Sinesweep

Good to hear mate

I ended up cleaning the AAC as well as rewetting all the AFM solder joints and the old girl came good. I'm not sure which (if either) fixed it, but my money is on the AFM dry joints. Have also since taken out the Boost Tee. AAC cleaning here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/?hl=%20aac%20%20clean.

I cant remember if I bothered. I put LEDs in mine when I swapped so I have spares I can try. I was more concerned with the speed reading half what i was doing, and the Airbag wire, neither of which I figured would be globe related.

Hi guys, I have been having grief with my speedo for some time now, it gets stuck at ~60kmh intermittently (about 10% of the time). Someone once posted that the Odo plunger may be the culprit and if I wiggle it it does make it work "better", as did thumping the top of the dash. Ive had the dash and cluster out many times, hit it with contact cleaner, lubed up the Odo gears, etc etc but nothing seems to fix it. Now after some anger management issues it no longer has a odo plunger to wiggle and gets stuck on, well, Zero about 90% of the time. I have bought a replacement cluster (top - sorry for blur) but many of the globes dont work, it doesnt have a Airbag wire like mine does, and it only shows half speed. It's an auto cluster (PRNDL) but was in a manual vehicle so Im assuming someone did a "jumper" switch to halve the speed shown. I havent been able to find the correct jumper to fix it, and Im not sure I want to due to the Airbag wire / globes issue. These are all things I didnt notice when mine was in the car and after reading many posts about how "there's no difference between clusters". I was always sceptical, in that I believed theer was the half / doubling issue, but wasnt aware of the Airbag wire difference. So, does anyone know how I can fix either, or get the speed right, and what the airbag wire does / if it is necessary / transferrable, and what else to look for? thanks

Found this Post after a search for Blue wire. My car is in bits trying to pull out my JVC and put in a Pioneer. (My First Install) JVC has 2 blue wires - One "Remote" that is Spliced into the old Loom, and One Power Antenna that seems to have a new wire going off under the dash:, Pioneer Has 1 for "Remote Control". Pic here I'm not sure what the blue wire does but I do Have an amp / sub, so I assume I use that connection for the Pioneer, and just leave the Antenna one off (meaning I have no auto antenna? want to make sure I know what Im doing (sort of) before I cut that JVC Connector off. cheers for any help PS - sorry if noob - but why doesn't the indicator work with the dash off / Edit: works when I put the hazard switch back in.

I have a massive crack... ... on my R33 S1.5 clear instrument cluster screen. So looking for a replacement screen off a non functioning cluster, or possibly a fully functioning auto cluster. Also have 2 questions. Is there any difference in Auto Turbo clusters from S1 ->1.5 -> 2? What are my straight swap aftermarket options (if any) Pls PM if you can help

oops WTB

Yeah I did. Just did it again (cap is only on with friction fit old silicon) , and hit up the PCBs and AFM element thingy with some contact cleaner. Noticed some discoloration that looks like minor corrosion, or solder resist, or something. I cant access a test AFM, but Im South of Adelaide if anyone has any names of places I could get one, or more advice. Dunno whether to mess with the Auxiliary Air Control or Throttle position sensor. Also turned the bleed valve down 2 more clicks whatever that equates to. photos below http://i127.photobuc...et/P1000682.jpg http://i127.photobuc...et/P1000681.jpg http://i127.photobuc...et/P1000683.jpg

Update - more stalling. In addition to the daily but intermittent cutouts - I have stalled during deceleration a few times (eg slowing for roundabouts / corners etc) half the time it restarts immediately, the other half it will not. If i let it sit for 2-5 minutes its starts again - and of course runs fine for the ensuing drive. In frustration I just revved the shit out of it on th elawn after it conked (and restarted immediately) on my driveway. 1st time - hit rev limiter, stalled 2nd time - car only went to 4k rpm (I had foot down) , lost power and stalled. couple of times i revved to 5 or 6 k and let foot off - stalled a few times - behaved normally - but on some of those I heard minor backfiring (popping) getting ready to service it with a jerry can and a cigarrete lighter. ...

