NiHaoMiaoMiao

Thanks for the advice @robbo_rb180. I ended up cutting the metal brackets for the engine mounts and dropped the motor 7.5mm cold side and 6.5mm hot side. The washers on the bolts restricted how much further down I could cut without fouling them when refitting. So far so good... just the TCS module on the throttle body touching the middle brace. I have two options here, 1. Cut out the fouling point of the brace. 2. Run a R33 throttle body. From reading some ancient posts on here, they are pretty much the same throttle body minus the TCS module. Of course I would be re-using the R34 TPS. Just wanted to see if anyone has had any issues with fitting a 33 throttle body on a 34 or just yolo and go agricultural on the bracing? Cheers, Daniel

Hey everyone, Just as an update for future reference, it will foul the stock bonnet, definitely touching the cam gear cover and possibly the front corner of the intake plenum. Will look into it more and update here. @robbo_rb180 Would I need to extend the steering column/intermediate shaft to be able to space that far down? and would there be drivability issues such as vibrations etc. from the change of geometry? @R32GTS-t RB25DET I have fathomed that option but $1500+ for a Greddy, then cutting holes into the body for the cooler piping gives me shudders lol. Also want to retain the low-end torque that the stock plenum provides. Would anyone have any experience of it fitting with just the resizing of the engine mount holes only and some trimming of the bonnet brace? specifically for an r34? Thanks in advance!

Maybe the heat wrap has caused the issue? Not a fan of them myself, traps the heat in...

running standard crank, forged internals (cp pistons, spool rods, acl bearings). 0.5mm bore and hone to suit pistons and the usual things to do while apart such as linish crank, grub screw crank etc. the stock rb30 bottom end will take a beating if its in decent condition. i just went with forged as i was already there and will go for bigger power later down the track.

Hey mate, not yet. Build had a few delays but should be together soon! Got the bottom end assembled. Will update here for future reference 👍 Cheers! Daniel

Thanks for the recommendation guys!

awesome! thanks for the clarification Rusty

Hey guys, Just wondering if there is any differences between the intake and exhaust valve spring washers? The ones that the spring rests on. I didn't have them taken prior to getting it cleaned so they came back all in a bag. Also, I thought I read or watched a video where it mattered which side of the washer was facing up... but I may be just imagining that. Cheers fellas, Daniel

You guys are legends! Thanks for the in-depth discussion and support. I had a chat to Trent/Cat and they do offered a really competitive price in terms of supply and tune. They do prefer Haltech as they believe Links are harder to tune. I've been watching a lot of videos on tuning lately, so learning lots as well. Picking up head today and start re-assembling, get clearances done on that, and hopefully bottom end mid next week. Keen as a bean if you can't tell ? Definitely will have lots of questions if I go down the tune it myself path. Cheers again fellas ?

Thanks guys, really appreciate the info and experience! I think I may be swayed to the Link G4X due to the features, I will definitely have a chat to Trent first before jumping the gun. Yep, I was planning to install it and get it drive able before it goes to get a tune. I initially wanted to tune it myself, but with no experience, I thought it best be taken to a professional.

Thanks Johnny, that's really good to know. I think you boys have definitely helped sway my decision. Definitely between the Link and Haltech at this stage. While I would love to think I'll be keeping my mods mild for the 25/30, the mod bug is already itching and engine is still getting final measurements done at the shop (rings gaps etc.) ? From your experience Johnny, do you have a preference between the two?

Thanks for info GTSBoy! It does look like I'll be ruling out the Nistune now.. Hopefully Trent will be back up and operating soon. Need to have a chat with him ASAP! Damn covid...

GTSBoy my saviour! haha Wow, no I didn't know about that. The lower cost enticement is diminishing if support is cr*p. As it currently stands, once the motor is done, it will be running a standard turbo for the time being. However, it will definitely be getting a decent power upgrade down the track, perhaps one of Hypergears AT45s, G35 or 3582r etc. so that rules out the Nistune I guess? Is there more details as to why the Neo ECU has issues with lots of power? I do like the Link, but it seems that I will need to fork out extra to delve down the path of MAP sensors where as the cool-aid ECU has inbuilt 1.5 bar...

