GTSBoy

Less likely. That's more likely to be something electrical/electronic. And that could also cause the idle problems too. For helping look for vacuum leaks, grab a can of carby/brake cleaner spray and go over the various joints. If idle changes, you've found a leak.

I can't make a recommendation based on recent experience in the west, but can for the North. If you're willing to go as far as Main Nth Rd opposite the Parafield Bunnings. All Type Crash Repair. Alan is a good bloke, likes Skylines, even the dirty Renault ones.

Happened to me last month. Finally, after 10+ years of running enough boost to put it at risk. A small pompf noise. A lot of blue smoke. A broken oxy sensor, and a short drive to my mechanic's shop, seeing as I was just around the corner when it died. And thousands of $$ spent since! Not day ruining, but bad enough.

RB30 is the path to happiness. Happiness tiinged with many moments of "why did I do this" along the way, I expect, but happiness should be the end result. If I had an 34 instead of a 32, my Neo head would be sitting on top of a 30 bottom end right now.

This still makes me scream. Totally unnecessary. And what? Why do you think there are two brushes running on the commutator bar? There is no "ground" that matters on the shaft of the motor.

There is a whole separate relay for the ignition coil supply.

Just spend the money? Ther are no off the shelf equivalents for an R32 GTR anyway. You can hardly complain about having to pay a lot of money for NOS parts for a 30+ year old car. Well, you can complain about the Americans draining the remaining supply with their retarded "must replace every part on my car as soon as it lands" mentality. But otherwise....want part? Pay money.

This is problematic. The R33 did not have the OP6 exhaust housing. So the vendor does not really know what they're talking about, regardless of whether the actual turbo is "correct" for either R33 or R34. First warning sign. And again, the differences matter. Plus something else. R34 turbos do not have plastic comp wheels. Alloy. There is very little to no risk of ceramic turbine making its way back into the engine on a single turbo. That is pretty strictly a GTR thing, which must come down to the straight shot from the turbine scroll back into the exhaust manifold and port opposite. It is essentially unheard of on single turbo engines. Nevertheless, I would concur with Joshua. Why would anyone want to spend money to put the stock turbo back onto an RB? It's just mental. Buy a decent upgrade, win at life.

I know nothing of the AEM ECU. But....is it a modern ECU? As in, does it have a built in oscilloscope so you can inspect the signal waveform from the CAS? Do you have access to a handheld oscilloscope? They're <$200 from Aliexpress. You can use these to watch ECU input signals and output signals. So you can watch the pulse widths on the injectors. If you're not getting at least a recognisable pulse at the iinjector, then.... that would explain the no fuel. A noid light is the older way to do this. And....weak spark sounds like it is a part of the problem. The question obviously has to be, "why is it weak?". Do you have power delivery problems at the coils? Do you have a bad earth? Is the ECU crook in some way? Does it just come down to not having a good signal from the CAS (I'd hate to think so.)? Have you verified that the timing marks on the front are actually in the correct relationship to TDC? No point worrying about being 60° retarded if its just the pulley that has slipped. Then you have other things to worry about!

Only put grease on parts of the shaft that run in bushes. So, maybe the LH end of that photo. But only if it runs in a bush. If it runs in a rolling element bearing, don't bother. If there is a bush at one end, it is likely bushed at both ends. Ditto bearings. Don't grease the commutator.

Yeah, nah. Daewoo owned by GM, not Holden. Holden at the bottom of the GM pile along with Daewoo. Yeah, nah. Never actually been owned by Japanese. Obtained a lot of stuff from Mitsu though. Yeah, nah here too. Ford and Mazda have tie up. Ford have never been in a position to buy a Korean. The only one you hit the nail on the head with was the Nissan/Renault thing. Nissans have been dirty Renaults for a long long time. Since the end of the golden era, really.

See, this is the bit I don't follow. What gaps? If you're filling gaps between the brushes and the comm bars, ie radial gaps, then the brushes aren't touching the comm bars and you get no connection. Brushes are supposed to wear to rub smoothly on the comm bars. There is no need for lubrication. Graphite is a solid phase lubricant already.

The lack of conductivity is the reason to use dielectric grease. Think about it. Do you realy want a potentially (hah! pun intended!) conductive grease bridging the gaps between commutator bars? No. I didn't think so. Would somewhat defeat the purpose of a comm bar, wouldn't it?

