Niroth

I've sourced some really low cost fibreglass and resin, gelcoat and all other associated bits. I'm wondering if I can put the money into a mould and new bonnet, rather than into fixing mine. If it was a straight bonnet, there would be no question about it. However as I want a vented bonnet, my only query about making a new mould, is how do i actually make the shape of the vent and put it on the surface of my bonnet so that I can actually create the mould? Obviously the surface of whatever i use needs to be perfect, or at least something that I can make perfect once complete, before the mould is made. Any ideas on this?? Jase

I've been told by a fibreglass manufacturer that gelcoat is NOT what I need to use on the top, because its out of the mould. They've told me that Flow Coat is what I need to use, and its basically the same price, but slightly different in the way it dries. He says it will fill out the dips, and give me a good base for painting. Re-enforcement has been arranged, I know how I'm going to do that, and I've sourced 450gsm csm for under 10 bucks a square meter. Not decided on what I'll do with the top. However, re fibreglassing the bottom may solve some of the hassles I have with the top of it. I'll be able to assess it more when thats done. Thanks, Jase

Ok, THis brushable (and sandable) gelcoat sounds like exactly what I'm after. A 5mm coating over the top is just about right, and it seems gelcoat is 100% UV stable and good for painting on. As for the bottom, I dont know what weight CSM I have, but should I use cms or weave? the bottom of it looks like shit, you can see the CSM and in places actually pull strands off. For the tighter crevases where there is so little resin I can see through it, whats best there, just cut up a few really thin strips of csm to put in the bottom of the V kinda shape, or just fill it with some resin? Someone commented about using de-greaser on the bonnet to remove all the grease and wax, what sort of effect will that have on the surface of the bonet? With regards to the viscosity of the brushable gelcat, will it hold to an angled surface, or is it too thin and will just kinda run down to the lowest level. Last question for this post, where exactly would I find brushable, sandable gelcoat? Oh, and no one told me if there were any problems with the resin so close to heat, does resin have a expand and contract property at all? will being under such high heat cause me any problems? do I have to make any special considerations when selecting a paint (for the underside) and if so, are all paints equal. I dont want to put something on there that will cause me headaches in the future. Thanks heaps for all your help guys, keep it coming. Jase

This guy is actually a uni student and the money is gone. Other peoples standards are lower than mine. I have asked them about the finish and other little things I noticed about mine and they have the same low quality units. Onle woman is taking him to small claims court about it. I like the bonnet shape and everything, but sending it back the first 2 times has proven to be basically useless. This guy obviously does not have the knowhow on making fibreglass products, at least not to a prefessional standard. Well it seems to be the going suggestion that nothing gets put on the top. I don't need to "fill" the top as such, but it cant be polished, I've tried. The finish is basically shit. So this gel coat, can someone explain exactly what it is? Is it a paint, or resin or what? Does it have any viscosity to be filling flat spots? this flat spot that I'm talking about seems to be just where its sagged. its maybe a 5mm drop in the centre and about a foot in diameter. I figured I would just need to to use a little more resin in that area to just level it up, can the gelcoat do this? What prep is needed for the gelcoat, a light sand and wipe down with acetone would be sufficient I'd think, but is there any other prep or coating that has to go down first? I'll re-enforce everything from underneath as suggested. Being right above the monitor, do I have to be carefull about heat and using too much resin? There are some specific areas that might be a little hard to get the glass into, but I dont want to do it, only to find it doesn't bond properly. The other thing about glassing underneath.. the underneath of it is basically CMS glass, its all rough as if there hasn't been enough resin put on it. Am I going to have to do anything to prepare that to have new glass and resin put on it? Jase

Is there anything I can put on the top to give it a proper surface for painting? I've been told bog s a pretty dodgy way of going about it, but I'm open to options. Jase

Yeah, I had a suspicion that the resin coat on the top might crack.. I'm not 100% sure what to do. There are areas on the bonnet that definatley need more fibreglass and resin, I mean parts that are so thin you can actually see thru them. There aren't really too many deep scratches in the top of it. I don't know if this bonnet has been made in 2 parts. I think he's made a mould and just laid all the fibreglass and resin in there and left it to cure. I dont think the bonnet is actually thick enough, even a light touch on the top and the bonnet can be easily pressed in in certain areas. I wonder if I would get a better result cutting off what little reo there is and completley reglassing the bottom. You said that you wouldn't lay weave down on the top, but I am not relaly sure why?? I figured laying a few layers of woven and a good amount of resin would not only make it a little thicker, but give it a more even surface. The bonnet is going to be sprayed anyway, so in the case of laying weave and resin, and another 2 coats of resin, wouldnt that mean that there isn't too uch resin to cause it to crack, but enough to give it a harder surface to paint? I've tried to find the surfboard resin stuff round here but I just cant get it, and I cant see anywhere on the net to buy it in australia. The CSM sheet that comes with the bunnings kit isn't what I'm planning on using. I've found some proper weave that I'm gunna use. From everything I've read, putting one or more layers of weave on top is going to be the best idea in regards to strengthening, because it will be high strength up and down, as well as side to side, which (in my head) would mean less chance of twist. Jase

