fusi0n

Hi All, Results and pics on: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=124180 Cheers, Vic.

Bump

Abit pricy.. Normally they are $600 with tyres.. What condition are the rims anyways?

Looking for a set of R34 GTT Rims with good tyres.. Anyone?

See attachment..

you have to lower the output.. 100% output means the soleniod is completely open.. sending all the air to the wastegate actuator (opening it).. lower all your 100% output pts to say 60% or 70%.. if boost doesn't rise.. lower it even more.. mine is set to around 28%.. which gives me 15psi.. but every car is different.. so just play around.. after playing around for about an hour I finally got a map which holds boost in every gear.. a nice 14.5-15psi in every gear.. the output duty range i'm using is quiet low (2%-28%).. according to the mag i should increase the vent size.. should this really matter tho? does it have any ill effects on the soleniod? one thing i did notice is that altho boost seems to hold very well in every gear.. if I rev thru the gears very fast.. and change from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th at close to red line.. i get a small spike from 2nd->3rd and 3rd to 4th.. 1st.. 14.5psi all the way to red line.. 2nd.. 14.5psi all the way to red line.. 2nd->3rd.. 16psi.. and settles on 15psi to red line.. 3rd->4th.. 16psi.. and settles on 15psi.. then i run out of road.. :headspin: any theories on this? or does you car do this? i will post up my map in a second..

Yeah that makes sense. I guess I just need to play around more.. Thanks for the info SK. Back on the road for me..

Thanks for your quick reply SK, I'm still a little confused about this.. If I set all the Output pts to 0. Regardless of throttle position, should I get the same boost (give/take a little) at Input pt 19 in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears? (On a flat road) If the answer is yes, then my car doesn't behave this way.. I get much higher boost at Input pt 19 in 4th gear compared to 3rd gear. About 15psi in 4th compared to 11psi in 3rd. Does Input pt 19 mean different load in different gears?

Hi again, While tuning my IEBC it doesn't seem to have the same boost curve in every gear.. In 3rd or below the curve is about the same.. but in 4th gear onwards it seems to overboost like mad.. The thing I noticed is that while in 2rd or 3rd.. with all Output pts set to 0 (soleniod closed).. boost gets to 15psi at an earlier Input pt than in 4th or 5th gear.. Should it behave this way? By the way I have a 1.15mm vent.. This shouldn't matter as the soleniod is completely closed.. Below is my boost map.. Does anyone have any ideas? Theories? 1 = 0 2 = 0 3 = 0 4 = 0 5 = 0 6 = 0 7 = 0 8 = 0 9 = 0 10 = 0 11 = 0 12 = 0 13 = 0 14 = 0 15 = 0 16 = 0 17 = 1 18 = 2 19 = 4 20 = 6 21 = 8 22 = 12 23 = 20 24 = 35 25 = 50 26 = 61 27 = 64 28 = 64 29 = 64 30 = 64 31 = 64 32 = 64 33 = 64 34 = 64 35 = 64 36 = 64 37 = 64 38 = 64 39 = 64 40 = 64 41 = 64 42 = 64 43 = 64 44 = 64 45 = 64 46 = 64 47 = 64 48 = 64 49 = 64 50 = 64 51 = 64 52 = 64 53 = 64 54 = 64 55 = 64 56 = 64 57 = 64 58 = 64 59 = 64 60 = 64 61 = 64 62 = 64 63 = 64 64 = 64 I haven't started to tune out the higher end of the Input pts yet..

yep S15 boost builds crazily fast.. u should see my boost gauge needle..

Woohoo! :headspin: it's working now as it should.. had my hoses connected incorrectly.. and yes my soleniod is the NC type.. not NO as I thought... Everything works now.. I have a 1.15mm vent and I think thats still a tad big.. maybe 1mm or 0.75mm would be better.. as boost is still rising at 100% soleniod duty.. but rising very slowly tho.. waiting for this wet weather to clear before testing properly.. Thanks to all u guys for u help.. esp SK and CC

I think I might the the hoses at the solenoid hooked up incorrectly.. I re-did them tonight and will test it out tomorrow..

I just tested this.. connected 12V to the soleniod and was able to blow thru it.. so the soleniod is open when power is applied.. this tells me that my soleniod is the NC type.. So any ideas as the why the IEBC is working in reverse?

I'll test this out tonight.. I'm surprised my self that it's behaving this way..

I noticed tonight when my car was idling.. the soleniod is quite noisey.. 0% injector duty.. so output is 0% to the soleniod.. since mine is the NO type.. keeping it closed.. this must put quite abit of strain on the soleniod? thing is before I installed the IEBC i never heard this noise.. is there someway I dodged up the connection to make the soleniod work in reverse?

My IEBC is now installed! I also realised that my factory solenoid (S15) is the normally-open type.. So according to the book I need to connect the 10watt resistor in series with the soleniod.. should I do this at the soleniod or at the ecu where i made the connection.. btw i had to cut the wire at the ecu.. (what happens if my soleniod doesn't get hot and i still install this.. will it matter?)

Woohoo!! it's working now.. ok.. the problem was right under my nose.. it was my cable! i had the wrong cable.. silly me grabbed a cable from work thinking it should work.. but never thought the cable could be causing all this!! Thanks all u guys for ur input!! Now I just have to install the bugger! :headspin:

thanks nps.. keep me posted! :headspin:

someonestolecc, how did u go with this?

Thanks for that SK.. My friend mentioned his cousin has one for his DFA.. but he won't be home until late tonight.. so I'll try and borrow that first but if not u'll be getting a pm from me.. Thanks for the offer..

Thanks for the info SK.. I just did some more testing.. and reliased that the resistor burns out only if the hand controller is plugged in when i switch on the power.. Maybe the hand controller is drawing too much voltage? I got a friend helping me with it at the moment.. he has some understanding in electronics.. But we are unable to figure out what is causing this so far.. But it may be the hand controller.. I was wondering if anyone in the Sydney area can lend me their *working* hand controller to test this?? I'm in the Fairfield area.. Thanks again SK.

someonestolecc, yeh my +/- is the right way around.. no problems there.. I'm going to JayCar tomorrow and get a few more resistors and re-solder.. I don't understand alot about electronics but maybe the burnt resistor was dodgy to begin with? Maybe someone with a bit more understanding can shed some light..

hahah Thanks resonance.. I just checked all the resistors and they have are all in the right spots.. I tested the burnt resistor and it has a slightly lower value than 10.. does this matter? I'm new to all this.. so how do I test if a transistor is busted? I checked all my solder joints and it doesn't seem like anything is touching.. I'll try and take a clearer picture tomorrow to show you. Thanks again..

ahhh i just fried something!! can someone help?? i just hooked up the IEBC to my car and when i turned the ignition on.. one of the resistors started smoking up!! at the same time LED1 and LED2 both came on.. i attached pics of my board.. i'm checked everything when i was soldering it.. and used a multimeter to test the resistor before putting it on.. if the pics are not clear, i can take some more.. thanks! btw SKid.. if u are not too busy can I bring my board to u to have a look at?

Thanks resonance. That is the last bit to solder for me! Cheers! Time to install this baby!! :headspin: