Marcus89

Have a full set of factory rb25 neo coilpacks were running in car with 200rwkw with no issues. Have since upgraded turbo and will be aiming for 300rwkw and wanted the piece of mind of new coilpacks before sending car to be tuned. Looking for $150 ono willing to post

Back up

G2 is 3 inch I can't say about g2.5 but g3 is definitely a 4 inch intake that's why it needs the spacer on the manifold

Injectors are the main part that can cost a lot if you don't research. Coilpacks are different but cheap enough anyway (was a pain when people were able to source factory coilpacks for good prices for every but neos). Actually now that I think of it that is all there is with the motor side. Other pain in the ass stuff is having a pull type clutch and different suspension struts to all other models (GTR do fit but not properly).

Only downside I will have to say for the NEO is parts will cost you more. Many things are specific to the neo motor and therefore harder/more expensive to find but they are a great motor

is it a swift sport? If so make sure your using 98 makes a big difference. It actually recommends using 98 and the increased economy is enough to offset the additional cost while making the car more fun. On the standard model no idea what fuel is required maybe 95 but likely just standard

Doesn't sound standard to me. I'd dare say r33 and r34 engine mounts are the same factory

Awesome. Considering the rb30e+t will be making much more torque than my rb25 should be very good

Have a factory GTT recirculating BOV. Is in good working condition only removed to replace with GTR. Looking for $30 and happy to post at buyers expense

Did you find they put up with getting kicked well also? I am planning for 270-300rwkw but car is mostly street driven with as many drift nights as I can get to. Would love to stick to organic if people have had them holding up well but if it's not gonna like me kicking it I will just go for the button clutch and cop the much worst drivability.

A not entirely sealing actuator would make the car laggier shouldn't make the boost flicker unless there is an issue with it opening also

I can't understand people attacking OP yes he has his opinion that GW's are not worth the saving of small amount of initial outlay but he doesn't appear to be fanatical about it or annoying. I found this an interesting read as I only know of 2 people with GW's 1 has spent more time getting warranty fixes done to it and the other while much more reliable says he will never buy another. Not to sure on his reasons why but then again these are budget tight ass cars with build quality to match very comparable to the old hyundai's. In future GW's will likely be much better quality but atm they are focusing on the budget market and will have a generally inferior product

Another option is to go old school like group b rally cars maybe?

Awesome thanks guys I know i def got oil and such on the turbo my hands were covered in crap haha. The turbo shouldn't get hot enough to damage it on idle even if it is getting restricted water going through to it do you think?? I mean the oil is still flowing through it and some turbos are oil cooled only. I looked for leaks and didn't seem to be any which I was happy about

Finally started car for first time after installing the ATR43 G2 in the car and I'm a little worried. First turned car on for short period (1/2mins just making sure all intake setup was alright and no vacuum leaks) and saw steam start coming off the turbo so turned car off straight away. I hadn't put coolant in the car yet so I hit myself in the head then refilled it all waited a little while and started car again. Was letting it idle to bleed the coolant and again lots of steam started coming off the turbo pretty quickly. Am I being paranoid or is it likely my coolant feed has gotten blocked off? I am still using the steel lines and obviously had to 'adjust' them so that they would fit up to the new turbo.

Sold

Back up really good for highflow or great upgrade for rb20s

bump up

Interestingly found these photos http://www.digi-hardware.com/photos/atr43/atr43g2/ Which are from a hypergear car I believe (photos same as the atr43 install thread that I have read a couple times) Using the stock airbox although the AFM is moved. I could do this and not run a pod although I do like the induction noise. Maybe temporarily I will keep the airbox and see how it sounds

Mines a ATR43G2 so I only need a 3 inch pipe anyway makes my life a little easier in regards to connecting up to AFM at least I believe it is 3inch gotta double check measurment. Going to see if I can fit my pod into a customised factory airbox if that seems too much work will likely just get ebay spec perspex box to make up. What could of caused the terrible idle mixtures? Doesn't sound right to me

Awesome thanks for the advice. The intercooler I will be able to sort fairly easily almost had it all setup with just the factory piping and a 45 degree pipe off the turbo just needs a little extra length so will likely get a short piece of aluminium for that. I didn't even think about cutting up the hardpipe no idea why will likely do that. Time to get myself some piping will likely ring around a few shops and see what they can supply at a reasonable price don't want to wait for shipping if I can help it

I am just finishing up an install of a hypergear ATR43 turbo into my car am going to get an aftermarket intake as the factory won't fit straight in as well as the issues of it sucking shut at higher boost. I was just curious as to how people have going about fitting the reciruclating pipe from the BOV to their new intake? Get it custom made so there is a place for the pipe to fit? Or get rid of the factory metal bracket/piping and run the BOV piping back through at another place? Hoping to get car back on the road ASAP so if anyone in Brisbane has had a pipe made up I'd love to know where at and how much it cost.

Have my stock r34 turbo up for sale. Worked very well but wanted more boost and power so upgraded removed from car today. Want $350 ono for it came off a car with 100,000k's on it. Located south Brisbane but happy to post Will get some photos up tomorrow

Does lumley SV insure skylines? I was looking at the site seems their only interested in classics or limited run cars?

My r34 has 24/22mm swaybars in it does very well for drifting no issues with understeer. Not to sure on timeattack but feels to handle nicely