and on the other the spoke design will not clear. So your question "Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"?" cannot be answered in a meaningful way. You need that person to be using the same wheel you want to use.

I didn't even bother watching the video.

Ha, I got there4 about 1s after @PranK

If the original NA ECU has a separate TCU then you are going to need to reroute wires that used to run between the trans and the TCU to the appropriate (1 to 1 equivalent) pins on the ECU. Other than that, it should work. Look up posts by @Kinkstaah on the subject.

In which case I still think my approach would be just as easy. In fact, easier, because of all that guidance on the front side.

Are you talking about the hole at the back end that is just a hole (albeit one with some shape to it, as you perhaps say), or are you talking about the big strakes that run down the sides of the recess?

Well, yeah, but not so as you'd be able to attribute it to the weight. Went from stock R32 16x6.5s with 225s (ie, a bit bulgy) to 17x8 with 235s. So more rubber with better geometry, along with maybe a weight change. Dunno what the stockies weigh bare.

I have Enkei RPF1s in 17x8 that are 7 kg. That's about as light as it is possible to get without going forged. Apparently 18x9s are only <1kg heavier. Just the wheel, obviously.

Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".

I think this is still wrong. There is something crappy with wastegate priority (or the f**king absence of it) if you can't get below nearly double the base spring pressure. But if you're happy with what you've got, upload skid vids now.

Surely, if you have the indicator in hand and a pair of verniers, you can measure it up and draw your own cut template? I mean, it's got to pretty clear what has to pass through the hole, what has to sit on the outside face of the hole, and what has to be able to pass through and perhaps clip into place on the back side.

He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.

Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?

With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.

In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.

I used to do that, but then I got savvy. The benefits of having your phone photos geotagged outweigh the negatives. I just don't publish any photo straight off the phone/out of the gallery/off google photos, etc. If I'm going to use a photo, other than for SMSing to fam, I will always open it on the computer, copy it/otherwise edit it and save down without the original metadata, before using it. For example, posting photos of my engine bay into a thread on here, to show someone a plug or something - I will just screen-cap the section I want to use and paste that section direct from the clipboard into the post. No metadata goes along with.

Yes, so it won't work for places with no photos on the net. I would have said that there are no photos of the inside of my house on the net, but....then I realised that my kids' parties would have had bazzillions of photos of the living spaces, kitchen etc put on insta and other shitmedia. So... you can see how insidious it is.

Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).

I would suggest if you don't like advertising your home address, that the floorplan should be removed, because a reverse image search should turn up the listing. PM me if you ant it gone.

I think that might be in the question. He is going very low, and I think the standard GTR ones are simple tripod joints (like the rear NA/S chassis ones), not proper CVs (like R chassis turbo/GTR ones). Proper CVs take the misalignment better than tripods.

Done

Nah, new members can't post pics until they reach a certain post count. If I get a chance I'll promote you to full member, if @Prank or someone else doesn't get there first.

I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.