GTSBoy

Do you care to elaborate on that statement?

You wouldn't need to do the subframe swap to lose weight. The HICAS subframe doesn't weigh any different to the non-HICAS one. If you fit an eliminator kit instead of a lock bar, then it ends up being almost exactly the same as a non-HICAS setup. In the modern day and age of eliminator kits being available, you would be mental to install a lock bar and have to live with the slop in the original tie rod ends, or pay money for new ones to get rid of it. Eliminator kits kick lock bar arse. I didn't remove the various HICAS solenoids and lines for lightweight reasons. The primary reason is because they get in the way of things I want to do (particularly in the engine bay). Losing some weight is merely a bonus. Losing the 2 stage PS pump is another bonus, and/or being able to use the R34 pump that comes on the Neo without cracking the sads over HICAS not working any more (as if that was likely to be a problem!!!).

How are you with a wiring diagram and a multimeter?

The knuckles are the same but the HICAS ones have tapers pressed into them for the rear tie-rods. The non-HICAS don't have the tapers in those holes and just receive a balljoint from the toe adjustment arm. On an R32, I took all my arms of my HICAS subframe and threw it in the bin. Then I bolted up a non-HICAS subframe, including its original toe arms, pressed out the tapers, and boosted off into the sunset without HICAS trying to kill me. But, the only reason I did this was so that the entire rear end was original Nissan parts. It was so long ago that there were no HICAS eliminator kits on the market, only lock bars. Lock bars are illegal, because it is not legal to modify a steering system (not without serious engineering, anyway). The stock look of the non-HICAS rear was my solution to putting it through Regency without an argument. Which is how it played out. No questions asked. These days, a black eliminator kit would probably pass muster if it was dirty like everything else down there.

Really? How about broken switch?

The same as on any engine. TDC compression on cylinder #1 is when the piston is at the top (easily found by timing mark on crank if correct, or by feeler rod through spark plug hole if suspicious of markings) and the #1 cam lobes pointing at the sky. TDC on exhaust, the cam lobes are pointing downish. The exhaust cam will be close to closing and the inlet cam will be close to opening. We don't talk in cam degrees. There is no "180 out". You are talking about 360° out, engine degrees. And as I said, if it was 360° out, you would still get compression. All the mechanical things are still working in concert. TDC is still TDC. If the inlet valve opens just before TDC, then the engine will still ingest air. If the exhaust cam is closing at that same point, then the air will still be trapped inside the cylinder and get compressed on the next upstroke. Etc. The question of whether the engine will run or not will depend on how the ignition is timed wrt to the engine. If it was a crank driven distributor then it would attempt to fire on the wrong stroke, while the valves are on overlap. Not going to run. If the ignition timing is driven from the cam (like it is on an RB) then the engine should actually run. It's just that all the marks on the timing chain won't line up when they're supposed to so you'll have to have it 360° out to get them to line up. But, regardless, your lack of compression is far more likely to be either all teh valves are bent/stuck open, or you have another severe cam timing error (other than 360° out), if it is even possible to get it that bad.

Typo is appropriate.

Wouldn't cause no compression. It would work exactly like it should, except it would be trying to spark at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Although that depends on what exactly you meant by "180° out". 180 crank degrees or 180 cam degrees? 180 crank would be weird, but timing marks wouldn't line up. would need to be 360 crank for the timing marks to line up.

R32 with Neo & big box transplant is a thing you know.....

I'm a member of the "R33s are ugly boats" sect. There are others who like them. I just can't look at an R33 without seeing the front end of a 90s Magna with the back end of a 90s Maxima crashed into it. I vastly prefer R32s, but even there, I hate the GTSt bonnet/grille situation. And therefore I wouldn't own one without GTR parts on it. Convenient, because that's what I have. I really like R34s, although I find the sedan much less convincing than the coupe to look at. There's just something a little wrong about the proportions of the sedan. That's also true of the R32. The R33, oddly enough has the least wrongness about its proportions as a sedan - but then it just looks like an Almera or some other FWD shitter (because of the droopy bootline). The R33 really was just in an unfortunate patch for Nissan design in general.

