GTSBoy

He's not after height. He's after length.

Oh, and we will. There's nothing like spending $50k to remove 100kg from a bloody Stagea!

Yeah, I was thinking that you'd probably end up wanting to weld nuts on the underside of whatever holes you put in the lift faces and then you can throw some bolts down through the beam, or maybe through some flange/tabs welded on side. I like the idea of the tabs on the side as it will help to stabilise the beam from rocking left-right. You could whiz 4 bolts in on each side of the lift with a cordless thingo in a couple of minutes, and the surface would be left flush when they're not there.

I would look at boxing in some small dimension I beam that you attach to the top of the lift to provide the extension you need. The boxed I beam to make it as stiff as possible and also twist resistant. You'll want to come up with an easily installable/removable connection to the lift face so you don't have to leave them there. Something that you can trust to be firmly attached when in use.

Yuh, my carbon recliners on steel runners and mounts would be lucky to be lighter than the stockers. Probably heavier.

Here's the rules. 1. If the engine is coming out, and you really don't want to pull it out again, (and no-one really wants to pull it out again), then you do absolutely everything that has to be done. That list depends on whether you want to do the barest minimum, and therefore are not doing much in the way of upgrades, or if you want to do a few small upgrades....just 'coz. But that last bit leads to you having to do ABSOLUTELY everything. 2. As the guys above say - no GTR should have the engine come out and go back in with a stock diff. Quaife front centre is the very best thing you can do there. 3. Because you want to upgrade the power, then you want to upgrade the oil pump. But you cannot consider upgrading the oil pump (beyond trivial upgrades to materials, like billet gears in stock housing) without dealing with the fact that it will empty the sump and put it in the head. So....sump upgrade. Find a local race fabricator who knows what he's going and do the sump. Should be able to garner input into what it should look like from the interwebs. Plenty of youtube vids on the subject. 4. But you cannot just allow the thing to take the oil out of the sump and put it in the head. You have to deal with that. So, off you go to the oil control thread in these very forums and read the last 150 pages or so. You need extra breathers run from the sump to the crankcase breather system, properly selected restrictors in the head, decent oil-air separator and catchcan system, etc. 5. In general, the stuff that has been designed for GTRs and 26s in Australia and NZ in the last 10-15 years is far superior to all the old Jap branded stuff.

If it is, it will be readily visible in the ECU.

Nope. The only thing (in the HVAC area) you need is working demister.

Yeah, PA might be the horrible frozen shithole of Hoth in the winter, but it still gets up near 40 in the summer. You'd need to be well north of there before I'd say "not hot".

If you live somewhere hot, do not do this. Stock fan only. You can buy them. The GKTech fan does not seem to work well with RB engined cars. Was designed for SRs. Is not an "upgrade" anyway. Is for dorifto flatbrims.

Air bag modules have G sensors in them. If that helps?

The sensor cannot be mounted onto the plastic cam cover. Not solid enough. Needs to be mounted on a solidly connected bracket. All of that can be put in place without the cover. If it is like that, and it is under the cover, then the cover needs to come off to check. If it connected to the cover, then it needs to change. Tout de suite.

Yes. It was final decades ago.

Greg's info is good. I would have said that both boxes are piss weak, but the NA box is more piss weak than the turbo box.

Meh. When used as I prescribed, we're talking about a mosfet and a couple inches of wire. If there's any difference between absolute short and what you get from that then there's bigger problems anyway. But....valid point nonetheless.

Testing whether the ECU is actually setting pin 18 to ground is really simple. Just pull the FP relay out of its socket so there's no actual power going anywhere. Put a mutlimeter set to continuity onto pin 18. Turn on the ignition. If it beeps, you got ground. If it doesn't beep....you got problem, as you suspect.

If there are any mods to the engine that have not been advised to the insurer, then they are only going to want to repair to the extent of what they have been advised. If that is "stock", then they're only going to want to do the same. So any special cams, pistons, rods, oil pumps etc, that might have been damaged as a result of impact or running on a bit while upside down.... could be a problem and you might need to stump up some of the money.

Is this not why the later Nissan ECUs (is Neo onwards) stuck with AFM for primary load index and added Alpha-N on for throttle transient handling? I'm not sure that the Alpha-N implementation in the Nissan ECUs is equivalent to outright Alpha-N would be as the main load strategy, because they just seem to use it as a trigger to throw the main fuel map to the max load column, but I guess that any sort of blended strategy would always mean that one or the other of the strategies being used is bent or broken compared to when you use it alone.

Yes it is possible. There is a welch plug on the back of the block (behind the flywheel). That's the other possibility. If the hoses were original, then you could easily figure that one is about to pop. Because you have definitely been in there and changed them, it is eminently possibly that the leak is from one of the heater hose connections at the rear under the inlet manifold The grease under your car could be because we're talking about a 35 year old car here..... PS fluid should not escape from a torn boot, but PS fluid might be escaping from the torn boot. We're talking about a 35 yo car here.

1. When you stop exposing rust, and not before. 2. Any texture left on existing coatings with abrasives will provide a key for the primer (proper primer goes on bare metal first).

A/F Correct and A/F Learn will be your short term and long term fuel trims. These are the learnings of the ECU from closed loop O2 sensor feedback as to how wrong the "as mapped" fuelling is. Which is intended to account for problems with dirty injectors, engine condition change over time etc etc. As to which is which..If I had to guess I'd say Correction was short term and Learn was long term. Ignition is just ignition timing in degrees before top dead centre.

Cheap handhelds available on Aliexpress. I bought one for <<$200 which is excellent (the blue Hantek 2 channel one) which is over $200 now (I think). But there are <<$100 options for even lighter duty examples. If you don't need more than 10MHz it's really very cheap to own one these days.

I'm trying to slide about 5% of the possibility into each phone call while I'm away!

Swaps for 2 cartons of vapes?

This. If it's anything, it's this. You need a thread gauge and/or a decent machinist who is accustomed to measuring threads to have a close look to see what might have happened. Overtightening will lead to thread stretch. Usually behind the nut though.