Branelly

FINISH HIM!!! I mean it, finish it. The car that is.

Yeah gotta agree with that, as it is now the car starts pulling really hard at the 4500 mark right when boost hits 14-15 psi.

Heres my 30/25det with ATR4G3. Only revs to five grand as injectors ran out of flow and we were unable to get it to hold low boost to rev the thing out. I will reupload once its tuned with new injectors to find out what it can really do.

Jesus, hope theres some sort of build thread for this motor. Sounds like its going to be a monster.

I got the same light after i upped the boost to 10psi and hit r and r. Was all good after i had nistune installed.

THREE MOTORBIKES? Nice..

What sort of power were you making before? And what do you plan on making now?

Needs more low... Seriously looking good though, especially the custom exhaust.

At least 50% increase in sideways action!!!

I have one looks to be the same on a rb30det doesnt hit boost in first gear untill the 4500-5000 grand mark. Not really a good turbo choice for responsiveness on small capacity motors. But it is a good turbo for making large power if thats what your planning.

A Exedy cushion button should last for ages at those power levels as long as you dont slip the clutch to much or do lots of burnouts/ high revving launches. If you are planning on doing some launches i would suggest the same clutch but not cusioned. It can take huge amounts of abuse but is more of a track orientatated clutch because of the heavy peddle and quick take up. Of course if your budget is more then $500 theres definetley better clutches that are both stronger and easier to drive, have a more effortless peddle. Depends what you wanna spend or what power level you want in the future.

Timing belt lined up perfectly with cams and balancer all lining up in the correct positions. It seems the cas will still only fully go in in one position. And it wont start in any other position so its definitley alligned correctly. Im going to test to see if it is cas as soon as possible. But i dont think it would be just because it seems to be working as per normal, besides the fact that cylinder 1 wont fire. No, i will do that today but it seems to be ticking which indicates its working .

Wont have any problems removing it. I mean people run way bigger turbos with no heat shield.

Ok heres the back story, engine has been out of the car for a month. The car was running before that but it wasnt going anywhere because the clutch had gone. So basically hasnt ran much at all in 2 months. Was running perfect before. I have replaced all the fluids, brand new clutch, flywheel, metal intake pipe, spark plugs, oil filter, water pump, tensioner bearing, timing belt, etc. Now my first problem was the car was cranking but not firing, i fount out this was to do with the cas bracket breaking but now have a new one. Cas seems to be aligned properly, car starts but is very rough. So i managed to get a timing light on there and see that the timing lines do line up. 1. So eventually after messing around a bit we have worked out that cylinder 1( well the one closest to the front of the car) isnt firing. The weird thing is that the the spark plug and coil pack are working as we tryed them on different cylinders and they worked fine. Injector is ticking and i assume that means its working. I took the spark plug out to check for fuel straight after it had been running but it was dry, should it be wet? Not really sure how else to diagnose whats wrong with it. 2. Second problem is that when you rev the car in neutral it revs fine, the second you put the gear stick in gear even with the clutch still in and rev it there is a horrible sound coming from the engine. Easiest way to describe it would be almost like lifter noise or the engine sounds like a diesel truck. 3. Third thing isnt really a problem, im assuming its related to the engine not firing properly. The boost gauge seems to be reading about -10psi at idle and im pretty sure the car used to be at -20psi at idle. Could this suggest a boost or vacume leak? 4. My ecu is an z32 computer with nistune, so im assuming that it cant be used to check error codes. Would i be right in assuming this?

Broken in what way? Visually it looks fine all the teeth are good, spins fine etc. Rotating it on the car does affect timing but is it possibe that its getting the wrong reading some how?

Whoops yeah i knew it was cas, just for some reason had vct stuck in my head. Anyway as it says in that first topic if the cas is one tooth out it wont fire. My car is definitley firing so it must be in the right tooth. Now i just have to adjust it untill it runs right. Now i have another question but it might not be related. My boost gauge is reading about -5 to 0 psi on idle. Its varying so much because of the idle being spaz which i think is the blow off valve not haveing the return pipe on it right now. If i remember correctly the boost should read about -20 on idle. Could this be timing related or is it more likely to be vacume leak or boost leak. Ive already tried pulling the vacume line off the blow off valve so it doesnt open but it doesnt seem to to make a difference to the idle. The hole in the intake for the blow off valve return is also blocked. I spose it could be related to the timing but its hard to tell at this point.

Ok so after screwing around trying to get the engine started for hours we eventually decided to check the timing belt. And as soon as we took off the cam gear cover we saw the problem. The bracket that holds the VCT unit had snapped clean off. Would not have a clue how this happened. So anyway my friend had a spare bracket that we bolted up but now we have another problem. In side the cam gear there is a semi circle that is meant to line up with the semi circle in the vct unit. But the one in the cam gear has broken off. Meaning that the vct unit can go into the gear in any number of degrees. The problem being that we cant align it. Good thing is we have managed to start the car but it doesnt sound right at all. Under acceleration it sounds like a diesel truck. Any ideas, im guessing the only way to get it right is trial and error trying to align the vct unit or buying a new cam gear that still has the semi circle intact.

Looks amazing , i think the rear end and especially the profile shots are the highlight of the whole car.

The burnout sounds amazing. Awesome, just awesome.

Woah, how are you hitting 59-61 kph at 5300rpm and im only able to hit 50 kph by 7000rmp? Didnt think series 1 and 2 were that different lol.

Yeah I realise there rare(didnt know there was only 200 though) just cant believe how well its held its price. Also was the engine restored along with the rest of the car?

Looks nice but isnt the price a little steep? My friend picked up a 2 door in good nick for about 6 g and that had a rb20det in it as well.

So the other week i stupidly let one of my friends drive my car. Hes revved it a bit (alot) to high and i could notice he was slipping the clutch abit. Anyway around the next corner hes pulled over and said that none of the gears are going anywhere. So i hop in and put it in 1st, let the clutch out nothing, 2nd nothing. Sure enough no gear grabs at all. I keep trying and then notice that in first gear the car will roll at about 10kph but revving it just revs the engine with no forward movement. So after spending the last hour reading various pages on this forum im getting very worried about it being the gearbox. Instinct is telling me its the clutch slipping. But the fact that it suddenly wont grab at all, and hasnt slowly deteriorated has me worried its not. So is it the clutch or worse... the gearbox? What do you gus think?

Gottta say just get the stock turbo maxed out first. 190rwkws is alot funner to drive around then 160. Will spin the wheels easily in first on stock wheels. And second if your not pointing the steering wheel anything but directly straight. Only need: FMIC Full exhaust Boost controller Fuel pump (not needed but is highly recomended) Aftermarket Ecu (probably, some people can get away without it at this power level, some cant.) Tune + dyno = 190-200 rwkws From there its only a couple more mods to your desired power level.

Finished installing them yesterday, took a couple of hours just cruising through it. Really easy job for a beginner wanting to start doing his own upgrades. As far as heights go only had to raise the back 25mm, just like you said. But it scrapes when going fast with mid corner bumps. Have left the front the same height they come with no problems. Set the damper to 18 front and rear, seems stiff enough and bearable ride quality for normal street use. The only thing im wondering now is what i should set the camber too? And weather or not i need adjustable camber arms to reach that amount of camber.