All I said was that 20 years ago R33 sedans were an ugly pov-spec shitbox (which is unarguably true) and that I was surprised that they are now cool. Pov spec because they were much cheaper than coupes because they weren't wanted. Everyone wanted a coupe. Just like the one I have owned for nearly a quarter of a century. Ugly, because....R33. Yeesh. Shitbox, because....dirty old 90s Nissan. They're all shitboxes. Just ask anyone here.

I find it amazing that the pov-spec shitbox that I wouldn't look at for fear of damaging my sensitive eyes 20 years ago is now considered to be cool.

I don't think the GKTech ones even have motors. Just manual. It's a different beast cf a real Ganador.

Welcome. But what do you mean "start with an R31"? Do you mean that's the first one you're allowed to buy? If so, hell no. Some important points. Australian market R31s are not the same as JDM R31s. They were typically owned by broke-arse flanny wearing fishtank swap offerers, are all thoroughly stuffed from elevnty years of neglect and bong smoke. JDM R31s are as rare as hen's teeth. Used to be the ugly duckling compared to R32s (and some might say the R33 and later also, but they would be wrong!!). But now, a good R31 is probably even more desirable than a good R32, even if the car is notionally not as good as an R32, simply because they are that one more step old skool retro JDM yo! The sharper squared off lines became cool again. I'd give a limb for one of the hot ones. JDM R31s are therefore not cheap. Any and all other Skylines (R32-4) are also not cheap. Now worth at least double what they were 20 years ago. Buy what you like/can afford. There may or may not be overlap between those two!

MightyCarMods and several others like them have good YouTube videos on doing this.

Oh. For f**k's sake. 50 thou is 1.27mm which is so close to 1mm that you can just pretend that it is the same and the worst that can happen is that the duration measured at one of them will be a couple of degrees different from the other. The guy at Kelford probably should have heard about measuring duration at 50 thou because he works for a cam manufacturer and 50 thou was the standard for a million years, but it is totally understandable that he doesn't know because he is likely <30 years old, lives and works in a country that has been metricated since before 1970 and will only be using SI units in their manufacturing process because they are civilised and not trapped under the weight of 300 years of 'Murica f**k Yeah yeehaw freedom units like Crow f**king Cams is.

Just add a couple of degrees. The lift difference is literally almost nothing.

50 thou is 1.27mm. You really gunna try to get someone to add or subtract a couple of degrees from the 1.27 mm durations to make 1mm durations?

Is that caliper a 2-pot sliding caliper? The R3X 4-pots are 40.44mm pistons. So with twice as many of those as a 2 pot, it is equivalent to 57.2mm pistons in a 2-pot. R3X piston area = 4 x pi x 40.44^2 / 4. And the 4s cancel nicely, so it's just pi x d^2. = 5137.7 mm2 Entrail piston area (assuming 2 pot 44.4mm) = 2 x pi x 44.4^2 / 4 = 3096.6 mm2. Seems like a substantial change. 165.9%. BM50 MC over BM44 MC is 113.7%. Pedal travel might increase a bit.

What size is the existing MC? R32 GTSt is BM44, which is just under 1". Like 15/16 or something.

Hmm. I've pondered whether it was worth looking at these. I start this thinking at the rear, and it sort of drifts forwards to include the front for commonality purposes. Was aware of the 20mm drop and the consequent need for me to see if I have enough grooves on my Billy B6s to jack them up enough to compensate. Was not aware that there was a significant risk of them sticking out in odd places and fouling on the wheels, etc. Will influence my thinking. Is that a plastic cap on the kingpin thread?

I heard you typing that from Bunbury!

Well, of course Jaycar will have LEDs, but....there are a million other places to get them. eBay, Aliexpress, Farnell, Alltronics, Aztronics, a high level brake light from another type of car at the wreckers....

Well, there's probably nothing wrong with those caps, but they're easy to test for ESR and swap if needed, so go right ahead. That chip looks bad. Are the black contacts burnt? From heat? Anyway, if they are damaged thus, then my original point remains valid. Wiring problem somewhere else (ie, outside the respective modules). Cause a short somewhere and the high current runs to places it will do damage.

Yeah, well, what's worse is that the DIY link above used RGB LEDs driven to make white. They could have made red. Maybe not as bright, but then winding up the brightness by going white and then filtering down to red with the red plastic diffuser is probably going to have the same effect.