GTSBoy

Yuh, I'd start with swaptronics on the TCU also. It's probably a crappy capacitor or solder joint or something equally pissweak. The good news is, if you have to throw it all away, it's relatively easy to run it all from a Haltech now.

Yuh, PS belts are a bit like the inside of the engine. If you touch it, it will f**k up again immediately. I shredded a brand new PS belt. Threw another one on, taking just as much care as the first time (ie, enough) and at some later time had a look in the bay for another reason and found the belt had come off over the front of the pulley and was running with one rib off. WTF!? So the usual full dismantle of the intake piping etc ensued, to provide access to the PS pump area to back it off and prise it back on. Bastard things.

If real (ie an accurate measurement, not from a faulty gauge) then 50 psi is too high. 43psi key on, not running, is correct.

Possible wiring fault.

You asking so you know which side to put them back in? If so, it's pretty easy to work out. The long one won't go in the short hole and the short one won't stay in the long hole. /Pornhub

You don't need a guide. Just start taking the door apart. You'll soon work it out. Not to mention that the factory service manual will have everything you need.

Hmm. Good luck. I realise you're probably trying to save money, but this looks to be an opportunity to put some Ferreas or similar in it.

No, don't know the part number. Just go to a respected diff/trasnsmission shop and obtain. As to the lengths of the stub axles. No, the stubs on VLSDs are different lengths to each other and to every other format of R200 diff.

I don't know. As I said, it realistically doesn't matter anyway. And I also said that the hard pipes you have will somewhat dictate where they go and what they connect to.

Yellow is the oil return. Oil supply will be on the opposite side (the top, which is underneath the turbo in the photo. The other two are water in and out, and it probably doesn't really matter which is which on the turbo itself (seeing as they are arranged horizontally) but obviously one will line up with the block fitting via its hard line and the other will go to the supply, likely via some extra (longer, possibly missing) lines, as stated by @Duncan above.

No. So changing the height of the front subframe is a nonsense. And anyway, the only way that it is ever changed in practice is to space the front subframe down, to allow more room under the bonnet for taller engines (ie, RB30 blocks in R32s). This is the opposite of what's being talked about here.

That's probably because the same fuel is still sitting there in the sensor, getting sensed.

All true. I just follow the policy of fewer high pressure hose connections is better high pressure hose connections. Also, there will always be fuel in the return, and it will get refreshed often enough. You'd have to be on full noise, maxing out the pump capacity such that there is no return flow, continuously, while a substantial change in fuel ethanol content arrived at the engine, for your concerns to be realised as engine damage. Any little burp of the fuel reg to release some fuel will always put some fresh stuff past the sensor.

Ha! That's where the Neo thermostat is set. I don't worry until 110°C.

Oh. My. God. You just thanked a GPT3 chatbot.

Post editing has been gone on these forums for many years. You have about 2hrs after a post is made in which to fix any typos etc. After that, no editing. For good reasons. If you need something changed there is a "report post" button available in the ellipsis (...) menu on the top right of each post. You can ask a moderator/admin to make changes. You might need to proffer more supporting information, if your posted image links are so badly messed up that the forum software can't even work it out. The information required to work out exactly what was posted might not be extractable from the link text mess. As to the better way to do this - I just paste all images directly into the thread. That way we don't end up with threads with dead links to images 5 + years into the future. Of course, if you want to retain control (ie the ability to remove images of your car) then this doesn't work. But then, any time you upload images to the internet you have to assume that they are out there somewhere, available to anyone who know how to look, forever and ever and ever.

The very last thing we need is GPT3 on these forums. The real users can be bad enough.

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P. P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

For a 2L six making just over 130HP, all you will need is a 2.25"-2.5" steel system with a medium sized resonator in the middle and a large muffler in the rear. Going any larger will make it into a drony mess. But.....getting a really nice tone out of it will likely require experimentation with different size (and possibly make) resonators and the same again with the muffler. I would take a first guess at a long hot dog or centre-offset muffler in the middle and maybe a large X-Force can at the rear.

You ask that question, but you know exactly who would use genuine.

Yes. It's a combination of rubber bush deflection and bump steer. Bump steer is not outrageous on stock length arms, but it does exist. The rubber bushes deflect a lot. Poly bushes trim that deflection down a bit. Still do it. Hard to say how much delta though. Spherical bearings almost completely eliminate it. What this means is that listening to people's recommendations for toe-in settings on the rear (or on the front for that matter) really needs to be done while understanding everything that goes into that particular recommendation. If you try to run zero toe on a stock bushed car you are going to end up with quite a lot of toe out on squat (and another factor in the bush deflection is not just squat, but the reaction to the force pushing the car forwards - the wheel naturally wants to move forwards wrt the chassis in order to impart accel force of the chassis). If the recommendation came from someone with a lot less deflection available in their rear end, then their recommendation is not valid for your setup. The opposite is obviously also true. Bump steer is the biggest thing that people do not think about. The situation will be different in many ways for each car. Spring and ARB stiffnesses, damping, any geometry changes (ie adjustable camber arms without adjustable traction arms), static ride height, and so on, all impact the bump steer curve that will be experienced under accel/decel/cornering

Yuh, I stand confused. There are no seat airbags in an R34. As Greg says - you have caused a different problem.

I seldom get more than 10k out of a set and have sometimes dipped into the 5s.

The CAS signals let the ECU know what the engine angle is and the ECU fires the coils at the appropriate angle.

Gears more than cams perhaps. Bigger cams may make more power, but usually at the expense of the low end, and that is where the hole is on an RB20.