Still haven't got any bank account details. Gunna have to wait until thursday now, stuff has come up, but i am still interested in the DFA and the hand controller. Jase

Have read the thread and got some questions... I've done my own testing with fuels and have found: Ultimate makes the car run smooth and clean, but i get 300 clicks out of a tank. (Got an exa with a arebuilt CA18DE, 4-2-1 headers and 2.25" all the way) Vortex, I dont know if this is the good stuff, its just marked as "Vortex" not gold or 98 or anything, car runs ok, nothing amazing though, seems to have a little slower reaction times, acceleration doesn't seem as good, but I get an extra 30-50 kms from a tank?? Optimax is just pure crap here, I put it in my CBR250RR and the damned thing literally wouldn't start. Our mobiles dont have synergy, just regular unleaded. Won't touch any of the safeway or wollys fuel, makes me shiver just driving past them. Why is it though, that lower quality fuels, ie. standard premium or octance boosted fuels, as opposed to refined fuels, give better economy. What sort of effect long term would you get using lets say a standard primus fuel, (95 RON) or maybe the Vortex, which is from you guys say, boosted to 96 RON and not actually refined to 96, compared to always using the 98RON Ultimate? Obviously a higher octane rating gives you a more complete combustion stroke, but what other affect does using ashitty fuel have on your car/engine? I've looked around in other place on the web, lots of epople are saying the same thing about the addatives to the optimax and vortex, and although it gets me a few more kms, I think I'll switch back to BP. It's more convinient too. Jase

So the story goes: I'm a member of nissanexa.com. One of the members so graciously organised a group buy of vented fibreglass bonnets from Topstage in Melbourne. A one man show body kit manufaturer. Long story short it took 3 goes to get the bonnet here as closed to finished as it will ever be. Just a note on Topstage: If anyone has ever heard of these guys, or is considering buying something from him, DONT!. Ok, now down to the crux of my problem. The bonnet isn't terribly well made. It was supposed to have a gelcoat on it as a finish but I dont think it has. The finish is extremley average, scratched, not smooth etc, and I want to fix it. I'm considering my options and have come to the conclusion that re fibreglassing the top of the bonnet is the best way to go. I've found that bunnings here have "diggers" brand resin, hardener and figreglass weave sheeting. Anyone used this brand of fibreglass stuff? Good or bad? I will have to prep the surface of course, thats no worries. I will be painting the bonnet anyway, so I'm wondering if I should just paint a good 4 or 5 layer of resin onto the bonnet surface, to add a smooth surface and to add a little extra strength, or if I should actually add layers of fibre to the top as well as the resin. The other think I want to look at doing, is properly re-enforcing the underneath of the bonnet. I'm contemplating using small aluminium angle iron underneath, in basically a W shape, and attaching plates to the "start and end" of the W which will go between the bolts and the bonnt itself, to secure the W into place. Ideas? will it work ot not? Basically when the bonnet is up and sitting on the arm that holds it up, the other side of the bonnet sags down because there is no rigidity to the whole thing. Any suggestions would be good, especially on the fibreglassing issue. Jase

So is there any real benefit from using the DFA on an NA engine? I'm not running especially high compression or anything, its just had a standard rebuild. It's been run on a dyno (long story on a an apauling dyno) and I noticed the tell tale brown smoke under load showing it was running rich. If there is no power gain to be had, and no other obvious benefits such as better fuel economy or the possibility of keeping the engine running better for longer, than I have to consider if its really worth it. I don't plan on going turbo at this point.... Jase

Ok, so the fuel adjuster and the hand controller is available. Yes Pinoi, I blind Long day. And yep, PM me with bank details and I'll shoot thru some dosh, gimme the address for the gangbang too, I'm DEFINATLEY in for THAT one ;) Jase

No point just getting the hand controller if the fuel adjuster is unavailable, I'll wait till nbext round. Thanks anyway, and keep up the good work. Jase

SK, I'm after: Digital Fuel Adjuster = $48 + GST Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters = $36 + GST PM me with your account details and I'll trnasfer the money asap. I'll also need it freighted to the VIC/NSW border. Shouldn't be too much, let me know weight and dimensions and I'll cover you for that as well. Jase

Hi Guys, I know its not a skyline question, but here goes. I have a nissan exa, and I am looking for a replacement/upgrade engine. I know the CA18DET bolts straight in. I am trying to find a CA18DET fom a U11. Problem is, I dont know any reputable people/shops to buy from. Can anyone give me any advice? Cars, front cuts, engines or parts that you've bought, from a good shop/supplier. I've been quoted $2000 for a ca18det from a 180sx, with a complete top end from another ca18det. Can someone gimme a hand . If i can find a solid FWD CA18DET from someone good, that'd be great. Warmest Regards, Jase