Marcus89
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Posts posted by Marcus89
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That's fairly standard.. what pressure actuator do you have on your turbo and what was minimum boost when you went for the tune.
Also, what tuner was it?
It is a 14psi actuator with the preload it has on it the turbo spikes to about 20 then tapers down to 17psi. Am using an MBC also.
Tuner was Hi-power racing in Slacks creek they are more Honda guys but the tuner they have there Ben does a lot of nistuning stuff
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Hmm well its not a BAD result, not at all.. 250kw all in between 3500-4000 is pretty good.
It definitely tells me that the turbo is doing its thing and its doing it well.. If there is a 'problem' it is somewhere else on the setup. A 2.5 is probably good for 270 max, and there is no guarantee that a given motor combo can draw the max from a given turbo.
Have you asked your tuner what could be causing it? I find its easier if you tell them it has a brand name turbo
they tend to listen more and try harder when they think it has an expensive brand name on it, like Garrett or GReddy.This is very true didn't seem to matter how much I told them that the turbo is very good and has had a lot of testing done to be a proven performer they just kept saying nope the turbo is crap get a good one....
The tuner said that if they ran more boost it would ping/get too hot. I have done leak testing of my system and can't find any major leaks. Does slowly lose pressure over a a couple minutes though.
Some results sent through DMD tuning this evening:
From a high flowed Rb25det Neo turbocharger, supporting mods, pump 98 fuel
Seeing results like this make me wish I had stuck to highflowing my neo turbo would have been a little less hassle and would of gotten similar results although is that boost line accurate? Is that car really only running 16psi dropping down to 13 for that power?
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What was your result and why are you underwhelmed?
250rwkw. Hits hard about 3500/4000 which is good but after that the power just flattens out has no extra go at all pretty much gets the 250kw at 4500 and doesn't climb from there
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Haha, i missed the end.
ATR43G2.5
Keen to see how it goes I have g2.5 and currently underwhelmed with my result and unsure if it's turbo or something else that is lacking.
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You will need a compressor with a fairly large air reciever if you have any leaks worth repairing. 20psi should be fine.
This was my point. Had some major leaks that were too large for the little 12v pump to be able to show up because it couldnt get any pressure in there. Hooked up to compressor and they became apparent very quickly
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Gave it a try didn't get any pressure...?! Using a 12v tyre compressor, How long would these take to build the pressure needed? Should I just let it go longer
I attached the BoostLeakTester to the pipe after the AFM, which goes to the turbo inlet. Is this ok? Do I have to go directly on the turbo inlet?
I have tried with a 12v pump and it's pointless unless your system is already really well sealed. You really need a compressor or if you dont mind the hassle drive to a servo use their air pump find leaks then take back home and fix
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I paid 135$ for a Worley eBay radiator, so did ny mate. So far so good, even the welds are decent.
I just hit up their website and the products do look pretty good. They don't seem to be dealing on ebay anymore though.
They have 52mm and 42mm but looks like if you want the 52mm to fit a r33/34 GTst/GTT also need to change shroud as they have a combo deal for those. If you don't have to change the shroud the 52mm can be had for $140 crazy cheap
http://www.worleyautoparts.com.au/CustomerProduct/Index/4?Page=1¤tFilter=skyline
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Must be ok up to a point - I haven't got an aftermarket radiator I just got a new stocker c/w plastic top and thrash it round the track only 310awkw but it doesn't get hot at all.
I'm only running 250rwkw and with the factory radiator it takes a fair few drift runs before it starts to heat up so I think it should be alright.
I think plastic will (in general) start to fail before alloy. My plastic eventually cracked around the neck.
This is true but are we talking about 1/2 years and failure or 5-10? The full aluminium ones are obviously better but for less than half the price if it will last for a decent period of time I'm happy to take that route
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This thread has been really handy for information.
Does anyone know the cons of using a radiator with plastic end tanks? The Koyo items with aluminium core but plastic tanks are less than half the price of the full aluminium items but I can't seem to find much info on if plastic is really any good. -
Supposedly the Z32 can manage the VTC of the Neo, Its a 8 Bit ecu so you can chip it and run a rom tune.... or so goes the idea. Also people usually get that one to run Nistune.
Ill just test using the Z32 with the local tuner, if things get complicated ill just delay the project and get Nistune for the Z32 ecu and RB25, but i have to inquiry now if i should use the Type 4 board on the stagea ECU, or the Type 2 board on the Z32 ecu. But ill go to the nistune boards for that one.
This is true but most people do that for normal rb25's as there isn't a nistune chip to suit the rb's from r33's. There's a nistune chip that installs directly into the nistune computers though
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Why run a neo on z32 ECU?
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You won't make boost cruising at 100km/hr unless your putting your foot flat for some reason
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My Diff drain bolt was a bastard to remove but was lucky to have no issues with filler or drain on gearbox. Put some Nulon stuff in there and feels good
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One for Markos.
The article not the video.
How sad is it that our 'professional' sportsmen seem to have no idea about simple fitness/strength regimes
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Far out that is a lot of reps for strength training if that is what your going for? 2x20 that is def more endurance focused if you ask me but I may be missing something here
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I use to have no knee problems with my back squats.
Had shoulder surgery could not back squat anymore simply from getting arm/shoulder in back position for back squats.
Started to front squat only light weights as well as leg pressing.
Finally have the mobility to back squat at less than half max weight and can get knee pain unless very careful and I am very sure it's due to leg presses or less likely due to getting use to front squat form -
What are your final goals?
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Are these still happening? Tried to PM 666Dan but I think his inbox is full
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I'm at a upper mt gravatt and have a pink label rb25 neo afm you could try if you want should work much the same I believe
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Sounds like you have narrowed it all down. If you want an easy option get a replacement 2nd handy or better deal is to highflow it so that you have a new turbo with headroom
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i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness
others may have actual answers to this.
That's actually a pretty good point didn't even think of that. I may be better keeping my thinner oil since I don't have issues with burning of the oil or blow by
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A 40 weight oil is actually at it's best viscosity at around 100 degrees. The thicker oils aren't as good until higher temperatures although I am surprised your temps are climbing quickly with an oil cooler installed
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Is it possible to get the twins highflowed would save heaps of hassle if you could just do that
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Far out that's cheap
they tend to listen more and try harder when they think it has an expensive brand name on it, like Garrett or GReddy.
Drift/track Product Question
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Posted
Wonder if they have anything like this for r34. I have extra lock spacers but would love a fair bit more lock than I currently have