HappyPuppy

Well it is 2nd hand, and it is the best 2nd hand wheel I've seen for a while especially for the price I'm selling it at. You could probably get a leather guy to put new leather on the wheel for you, and the total cost of the venture would still be cheaper than scouring the world for a perfect R33 steering wheel....

Here's the pic... As you can see there's some minor scuff marks between 10 o'clock & 2 o'clock on the leather but apart from that it's in good condition. Have emailed RedLineGTR...will let you know if he wants it or not.

Got an R33 steering wheel (airbag type). It's in good condition, will post pic soon. $150 firm (I payed $200 for it, before I found out that my car wasn't fitted with airbag stuff after all!) Prefer Melbourne pickup, or buyer pays for COD. Also will donate 10% to SAU. My membership pack just arrived! PM me if your interested. Or email: [email protected] Cheers, Blair

Cool. Do you do any other styles like 400R, Bomex, veilside, etc. ?

Thanks. I'm in West Melb so Nth Melb is real close - what's the name of your bro's shop inark? And would they be willing to just sell a couple litres of colour matched paint, primer and probably clear coat too...as I want to do it myself...well the old man's 1st job was panel beater and sprayer so I guess he'll be doing most of it! :-D For anyone else searching I found the following which might be usefull: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...colour+matching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=color+matching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...colour+matching

Anyone know of a decent Auto paint place that will take the Nissan colour code and do a little colour matching to account for paint fade etc. ? Need to re-paint the front spoiler and touchup a bunch of paint chips & scratches....

Sorry let me be a bit more clear.... Kill switch off = everything works as normal Kill switch on = only the internal unlock/lock switches on the door don't work, everything else is as normal So this just requires finding one of the wires off each internal unlock/lock switch and putting a double pole single throw switch in series, to act as the kill switch.

Has anyone installed a 3rd brake light in their rear window? If so what type, how much, and where did you get it? I'm going to put on a rear spoiler that has no brake in it and to comply with vic laws I need to have a 3rd rear mounted brake light either in the spoiler or in the rear window... I don't feel like ripping the light out of the stock spoiler and cutting a hole in the new spoiler!

I managed to get a series 1 m-spec fbar. So I'm not really interested at the moment. But do you have any pics? Do you make rear spoilers too?

Well if there's a wire that supplies power when the ignition is on you could wire up a relay to act as an switch to join the brown wire when the ignition is on and disconnect when the ignition is off. But for me this isn't what I want to do...I want a switch hidden from sight that when activated will allow the unlock switches to operate on both the driver's and passenger's door, regardless if the ignition is on or not.

We'll here's my timing belt sticker and it looks like it was changed in Japan @ 95017km on the 8th month of the year H12 (2000) The belts on the fan and the alternator look pretty new. But I think I have to squeeze under the car to inspect the timing belt don't I?

Attached is a pic with all the parkers on...probably should've taken the pic at night :-) If you want to see different pics of the lights on/off etc. go here http://www.geocities.com/necroboy2/

Ok, after sticking my head under the car today I managed to disconect the -'ve wire that was running to the extra parking lights in all 4 of my headlights. Couldn't actually pull the bulbs out as the assembly for them (which is located on the bottom of the headlights) is a kinda rubber plug sealed with something that feels like silicon...so it may actually be a custom job. Tomorrow morning I'll reconnect one side and post pics :-)

Cool thanks! Yep that was the plan. I was thinking of installing a kill switch for the unlock switches on both doors....no sense in them operating when no one is in the car. Is it also a brown wire on the driver's door? As for the parking lights, see the other thread. Where I'll try to post some pics tomorrow morning... :-)

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the locking switches on the drive & passenger door? Also this might be a dumb question but how do you change the parker bulbs that are in the actual headlights? (not the ones on the corners). I tried twisting the grey plug under the main circular cap on the back of the headlight but it wouldn't move and I really don't want to get the pliers onto it unless I know that I'm twisting the right thing the right way! Or is it also in the main assembly for the headlight where the main bulb lives?

Ok, this might be a dumb question but how do you change the parker bulbs in that are in the actual headlights? (not the ones on the corners). I tried twisting the grey plug under the main circular cap on the back of the headlight but it wouldn't move and I really don't want to get the pliers onto it unless I know that I'm twisting the right thing the right way! Oh, and yes I know you can't pass a roadworthy with these parker bulbs in.

whoops...ah thanks!

Is there a Vicroads web page that states precisely what aftermarket stuff is illegal & what is legal, how loud, how low, etc. ?? Wouldn't mind carrying some of that official info with me in the car just in case....well if I *know* my car is legal that is ;-)

Probably a red herring, but my old '85 Corona use to do the same thing. Idle badly once the engine was warm, and cut out when you lift off the accelerator when changing down from 2nd to 1st. It was an intermittent fault too...you'd be driving around car with the car perfectly happy and then you stop at the lights and the damn thing just wouldn't hold it's revs. Took it to the mechanic once, but they had no idea. I always thought it might've been the fault of the crap battery and the alternator slowly dying....but then again I'm not a mechanic...

I'm going through compliance of my '94 GTS-25T. I've got to raise the car height and it turns out the no-name "adjustable suspension" fitted ain't that adjustable. I've got some stock springs which are in good nick to replace the aftermarket stuff, but no shocks. Anyone have an idea of the size of the stock shocks so I can pickup a new set to match the stock springs?

Thanks for the offer, but unfortunately the fbar has to be undamaged/unchanged when going through compliance :-( But if you've got a pic of your car post it up, as I've never seen a Type M fbar with an FMIC fitted before (most people just buy different fbar) :-)

bump!

My car is getting complied, so I need an R33 Series1 fbar. Prefer Type M(but not mandatory) and red(but any colour will do), and to be in Sydney as that's where my car is! PM me as I'm online everyday. Cheers, Blair

Not interested in buying it (I'm too poor at the moment!) but just out of curiosity, does it pass the EPA noise levels on your car?

What kind of wheel arch mod is required on a gtst? Is it because the width is 255, and you can only really fit 235 on the front wheels?