GTSBoy

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

Just contact them yourself and ask if they can add the units to the firmware. Otherwise, just go without units or choose something nonsensical (like psi or whatever). It's not as if the units actually matter.

If one is power, and one is earth, they would be readily findable with MM. Then the other 2 are the signal and its likely signal earth. Notwithstanding that - this is the snip from the R32 wiring diagram. The wire numbers are reasonably well identified and the call outs to 30 and 35 go to terminals 44 and 45 on the E-TS control unit. Seems simple enough. Should be quite similar on the 33.

As is all the Platinum Racing stuff, Plasmaman, etc etc. There wouldn't be too much product being made in the US (or by US outfits) that is an actual new idea. Almost everything has already been done in Japan, Australia and NZ.

The wiring diagram will show the correct wires.

Let us assume that "roll over" means "actually fire and idle", and not "just rotate on the starter". In which case, if you think you bumped something, then yes, examine the relays next to the ECU, because one of them is for the ignition (coils) and will happily let you crank but not fire if it is not working.

Keeping in mind that a full race slick really requires completely different spring rates to extract the best from them.

It means the loaded running clearances are smaller (the thinner oil has less film strength to keep the surfaces separated) and so the crank pin/bearing does not have to move as far and therefore does not build up as much speed before it hits. This is presuming that the bearing is still/already knocking when it is cold. Thus, it would travel further and gain more speed with cold oil and make a louder noise when the surfaces smack together.

OK, so, the question again. "What leads you to want to correct roll centre on your car?" Have you drawn a diagram that shows that it (the roll centre) is currently too low? You do know that this is not a crappy Mac strut car and that you generally have to lower the car excessively to cause this problem, right?

Ta. I see. Your "start from scratch" to create the centre was one whole step further back than I imagined.

There are plenty of places doing commercial (industrial) 3D metal printing in Oz, but I would hesitate to think that any of them would be viable for one offs or even small runs. That is unless you know (or can come to know) someone who works at one of them who would be willing to do it as a favour in spare time. If you can get a very decent 3D model up and working you would be able to get a one off done out of China, in just about any printable material you can imagine. Want it to be stainless or inconel? Yup, can be done. Something more Al based? Probably no trouble.

Hi Tao, Question on the comp housing machining vid. Is it fair to assume that you first chucked up the housing using something bolted to the holes on the back, so you could machine the outside of the inlet snout true to centreline, before turning it around and chucking it up on the snout? cheers

Something FWD, possibly imported 2nd hand from Japan. I haven't been there for a long while, but they typically had Peroduas and other crap out of Malaysia, etc. So it used to be Daihatsu and Mitsubishi based stuff. There will probably be a flood of Korean/Thai/Chinese stuff now. None of it will be fast.

It's too much for an R33, but then I'm not into cruise ships. Your 30-32k is over AU$50k. There would be R33s changing hands over here for that much. And as Ben said, it's not a normal R33 - it is quite worked over. And whilst we say that mods add no value, the reality is that they do - just not as much as the seller would like. Buy it. Don't daily it. You will be fine. Expect to lose money on it if you do not sell it before the prices crash again. We have maybe 10 years until fossil fuel cars become difficult propositions. Collector only, Sunday only, that sort of thing. With the market eventually stripped of people who want to drive them around a lot, the prices cannot stay high forever.

It's not something that is necessary on RWD Skylines that haven't been lowered too far. If you keep the wheel centre to arch dimension around 345-350 mm or so, it's all good. What leads you to want to correct roll centre on your car?

And just to follow up on this - the RB20DE was a non-turbo engine. There were no intercoolers for them. As I said above wrt the RB20E, there were probably no aftermarket kits specifically for the DE either. But it hardly matters, because the intercooler doesn't care what engine it is connected to (so long as the cooler is not too small). The intercooler hangs out the front of the car at the other end of a few neters of pipework.

There will be no such thing. No-one will have made a kit for an RB20E at any time. Why would they, when there were the RB20DE and DET to base things off of? Money spent putting a turbo and injectors and management upgrades etc etc etc, on a base model forkilft counterweight like a single cam 2L six would be better spent snorting cocaine off a dead hooker's arse. The RB20E is a slow, torqueless, powerless slug of a thing. Even if there had been some deluded JDM crowd in the mid 90s who decided to put out a kit, they would have sold about 3 of them and none of the parts would still exist. So, if you want to turbo the engine you have, you are not looking at anything "easy" or "cheap" or "off the shelf" or "off another RB20". You are looking at a complete custom install. You are going to need to modify the existing exhaust manifold, or fabricate another. You are going to need injectors. You are going to need a fuel pump, You are going to need a clutch (because trust me, the stocker will not hold 50% more torque). You're going to need to completely fabricate the intake piping, from filter to turbo, turbo to cooler, cooler to TB. And because you have to fabricate all these things, it really doesn't matter what turbo you buy (ie, it could be from an RB20DET, or it could be from a 25DET, or it could be a Toyota turbo (think CT20) or it could be a Mitsubishi turbo (think TD04), or it could be a brand newer Garrett GT25. From the perspective of making it fit, it will be all the same. Ditto the intercooler. You just need a core that's about the right size to fit and with tank inlet/outlet that will work with the appropriate pipe route. Mounting it and plumbing it is then all up to you to work out. At least fuelling, management, clutch, etc are all going to be same-same with other Cefiros and Skylines. Just buy 2nd hand or aftermarket rated to do the job. By the time you have done all this, you will have spent approx 3x what it would cost to simply drop in an RB25DE, and would only barely be faster. And the RB25DE would be considered by everyone here to be too slow to both with anyway.

You really shouldn't. No RB20DE came equipped with an intercooler.

You could install an RB20DE intercooler, if there was such a thing.

I'd say he copy pasted the whole advert without trimming off the confusing shit.

Arguably these cars are all so fast that an H pattern manual makes no sense anyway. Neither from a "driving engagement" or "driving enjoyment" sense, or any sort of additional "control" over what the driveline is doing. To obtain best enjoyment at the sort of speeds that these cars are intended to be driven at, then 2 hands on the wheel and nera-instant automated-manual-box shifts are the only way to go. Planning your transmission choice based on 2s pull freeway onramps and tootling around the 'burns is a nonsense. The R35 has always been just a bigger nastier Evo. Pure triumph of technology over physics and driver ability. This is the reason why it has never been all that popular. The various Porches, on the other hand, regardless of whatever level of chassis assistance might be built in, have always been aimed at pleasing the driver and rewarding effort. That's why they can sell far more than they make. I do of course make plenty of allowance for badge snobbery. I like (some) Nissans, but would take a rattly old track-whore GT3 over an R35 any day.

If you're going to run 98, then 1000cc injectors are good for about 1000 engine HP. If E85, then maybe 750ish. That is a lot of power - you're unlikely to need much more. The 1000s will tune better and run better than the 1200s. I cannot see the point in the 1200s unless you're proposing to need that much power.

Not so safe in a crash either.

If it does it a bit worse on overrun, then it is likely to be valve stem seals. As turbo seals - there are two possible leak paths. 1) Out to the compressor, which goes to the engine and should get burnt, mostly cleanly, and 2) Out to the exhaust housing, which then burns in the exhaust and will make more smoke. Further, compression rings make compression. Oil control rings stop oil moving up in the chamber. It is possible to have damaged oil control rings and still have decent compression rings.

Walbro is TI.