Yeah Sarge I don't think the coilpacks are wet I was just looking for a way to describe the cutout. Will look at the AFM again over the weekend thanks Bitsu. Today - mechanic drove a bit no issues, I drove home 15kms (nice cool evening) no issues. 3 days to play and see if I can get stranded (I mean locate the problem) or at least a way to "make it occur", or gauge if it is getting worse, or something. Mechanic and a few other "Office mechanics" are saying "electrical". Should i be considering an auto electrician?

Thanks guys. I cant understand if it's boost related anymore though - you can see from the videos i am under stuff all load and essentially zero boost? Some of the posts / mechanics opinion is that Coil packs or CAS would be a lot more regular (less intermittent) too. But it feels so similar to wet coilpacks and as you say CAS controls so many things (so does ECU I guess...) I am also leaning towards heat as a contributer - it may be coincidence - and it does play up when cool (1/3rd temp) but It does seem to be worse at full op temp / hot day / A/C on. Also seems to behave better in the first few kms of driving - usually. My engine bay feels hotter too if that makes sense. I notice it because I have an unprotected pod so I notice it from a potential heat soak point of view. Basically I open my bonnet and think "shit that's hot - I should do something about an air box" - and lately I have been thinking shit thats really hot ... (but car is not overheating in any way) /e boost should be down to about 9pounds now - I gave it another click when I cleaned the AFM - but wasnt too fussed because I seem to be dying on zero boost..

Thanks BSA Kasko I believe Cas is the cam angle sensor http://www.skyline-o...le-sensors.html or http://en.wikipedia....position_sensor Post back here if you find out what fixes it. I hope my mechanic can work it out tomorrow. No car + long weekend = grrrr Heres my sad vids for your viewing pleasure / amusement / sympathy - sorry they are about 6-7MB each and renamed from mkv to mp4 so photobucket could see them. No, I am not pumping the accelerator (except when trying to stop it stalling after it finally starts. That is smooth and steady pressure. A few minutes before it stalled the 1st time http://s127.photobuc...BeforeStall.mp4 trying to restart it http://s127.photobuc...tafterstall.mp4 the worse cutouts yet - everything before this was just one or 2 then ok. http://s127.photobuc...dafterstall.mp4

Not sure about Auto - battery is only a couple of years old. Today it worsened (heat maybe?) to the point where once hot it seemed ok so I hit the A/c and still ok. Then, chug chug chug and ok again. Then chug chug chug and finally STALL. Couldnt restart for about 5 tries - then started very chuggily so I took off and it ran like utter shit. As if I was stomping the accelerator randomly (but I wasn't) I will try to post a video later fwiw. Made it home and cleaned the AFM. Let it sit a while but it was by no means cool. Drove another 3 kms and stalled slowing down for a roundabout. Now I could restart it but it would die immediately before even idling. Waited 5 minutes, started and made it another 5 kms to the mechanic pretty much without incident. Intermittent shit is the worse - I wish something would just explode so I knew what to replace...

Yeah this is pissing me off now. I just went for a drive and took my Digital camera to video it but its too dark and too intermittent. As soon as I took off It cut out 3 times - imagine just taking off "normally" and counting "One-and-two ..." It cut out 3 times on each "half count" then ran fine for the next 5 minutes (when the camera was rolling of course) Boost was interestingly at zero on stock gauge (not vacuum, not boost, but zero). /e Yeah thanks Sarge - will try that - the mechanic is pretty good about it so far hasnt charged me for return visits - then again probably should never have given it to me running 14psi...

Yeah this is a new mechanic with a Dyno and race / Falcon turbo experience got me stumped how he couldnt see this on the dyno. I dont know why but I coming back to thinking my coilpacks have been stuffed from 2 weeks ago and the 14psi R&R in the middle was just a red herring to annoy and confuse me. Is there anyway to test coilpacks before throwing $400 at a set of Yellow Jackets? I will clean my AFM tomorrow. Oh and for what its worth I have full fresh 98 RON fuel. linking myself to R&R Threads http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/328005-is-it-rr/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/292243-r33-gtst-problem-getting-a-constant-boost-level-causing-rr/ (post 15 interesting)