Commutator. Normally use shropping tape (fabric sandpaper) on a lathe to clean those up. Not to worry about rubbing through it with Brasso! Grease is problematic. Maybe dielectric grease, but "making up wear gaps" is not a function that grease fills.

Teflon lined hoses? They shouldn't hold on to any metal bits, because they're pretty smooth. Just a damn good flush with lots of water and possibly then some solvent. If paranoid, you could try to pig them by pushing through something (fabric wads, earplugs, tampons) with a skinny and long enough rod. Or you can attempt to pull them through by attaching same to pull wire that might be easier to pre-thread on a longer hoses. Cooler? Throw it away.

I'd forgotten that Greg had had a bad time with the Jaycar box - I just presumed that it worked. Yes. The answer would be a fairly simple Arduino project. Just need some math to read the frequency of the incoming and generate a new sawtooth wave with the adjusted frequency. Probably wouldn't even have to be that clever to get it done. I imagine that there's lots of example code you could steal, and it wouldn't matter how cludgy or inefficient it was.

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed. Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19. Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19. Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

They've been posted on these and other forums before. The R34 and R33 workshop manuals also have useful wiring diagrams. Have a look at https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals https://www.scribd.com/doc/5332929/Nissan-Skyline-R34-Workshop-Manual-English Even the R32 GTR wiring diagram, that I have scanned and posted on here, will help, because the circuit for the brake lights is probably all same same. Wire colours, fuse numbers, etc, will possibly be different. But at least you can look at it to see how things are laid out.

You shouldn't ask these questions. You should instead open up the wiring diagram and follow the circuits. You will see that the tail light fuse has nothing to do with the brake lights. You will see that the brake lights are their own thing. The other thing to remember is that typically, such circuits in cars are supplied with 12V out at the load itself and that 12V comes all the way back to the switch and the switch connects to ground when closed. This we call "earth switching". The power is not "supplied" by the switch. Power is always available. The switch gives earth to the circuit. But this is where you really need the wiring diagram, because not all circuits in cars are earth side switched, and a novice can very easily get very confused.

No. You have to interpose the Jaycar unit in the wire from the speed sensor on the gearbox to the input on the cluster. The Jaycar unit's job is to adjust the signal going into the cluster. Let's say that your speedo is currently reading 16% fast (4.11/3.54). The Jaycar box will take in the frequency of the sawtooth signal on its input line and feed out an output that is slowed down to get rid of that 16%. Effectively applying an 86% (ie, 3.54/4.11) factor to it. Or, given that you will likely be using a GPS speedo to work out what the actual vehicle speed is, some factor that is close to but likely a little different to 86%, which would also dial out the original speedo error.

You don't need to worry about the cluster's output. If you get the input right, the cluster's output will be right. The way the Nissan speed sensors and speed signals work is: The speedo sensor in the gearbox/transfercase/diffsnout/wherever generates an alternating current (more or less sawtooth) voltage waveform that varies frequency with vehicle speed. (It also changes voltage, getting larger as it turns faster - but that doesn't matter). The speedo head reads that sawtooth waveform and uses it to drive the speedo needle position. The speedo head also outputs a 0-5v squarewave PWM signal that is the VSS (Vehicle speed signal) to the ECU and any other CU on the car that wants to know vehicle speed. Traditionally, on older cars, there was only the one VSS. But if the 34GTR puts out 2 such, who am I to argue? Anyway, as you can imagine, if you get the input signal right, the cluster will take care of the rest. All you need to do is use the Jaycar module to either speed up or slow down the frequency, as required.

So, start at the brake lamp itself, probe the loom with the multimeter, follow the wiring back until you find where the power is getting into it. If you have disconnected the spot from whence the power is supposed to come, and you still have power, then the power is likely coming in from a spot with damaged insulation in the loom. There is no relay.

I was going to say "how often are you flat towing friends' broken down cars?"....which is flat out illegal in every state in Australia, when I realised that you're in the wild wild east, where it seems to still be normal.

The click won't be a relay. The click will likely just be in the pivot/spring of the pedal. The switch is likely collapsed. Break out the multimeter and fault-find.

Yes.... I guess this is one of the possible QA/QC issues that we will bump into using 3rd party gearsets.