GTSBoy

CFD stands for Colourful Flashy Diagrams. Also Confusing Fcuking Dickheads.

I really love it when people create smoothly distributed pulse-free gas inlets and outlets with no upstream or downstream geometry, no pressure fluctuations (which are actually waaaaay more than just fluctuations in a turbo manifold) on things like manifolds, then present a steady state solution instead of a transient solution. It's so sad. And, to use the CFD that's built into Solidworks and present that as if it is any bloody good at all it even sadder.

Ceramic coating the piston crowns would have to be about 3x as easy to achieve and 3x as effective, no?

Same same

My takeaway from the last 2 videos is that you should sleeve an RB block before it splits the bore!

Le sigh. For what car? A 2011 Mini Clubman?

Not going to speak authoritatively on the GTR tank.....but almost all plastic tanks are HDPE.

What sort of speed sensor was used in the C34 auto? An electronic sender like in the typical RB25DETmanua l box? Because, if so, you are shit out of luck. The RB20DET speedo is usually by cable drive. I don't know of any electronic drives for that gearbox. There are for the related 4 cylinder gearboxes in Silvias etc, but I don't know if they are useful. So, where is this odd "half" speed signal coming from? If you can identify if it's coming from a diff sensor or ABS sensor (ie, that's the original way it was on the C34) then you might be able to just use a speedo adapter box like you can get from Jaycar and various auto-electrical crowds.

Further in or out than what? Some other wheel? If just the guard lip - they will be inside. But possibly only on one side at the rear, because the subframe seldom sits in the middle.

Don't put the Z32 in the cooler pipe. (Is that a Z32? It doesn't look like a VL AFM, but my memory for them is not great). You have to cut the plastic housing up and find a way to glue/hose clamp it onto the pipe. There are no useful "adapter" for something that has a hose barb at one end and a 4 bolt flange at the other. You could make a matching 4 bolt flange that has a hose barb on it and insert the whole AFM into the boost pipe using 2x silicone joiners, but then you would have 4 more hose clamps heady to pop off. And the hose barb on the AFM is not intended to clamp a hose against boost - it's designed to live on the suction side of the turbo. The correct course of action is to buy a blade style AFM (ie VQ or VR) and an alloy mounting boss (available off the shelf almost everywhere) that can be welded direct onto an alloy cooler pipe. Don't argue. There are a bunch of real shit ways to do this, and a good way.

Ah, the joys of living in the crime zone. I have no such anxiety where I live.

Ya vids don't work

Well......the only obvious choice would be "from stock".

They won't be flush at 8"+28. Say what? There would have to be hundreds of trustworthy wheel houses in the US. You have 15x Australia's population and I can think of 5 people I would trust to do work on wheels, just in my state of 1.7M people. And price is not a factor. Quality work on wheels is not cheap anywhere.

On an R33, no I don't. To be honest, I don't even know if you can get just the motor out on an R32, and I'm not at home to check my R32 workshop manual (or the R33 one that is there, either). I have a couple of spare R32 mechanisms in the shed, and just looking at them (or, in this case, the memory of looking at them!!) suggests that you probably have to pull the whole lot out. But I shouldn't imagine that it's much more work anyway.

I can tell you that it definitely takes less than that for the tyres to go out of round. So consider some of those curved supports/chocks or put it on stands, if you can.

This describes me exactly. Not because I don't want to drive the car, but because I've been stuck in WA for most of the last 18 months and only get home once in a blue moon. I've been driving a series of nasty, forgettable hire cars (En-Trail, HyStrionic, ASeXual, etc) that all have push to start. When I get home, the spiders have completely colonised the car and I have to get the leaf blower out to remove the buildup of detritus and chisel the crap off the windscreen before I can move it.

Yeah, that's the GPT 3 chatbot that I've been bitching about and reported every one of its posts that I've seen so far. They must be destroyed.

Ahhh. Greg's rage is palpable from here. A version of Greg's ragey recommendation would be to look at https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/transmission-control and see that it should be possible to get this transmission (or, more sensibly, a turbo transmission, for the longevity reasons raged about) working direct from a Haltech ECU. Having said that, in light of I can't speak for your tuner's willingness to get involved in trying to program the transmission control. He might not know that it's possible. He might be scared, or too lazy, or any of a number of other reasons. Regardless, as per Greg's rage out - there is wiring to be done. You have to obtain all the wiring that is currently present at the TCU, work out which wire is which input and which output (and which might be able to be ignored, if they were originally signals to/from the ECU) and then marshal them to the Haltech. But.....this now I think leads us to the answer. The TCU is probably having a shit fit because you have removed the factory ECU. It will not be happy about that, because they like to talk to each other. The TCU relies on some info from the ECU to do its thing, and not having that would be enough to make it go to limp mode. So, some of Greg's rant regarding putting the factory ECU back in, in parallel with the Haltech would be a (shitty) path forward. Just wire it to the Haltech and get someone competent to set it up.

pfffffftt! Easier. Just plug a hack box of whatever type is required for that car and dial up the number you want it to show. No need to fudge with the physical wheels or drive it with a power drill or anything.

You do know that literally every car that has ever been exported from Japan has had a windback, right? Usually more than one.

In that case, your options look to be; Measure the resistance of the airbag connection on the seat you took out. That's the value resistor to connect to the loom plug. Bonus points for setting off the airbag with the multimeter's battery. Just a resistor substitution box onto it, set to some value maybe half what you used on the steering wheel. Gradually increase the value on the substitution box until you stop getting the light. That's the value resistor to connect. American fix. A black sticker over the light on the dashboard. Well, that's not strictly true. If it's an LED on the PCB, you've already missed your opportunity to "pull" the globe by just desoldering the LED from the PCB. Would have taken 2s plus warmup time.

No, it would just be pig rich. But.... if perchance the fuel pressure reg is not working at all and it's still delivering 50 psi once there is some vacuum (when it should drop to 30something psi at idle) then it could be too rich to want to keep running. So, identifying a possible problem with the measurement of the pressure is the first step towards seeing whether there is actually a problem with pressure. Faulty instruments are often worse than no instrument.

Are you describing an opportunity here?

We're staring to get many more threads where we have to suggest a different engine builder/mechanic/tuner/. Too many cases of silly things being believed/said. Nissan valves are in fact quite good, but....they're certainly nowhere near as good as really nice aftermarket valves.