GTSBoy

I just don't know about JMS, is all. I bought my R32 through them....24 years ago. Then their name got dragged through the mud with all the importing stuff other than cars shenanigans, change of ownership, change of ownership, etc etc. Gone from my sphere of knowledge.

Dunno. There probably are. The RB25DEs are known to valve float at boosts that wouldn't happen on a DET. If you're just hoping to avoid having to buy some good springs.....you're worrying about the wrong things. Spending money in the engine is a good thing.

You gotta stop posting on your phone. And whilst I can see people using imperial length units and even psi and similar, because those are still very convenient units to work with if you're familiar with them.....pounds as a unit of weight is just cracked. I mean, the pound when talking about weight is not even the same pound in psi. I can freely convert between BTUs and Joules in my head. Same with feet, inches, yard, to SI. Same with most pressure units. Same with some viscosity units, etc etc etc. But imperial weights and forces are stupid. They have 9 different sorts of tons, weight and force units that sound the same but have a factor of 32.2. For some reason they like to measure pressure as a column height of some random liquid, then wonder why their shit doesn't work on Mars.

Yeah, I was hoping that that wasn't a thing.

Lives in Sydney, talks in pounds. Weird. And, on that theme, you're not going to find wheels that save you much weight over what you've got. Not trying to dissuade you from putting whatever wheels on you like, just pointing out that there's not a lot of weight saving to be had there. Ditto the front seats. You want to put a road legal seat in it, expect it to not weigh much less than the original seat. If you're serious about getting the weight out of it, there's speakers and the stock amplifier, all the HICAS componentry, the tool kit and boot lining/trim, rear seatbelts, headlining, interior lights, carpet and underlay, rear half of console. Removing much of that will save you the equivalent of a couple of bags of shopping and make it a miserable place to be. (Just pointing out that lightweighting a street car is a bit of a waste of time).

Welcome. That's very nice. Question. Are you planning to put Tomei turbos on because you think they are a good thing?

Jaustech have a good rep. I can also point you to someone who will hate me for sending another dirty datto his way as he'd much rather work on Supras. But he also knows everything there is to know about RBs, Skylines in general, and all the other dirty dattos.

If you do this.... ...then you don't have to worry so much about this.... Besides, if it were me, I'd be wanting to know I had a shop close to home that is useful for such things anyway.

Besides which - you really want to get the engineer on board and everything that you need to do agreed before you do the work. The fact that the car has to go to QLD for the work is not sufficient justification for making dealing with the engineer harder (because of distance).

Yes, it's a thing, and that is why you would be wasting your time to get the mod plate first. When yo first asked your question, I took your meaning to be that the car was already engine converted and mod plated in QLD. And yes, you will need to do a brake test/demonstration of some sort. Murray got in before I typed any more, so I shan't. Except to say, who is to say that your big brake kit actually does what it says on the box?

Oh, it's not quite as bad as all that here in SA. The cops can and will be dicks, but not always. If you have the paperwork on hand for mods that have been through Regency and approved if/when you are pulled over, then the decent cops will go over that and compare with what they see. An obvious swap from a VQ to an LS is not hard to understand. If a brake upgrade is required and was on the car when it was inspected, it would be very unreasonable to suspect that the big brakes were pulled off and replaced with the stockers. No-one would want to do that even if they were a tightarse meth addicted loser from the outer suburbs. But, if the LS had a seriously lumpy idle, massive exhaust noise, MAFless intake, etc etc, ie all signs that it has since been modified (and would not have likely been approved at Regency inspection), then you can assume that the cops will just sticker it and make you prove it's as-approved. The usual story here is people get a car inspected with coilovers on it, which is doable, then go and drop it into the weeds the day after the inspection. "But it was approved yesterday" means nothing, as Nightcrawler suggests.

I'm pretty sure that there is no reciprocal recognition between the 2 states' agencies. I would be surprised if having a QLD mod plate and supporting doco didn't make it a lot easier to convince a NSW engineer to give you a cert. You would still have to satisfy whatever demands the engineer has on top of whatever differences NSW will have cf QLD.

You know. I'm a bit dense. I should have thought of that! It's not as if I didn't fit an R34 NA box to my R32 at one point, and removed the electronic sender from it!

Unless someone has pulled shenanigans, they are 26 rods. So stop fretting. If you really have to know, put a cheap (like $30) USB borescope up there. They have a 90° mirror attachment and a light. You'll be able to see the casting numbers.

It's FOT. but the value in the R32 GTR manual is defo what you should use.

Seems to me that lifting the idler up vertically a tiny bit is what is required. A little less positive action on the PS belt perhaps, but.....clearance from what's below.

Heads will swap. No squirters in the DE block of course. Cranks are same. Neo DETs definitely have RB26 rods. I can't tell you if DEs have 26 rods or not, but I'd be surprised if they did. It has been so very many years since I saw some, but I think they were toothpicks, like a lot of Toyotas. CAS is same. No reason for it to be different. ICAV - I dunno. It hardly matters anyway. Just make whichever one work, or go E-throttle to piss all that dirty Nissan shit off. Probably 4.11. But it could even be different between manual and auto. In the RWDs, the manual turbos are 4.11, the autos are 4.08, for some stupid reason.

My opinion on big rears? They gotta be the right size.

Whether you need a programmable ECU will depend on whether the coils will be happy running the factory RB20 ECU dwell time. I think for yaris coils, Audi coils, Nissan pencil coils, etc, they're all fine running original dwell. I think the suppliers of these kits might be confusing themselves wrt the dwell question, because back when people used to use LS coils as an upgrade, they were definitely not happy with the factory RB20 dwell time. But...."programmable ECU" is a triviality on an RB20. Just put a Nistune board in it. I cannot imagine running any Nissan ECU without Nistune in it. Why would you put up with all the factory stupidity, when you can get rid of the R&R, run more boost, make more power, make it cruise leaner and use less fuel, etc?

Oh, Power mode will also make it kickdown earlier, possibly make the shifts a little faster. But none of that really matters. It will do what it does, and because it's an auto it will still suck. But right now it doesn't appear to do anything.

That's why he has quote marks around the 600 HP. If someone has 570, they will round that up to 600. And 320kW is barely more than 300, so easily meets the description of "about 300 kW. And if you use a 25% discount for a roller dyno, those numbers are the same thing.

It's just a digital input to the TCU. There's no secret magic. Break out the multimeter and start probing that input with the switch on and off and see if the circuit is connected properly. If it is reliably detectable (that you have turned the switch on) and the TCU doesn't activate power mode, then there is either a problem in the TCU or there is some other input that the TCU is not happy about. If the only change you made was to the engine and ECU, then it is remotely possible that the ECU is not providing some signal that the TCU wants to see to be happy. This is more common with later ECU/TCU combos than early. They talk to each other on a data bus, not discrete signals. The other possibility is that you have simply created a wiring problem when you pulled it all apart and put it back together. A broken wire or faulty multi-pin connector perhaps.

Yeah nah. I typically discount roller dyno numbers, particularly for powerful RWDs by 25%. 600 engine HP will usually turn up as significantly less than 500 wHP. There's a lot of problem these days with hub dyno numbers becoming more common, making people think that the gap between chassis dyno and engine dyno numbers is smaller than it is - because it is smaller with hub dynos. The loss at the tyre-roller interface is removed, and it can be very large, and it is also very variable, depending on the tyres, the condition of the rollers, the way the car is strapped down and the amount of power being transmitted.

Same same

Yes. Just google "RB20 coilpack upgrade R35" or something similar. If you're in Oz there are going to be at least a few different kits.