GTSBoy

Just for come clarity - we need to straighten out terminology. "Ignition cables" is usually taken to mean the high tension (voltage) thickly insulated spark plug leads used on engines with remote mounted coils. A "distributor" is a mechanical spark distribution device that distributes the spark out from a single coil to as many cylinders as need it. You don't have either. What you have is ignition wires (from the ECU to the igniter, and from the igniter to the coils), and the igniter, which is merely a box with 6 transistors in it. The only way to test the ignitor is swaptronics. Pretty much ditto the coils. If you move a bad coil to a good coil's position and the miss goes with it, it's the coil. But if the miss stays in position it's the wiring or the igniter. Then you swap the igniter to a known good one to rule that out. Or you could swap the coil loom to a known good one to rule that out (they can be bought). Although, I don't know why you would buy either, when you could follow the recommendation I gave in your other thread.

Just don't run one. Convert to pencil coilpacks with the igniter built in. Many Toyota, Audi or later Nissan (VQ, VR) options exist.

Yuh, a bit of flat bar with 3 holes in it.

I know. Right?

This is obvious. Put it where it will get triggered by about 50% throttle!

Well, that's just it. Garrett don't even bother with internal gate twin scroll housings. BW have them for the same market segment, but it doesn't mean that they're actually a good way to control boost. You'd be far better off utilising an external gate. And here's the kicker. You have a manifold already set up to just do exactly that. So.....just put an ATP housing a G30 or use the Pulsar per @Lithium, and throw an external gate on the manifold and it will all be great.

GTSt is different sort of drug money. More a spray paint/solvent habit than pills or powder.

It's a 3L block so he might have a little more vertical clearance to help with the engine mount, but I'd still worry about the space to the side of the engine bay. The problem is you have 2x small flaps instead of 1x large one. For the space available and taken up by the 2x small flaps, you can't get anywhere near as much flow area as you can in a single scroll setup. So there's not really any such thing as a "modern internal wastegate" where they description is expressing some hope that they've managed to improve the design of something that has almost no improvement available.

I was going to say the 900 also. The 770 would probably do it, especially seeing as you're proposing to use the same exhaust housing whichever way you go. But the 900 should still rip on a 3L bottom end. But, A word of caution. Will you be able to fit that turbo on the low mount HKS manifold? There's not a lot of room down there for a biggun. Is the top mount wastegate offtake common to both halves of the manifold? If so, then that's a bit shit. Kinda ruins the point.

Ethanol or 98?

Dunno on a 33. The core is buried under the dash on any car and is no fun to get to. The TX valve could be also, or could be on/near the firewall behind the turbos. It's a job for a fridgy anyway.

I'm as close to normal as any of us and I daily a bloody R32 that is appreciating into the stratosphere and rapidly becoming irreplaceable. /TotallyNormal!

Just do a long smoky burnout on the street. Cheaper and easier than breaking it at track and just as good for testing the idler and the gearbox. Bonus, if you get it confiscated, then you can stop bitching about it.

Ignore. Typed a fluffy answer.

If it's freezing the evap core over, then it's not a leak/gassing problem, or a compressor problem. It would be a TX valve problem, not cycling the compressor off when the core gets cold enough. So either the TX valve stuck or the temp sensor come off the core.

There is no difference between an RB25 and an RB20 exhaust for the same car. It's the same engine, near as dammit.

Is it on auto?

I have quoted myself. It is not plug and play. You will have to integrate the looms. Different cars, different wires doing different things. All in the engine bay.

Well, that's hard to believe. How do all the GTRs run aftermarket ECUs against the (basically) same ATTESA CU?

No. The clutch is different on the NEO DET. It's a pull clutch, whereas everything else (except R33/4 GTRs) is push. Your existing box and the 33 turbo box should both be push. But it's not as if it matters. Just use a clutch to suit whatever box you end up using.

It's no cost at all for a workshop to buy a scantool that will confidently work with almost anything.

Not only would you not have to Nistune the ECU, but you actually cannot. The R33 ECU is different to all the others and won't take a daughterboard. The R33 does not have TCS and so doesn't care if transplanted into a chassis without it. The R34 ECU expects TCS. There is one option there though, which is to get a Neo from a Stagea, as they did not have TCS either. But, I would be at least Nistuning the ECU so you can tune the bloody thing anyway, so a Stagea motor is not really a solution to a problem that needs solving by any other means than Nistuning anyway. I'm not sure what you're asking here. Are you asking if you can transplant the exact same engine that you already have? The R34 GT has an RB25DE Neo already. There is no particular reason for your existing engine to "blow". They are tough and understressed.

I have communicated with all of the (steadily decreasing number) of CUs in my R32, using a Snap-On scan tool. Snap-On are just implementing the Consult protocol.

No. You will have NO option but to Nistune the ECU or use an aftermarket ECu to run the Neo because it will have a shit fit over the absence of the TCS CU.

Yes. Yes, it will mate. But, this is not a trivial swap. You will need to sort out ECU and engine wiring, as they are not simply plug and play. You will need a fuel pump, stronger clutch, intercooler and plumbing. You really should upgrade the brakes. By the way - this question has been asked on here about 1000 times before.