Marcus89

Thanks prob get some mates over so I don't have to do it all alone and to talk shit This will be the go if I'm changing that may as well fix the lot http://www.hypergearturbos.com/atr43.html The link says G3 but that is the graph from the G2.5 on the page. Either way I will suss out any leaks and give it another run soon.

Didn't clean it well or change gasket so yea sounds like my most likely place

Shouldn't be back pressure I have a full 3 inch exhaust with hi-flow cat would hope that's not already a restriction. My fmic is a return flow ARC which isn't particularly big as FMIC's go but once again I'd hope it can keep up with under 300rwkw Ah that makes sense to me will definitely check this out hope I don't need to take my intake off again that was a pain for doing injectors

I got my car tuned today and the tuner had to turn off the O2 sensor cause it had readings all over the place. At idle it had 0 but with a slight tap on the throttle it just jumped to max voltage. Is this a sign of the O2 sensor being stuffed? I cut out the plug as it was melted and directly wired the O2 sensor is it possible that if I had the wires wrong it would cause these issues? i.e. white wire into black and black into white

It's a g2.5 type B also. It was originally a g2 I think but as blown so when I sent it to you you did the upgrades as well as rebuilding. I'm happy with the power just wasn't sure why it seemed to need less boost at higher revs cause otherwise it would just ping. Comparing my graph to the one you have on your site: http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43g3/60comp110512E85/power.jpg Mine is very similar to the 98 power curve (green curve, yellow is e85) up until my boost starts dropping off. Would have been nice to wind a bit more in. I was just thinking could my intake be the issue? I have a stock airbox with 3inch piping to the turbo. Was hoping to keep the car looking stock but if it's causing this issue i'd be happy to make a pod filter enclosure

So I have never had any problems with fuel economy in my car but went and got it tuned today and the tuner actually turned the O2 sensor off because it was going spastic. He showed me on the computer once the throttle is touched the O2 sensor went from nothing to max voltage straight away and just generally all over the place. I tried to directly wire my O2 sensor in the other day could this be a stuff up with my wiring?

image hosting 30 mb Got my car tuned today. It's running an atr43g2.5 and made 250rwkw with boost hitting 21psi and coming down to 16psi. The tuner was saying that if they tried to add in more boost they had to keep pulling timing so unfortunately this is how they had to tune it. Any ideas what may be going on Stao?

Why do people say this? a 5w oil (being the cold weighting) is still going to be thicker than it's 40 rating at 90/100 degrees running. Hell a 0w still has a higher viscocity. There is no way in a hell a cold oil will ever be thinner than it's high rating unless they can produce -10w or something along those lines

I was thinking this would/could be the case but didn't have any figures to back it up or any idea where to look first. It's not like his fuel pressure will rise much if any higher than what he is getting at idle either due to the motor using much more fuel when on boost. Not even close to the ID pressure limits

Ah disregard my post I just read a little more to get a better understanding (haven't mucked around with aftermarket fuel regs yet) I'd have to agree that increasing the fuel return is likely cause couldn't be much else at idle coming into play

There are the higher rated sard Type-R fuel regs but I couldn't see that being a problem at idle. The FPR doesn't actually feed any fuel back to the return it only really comes in play under boost as far as I understand. Really got me stumped trying to work out whats going on. When you prime the car does the pressure go to the correct 43 psi again now or does it jump the higher pressure?

That's not too hopeful. I think my current O2 sensor is ok and will be trying to do a direct wire in this arvo but if I have any problems was hoping to grab that ebay one for $40

Have any more Neo people run these? Looking to potentially buy one as my factory plug on both harness and O2 sensor have melted so would be much easier install with this kit

I am due to renew insurance soon. I am currently with just car and would like to move onto someone else if they have some better deals also particularly little things that are real handy like windscreen replacement once a year and what not

You will need a braided oil line as the factory hardline apparently has a restrictor in it so it won't flow enough oil for the Hypergear turbo. You can make your own braided line for pretty cheap if you want to isn't very hard

At least you gave it a shot haha

Good point my setup is as follows: BC BR Coilovers 8kg F 6kg R (whatever the standard spring rates are believe that is correct) Whiteline swaybars as before (24mm F 22mm R) I also have lock collars for rear subframe (whether that makes a difference) Adjustable arms all over and locked out my hicas

I'd go through hypergear for your hi-flow will be much cheaper

What power do you have currently then? if your pushing 270/280 there isn't much point going for 300 unless you aim bigger like 320

Not a whole heap but what's the point in the end? Particularly in terms of FFP they have been shown to be a mostly pointless exercise. Exhaust manifold go the low mount for less hassles but even better do as others have said and get a hi flow. In my car I have a FMIC, larger turbo, boost controller amongst other potentially defectable things but everytime a cop pops my bonnet they lose interest straight away cause it looks mostly standard

I have 24mm front and 22mm rear non-adjustable but that's cause I bought them for a steal at $150 for the pair. The car does have a bit more roll than I'd really like but is really very predictable when drifting on track at fairly high speeds (3rd gear 100+km)

Woah 375kw+ from a 3076? even on E85 I don't think I have seen any figures like that yet. Stao will definitely have a good match for you. It's funny back in the day I always wanted ball bearing but now days I see that there is too little benefit from going ball bearing when bush bearing is generally much more reliable over the long term

Every manual turbo r34 has a helical diff Unless of course it has been change

Is it possible to check the stored code just through the dash or still need to get a laptop to read it?

Will give a new one a go I have a good idea that it is 90% likely the issue is from the O2 sensor and nothing else. Unfortunate the error code doesn't remain long enough for me to check it without a laptop plugged in like GTSboy recommends