GTSBoy

Is it RWD or AWD? If RWD, just never put the spare on the rear. Double swap front to left if need be. If AWD, again, probably do the same and just don't exert enough right foot to transfer any torque to the front axle?

No. Yes, sounds like a wiring fault, like insulation damaged on 2 adjacent wires (one from AC, the other from ATTESA CU to dash, for example). No. But it does sound like you have at least a version of the usual mode door actuator failure.

If we knew what was wrong with it we could answer this question. These sorts of across the internet diagnostics are close to impossible. It always turns out to be something like "a rat ate one piece of wire and a solar flare damaged this other component and I found a stick of salami in the boot that was crimping a hose over". Take it to a decent mechanic/auto elec.

Yes, because.... implies that there was a pod filter of some sort on there and some of these use oiled fabric/foam filter elements, not paper. Which is a very bad idea on AFM equipped cars So it was a sensible question. Have you got any ECU fault codes? Have you got a gaping hole in a boost pipe somewhere?

The 3.6ish ratio out of S chassis diff not tall enough for you? Can't help on the shafts. Have just been assuming that because they are the big GTR style 6 bolt ones, that you might end up running GTR or maybe Z32 shafts. Or maybe Driveshaft Shop ones if you're baller. Here's a similar-ish thread from not too long ago.

Yeah, but it's connected to the atmo side of the turbos, so there's no boost to leak. It's just a big, lazy cludge.

Yeesh. At least they didn't ruin an R32. </Fu(kin' Transformers bullshit>

The (stock) BOVs live down there, on the intercooler return pipe. That pipe there is the return that goes back across to the other side of the engine bay to return the air to the turbo inlets.

You can't edit your posts after a couple of hours. This to prevent a brand of shenanigans that we used to have trouble with. Just report it and ask an admin to do what you want done.

That line that runs from the closer T piece and heads to or under the crossover pipe. Is it connected to the crossover pipe nipple there or is it connected to a steel pipe that goes further forward?

Yeah, well, obviously that's only at lowish loads, because we're not going to run anywhere leaner than about 12.5:1 with decent boosts on board. And you'd have to be somewhat of a numpty to not set up closed loop cruise and idle. Wouldn't you?

You would be best to retain a cat. A nice big low cell count cat will do something to clean up the exhaust and largely prevent the big black stain that would be a giveaway to the above if you just had a 1 cell cat.

So.....get Jesse Streeter or one of the other guys running export businesses in Japan to buy it and send it to you.

Yeah, wot he ^ sed. The vac line has to be from the plenum.

Just take the whole tailshaft out and reassemble it on the floor. I would have never attempted to split the CV for a gearbox removal. The whole tailshaft is like 10 minutes extra work.

Looks like it would all go in and out through the engine bay like my RB + 25DET box did. :p

It will simply be a complete pain in the cock to do it on the floor. Possibly to the point that you can't manage it and/or end up hurting yourself. It's a big, heavy piece of crap with asymmetric weight distribution and that whole "rotate it and rotate it back" business is hard enough when you're standing under it on a hoist with the trans on a proper gearbox stand. More often than not you get it on and the clutch hasn't aligned properly and it has to come back off again anyway! If I had to do what you're doing I'd prefer to do engine and box together, out and in through the big hole in the top!

You're not swapping a 25DD with any other engine without it being a big exercise. A proper timing chain inspection requires the front covers to come off so you can see the state of the tensioners and guides (which might be worn) and assess the amount of chain stretch.

I think it is one and I wouldn't try to take it out unless it has a problem.

It's not the Dayco, whether it fits or not. Buy a Nissan one.

It's not just the cleanliness of the sensor element that can cause problems. Dry and cracked solder joints inside the casing, or corroded pins in the plug/socket can cause shitty behaviour. CAS, ditto. The fuel gauge is of no importance. The pump and the gauge have nothing to do with each other except being in the sample place. The pump might be dying and giving low pressure, either all the time or intermittently. Or the fuel filter could be shitty or fuel hose could be falling apart and causing moving blockage. You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and keep it on unti you experience the shitty behaviour and see if the pressure goes to poop at that time. Injectors could be crook. But.....as to maintenance, they are essentially maintenance free. 20 year old injectors should be fine if they haven't been fed a diet of dirty fuel. And injectors are seldom intermittent. They're either dirty or not. Although, having said that, the connectors could be a problem, as per the other items.

This is either going to be (in no particular order); Bad AFM wiring connection, or dirty AFM element, Bad CAS wiring connection, or possibly dirty optical disk, Bad fuel pump. As in, possibly dying, ore maybe it has a dodgy wiring connection. Could also be the FPCM (assuming there is one). Maybe bad O2 sensor, but would seem unlikely from the symptoms.

Well, yeah.

The physical location of the plugs for reverse and neutral switches, the absence of the inhibitor switch wiring. You basically have to remake it if you don't have it, because the R & N switches are not down on the side of the auto box.

It's much better to have the manual driver's side loom and swap it in.