Hey all, Have been trawling through various threads about ECUs and I will need to make a decision of what one to use quite soon. For initial break-in, I will be using my standard GTT ECU. The general consensus is Nistune is more than enough and if budget persists, a Haltech Platinum Pro or Link G4X. Engine will be a RB25/30 Neo. However, during my research I did come across the fairly new Adaptronic Modular ECUs which are also plug and play. https://adaptronic.com.au/collections/modular-plug-in-ecus/products/emod006-r34-skyline-gtt Has anyone had any experience with these, as looking at the specs, it's pretty feature packed for its price. I'm no ECU expert, but how would they compare to the Haltech and Link? My only hesitation with going Nistune is the thought that I may move away from MAF to MAP in the future... Tuner wise, I think I will go with Trent from Chequered Tuning as he is VERY reputable. Cheers! Daniel

Link for the kit? You will need to bore and hone the cylinders 0.5mm if they haven't been done before as the stock pistons are 86mm. While you have the whole thing apart, you might as well give it an acid bath, make it nice and clean and make sure you check the deck, machine if needed. Big list I could yap on about and it will start to add up fast. lol A stroker kit will come with the lot so not sure how much help I'd be without more info (the machine shop work is unavoidable whichever scenario you head in). First question would be, do you really need a rebuild? Low comp, damaged internals or just because? as RB's make plenty of power with a stock bottom end.

Yes, I did see your one Rusty and was my initial plan, however, when I was getting quotes done for the fittings and braided line from Enzed/Pirtek, they wanted something along the lines of $160... Love your setup though, so nice and clean! Mine will fit behind the backing plate of the cam cover, I'll dig out the photo...

Yes, that's great to hear she's running mint! Fingers crossed mine fits as I have a stock bonnet ?. I am also in the same boat in regards to the FFP, a lot of money for really not much gain performance wise (esp losing low down torque!) It is a shame about your external feed though, I resorted to using a kit I found from a NZ performance shop, which I'll link for you here. https://franklinperformance.nz/products/nissan-rb30det-vct-oil-feed-kit It cost me like $105 delivered and only took 3 -4 business days so worth a look. (it also comes with instructions) I'll post up how the bonnet clearance and VCT feed goes once I get the car up and running (hopefully in the next couple of weeks...) Also, thanks for the suggestion there with the turbo, they look very good value for money, as I also want to retain as much of a factory look as possible!

GTSBoy, yes that is a fair point too. I guess it is hard to verify on public forums lol. Too true Johnny, I did fathom the Nitto pump as they are amazing and have very good reputation but the $$$, and totally agree the poor man pays twice, ouch! Thanks for the advice and conversation gents! Now off to ponder the decision to make... Ah good old RB life.

hey guys, thanks for the advice! appreciate it Wow Johnny, those gears are completely cooked ? GTSBoy, yes that is true, my initial thoughts were to either put a new N1 pump or re-use the original housing if viable just not to double up on costs. My next question I guess would be, were those claims of "not good" ever really verified or just a he said/she said scenario?

Hey all, I am currently in the process of building an RB30DET Neo and was planning to re-use my oil pump as it is an N1 type... However, upon removal, the drive gear face looks like it's been slapping against the crank on the edge so looks like I'll need some billet gears. (previous owner must have like the limiter...) Housing does look ok, but there are 2 wear marks? that I can feel. Do yas reckon the housing is still usable? I am trying to avoid buying a new N1 type oil pump as I've read they are not of the same quality... Cheers! Daniel

Hey all, I have spent the last 2 days trawling the forums for information relating to bonnet clearances or mods required for clearance in a GTT. A lot of people had issues in R32's that required spacing the chassis and/or modifying the the bonnet brace. Has anyone had experience with a stock GTT bonnet? I watched and read John's RB25/30 build and he had to mod his bonnet but it was an aftermarket one. Any information would be a god send! Ps. I will be trying to retain the factory manifold for ultimate low end torque. I am also using a return flow cooler so no piping over the top of the radiator fan area. Cheers! Daniel

Wow, just thinking about the rb25 neo with the 30 block and come across your thread! great read and watch! might need to go ffp due to bonnet foul?

Legend! I can sleep tonight haha. Thank you very much! ? Cheers, Daniel

Thanks for that trel! Do you or any other forum members know if the info is applicable for the r34 neo motor? I have a hunch that it is, but can't seem to find much info backing it. Cheers, Daniel