GTSBoy

Really, after just half an hour? There is no way that I would want an engine with only 8.4:1. What management are you using? Anything with good management for knock control should have no fear of running at least mid 9s.

If you're just changing the CW&P, then nothing else in the diff changes and you don't need to consider the axles (neither the stubs or driveshafts). I presume that it is nothing more than CW&P required at each end of the car, seeing as it's been done any number of times by others. If it was a circus, you'd hear about it being a circus.

As far as I know the spot that breaks most commonly is on the exhaust side, adjacent to #4 or between 4/5. So any unnecessary weakness on the exhaust side, even if it's not is the "usual" spot, can't be a good thing. And between 3 & 4 is not so far away from where the block likes to jump to pieces.

I would say that that is the beginning of the end for that block. Is that the exhaust side?

This is the key statement again. There is no point in trying to pick a number to make the flycuts because you're as likely to get it wrong too close as wrong too loose and one will stop your assembly effort as bad as waiting to measure anyway, and the other is a waste.

I love my helical in the rear*. It makes the drive feel like it is coming from the outside wheel - even more so than a conventional LSD. *When it's actually installed that is. It's been out for so long that I think I've forgotten what it feels like. Must get back onto that when I get home again! Yeah. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Enough handbrake to get me out of the ditch can be enough to ruin the clutch!

There's some driveways I can't get my car in/out because it props a rear wheel halfway through and loses all drive. You can't bull run it either because they're the sort of driveway that would kill the front bumper if you tried it.

Ah. I should have thought of that. The speedo drive being on the transfer case means that the gearbox isn't part of the equation. The TX case is the same thing regardless of auto or manual. In which case, I revoke my claim.

Helical diffs absolutely cannot chatter like clutch diffs.

It is vert unlikely that the speed sensor from the auto will fit into the manual. The boxes are from completely different manufacturers. They don't swap between auto and manual on any of the RWD boxes, so there's no reason to expect that they do on the AWD (which I've never stopped to think about before).

You need to trailer it to an auto-electrician before it burns to the ground.

These things are the only things that really determine your power. Can't make more power than the injectors will flow (which maxes out in the territory of 1000 engine HP on 98) and can't make more power than a GT3582 will at the boost and flow you'd get out on the top RH edge of the map against a 2.5l engine (whilst maintaining a reasonable compressor efficiency so it doesn't get all hot and stupid, of course). This may or may not be a good choice.

Would be very unlikely. Neo combustion chambers are about 10cc smaller than the vanilla 25s, and the compression goes through the roof. Neos use RB26 rods and different pistons, with the differences being in the height of the pin and the shape of the crown. There is less dome, so they don't stick up into the chamber as far.

Perhaps, if you have to have another shot at this, try using a file. Punch lays flat on a steel workbench/piece of flat bar & held there. File kept as parallel to the surface as possible and pushed across the punch. Rotate the punch a little after every stroke. Will be slow, but will eventually get there and is not quite as violent as trying to lay a really thin punch remnant up against the grinder. Or, do what you can with the grinder, then when you get down to the limit of comfort, change over to the file.

Have you ever felt 800? It will take you a fair while to move any metal with it. Start with 320 or 400. Only rub a little until you feel the peak come down. Then think about maybe going finer.

It's not as if Nissan ever wrote a service manual covering this stuff.

You have it in your hand. Have you tried putting power on it straight from a 12v supply? Looked inside for broken connections or exploded LEDs?

So, if you do not know what fittings are needed on your turbo, then don't buy anything until you have the turbo.

So much smarter to just wait.

Again - you have the car in your possession. Do the measurements yourself.

Not for an R33. The R32 GTR wiring diagrams are posted on here, by me, sometime in the last couple of years. The ATTESA CU's are not the same, but the power and earth terminals might be.

All of that is true. What is also true is that when you put a space saver on a car you should drive very gently and carefully and not like a meth addled 19yo disco chick.

http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/flat

That monitors the voltage where the turbo timer is connected. Will not tell you if you have a problem where the ATTESA CU is powered. You need a multimeter, manually probe the power connections while you wait for the AC to cause the light to come on.

Why would you do that? The body is one big piece of steel wire.