Branelly

Must say that is quite a nice looking car, really like it. Except the wheels just a little too bling for my taste.

I posted the same question a month or so ago. Same answer, but for some weird reason the sound has pretty much stopped. Only happens 1 out of 100 drives and only usually if the car is cold. When i posted originally it was doing it all the time, every drive. So i have no clue how i fixed it.

Lower, paint flaps and then finish with the new wheels. Should look great. I have to say this is probably my favorite project on the site and i cant wait to see how much power it puts out. My only worry being the handling, since my dad owned a 2003 (i think) x-trail, and haven driven it a fair bit, it really cant go around corners. To high and to much roll.

As the title suggests there's a fast ticking noise coming from the plenum area, not really sure its a problem. Was more just wondering what it was. Second question is about my Boost tee manual boost controller. Right now i have it completely wound back, so it should technically be on the lowest boost possible. But as i have noticed in first, second gear its at about 10psi, then in 3rd it will be at about 7 psi. So the question is- Is it ment to be at 7 psi or 10 psi. I assume that if its 7 psi, the internal gate isnt letting enough pressure out. Where as if its ment to be 10 psi, the turbo isnt generating enough boost in 3rd to get to that. Im sorta just gonna assume that the boost tee is crap and that im gonna need to buy a different one... Thanks.

I did my front pipe and high flow cat a few weeks back as well. Its really hard to tell if it had any effect at all performance wise. I think it did give a lil power mid to high range, but like you said dont know if thats just the plecebo effect. Anyway go for a manual boost controller next, easy to install your self and will be the best bang for your buck.

From the nistune weby: AUSTRALIA - SA BoostWorx 57 Boothby, Panorama, SA Contact Shaun on (08) 8299 0621 Shaun has tuned many Nissans using NIStune. He's somewhat of a Skyline man, but also works on CA's, SR's etc. bstworx [at] bigpond.net.au Classic Performance Dyno Centre 33 Chapman Rd, Hackham Contact Ashley on (08) 8384 2899 / 0409 743 219 ashley [at] classicperformance.com.au www.classicperformance.com.au Ultimately knowledgeable on Nissan ECU tuning. Very thorough too - you certainly won't end up with a "half tuned" engine if you go to Ashley. He likes 'em all - CA, RB, SR, VG and even does the VH45. Horse Power In A Box Unit 6/25 Roxburgh Ave, Lonsdale Contact Morrie on (08) 8463 0913 info [at] horsepowerinabox.com http://www.horsepowerinabox.com Morpowa Auto and Dyno Centre 14 Famechon Crescent, Modbury North, SA Contact Simon on (08) 8264 2077 simon [at] morpowa.com.au These guys have a wealth of tuning experience and first class facilities. Peter from PLMS does most of his tuning using their dyno. Turbo Tune 959 South Road, Melrose Park, SA Contact Michael on (08) 8297 1030

Mine makes the whistling noise as well. I haven't started looking for leaks yet, will soon because the noise is getting really annoying. Whats weird about your noise is that you only get it sometimes...

Ive been getting a whistle anytime on boost. Started happening after i installed my fmic. So im assuming that there is a leak somewhere, but so hard to pinpoint.

I drilled a hole in the side of the fmic piping, and then tapped a hole for the nipple to screw into. Works fine for me. @mad082, you mentioned that its preferable to screw it into the pipe between the turbo and the intercooler. I did it in the pipe from the fmic to the engine. What exactly are the downsides to how i did it? I only picked where i did because i figured it would be a more accurate gauge of the pressure going into the engine.

At just jap you can pick up a joint dump/front pipe for real cheap. Depends though if you want to buy really big brand name stuff or dont mind some cheaper(but still alright quality) things.

Since were on the topic what about highflows, how about in Adelaide? Anyone do it, and have an alright reputation?

Ahhhh, k i see now. All makes sense. Metric... and the second line is the boost...

Shouldn't you be getting around 200kw's for a stock gtr? I would have thought that 243 hp is a bit low. Especially since its running 16psi (to my understanding). Also ive seen alot worse power curves then that one.

@ Geraus, is this the one you bought? http://www.performance-wise.net/page54.htm (at the top), looks alright, wouldn't mind a bit more chrome in my engine bay to go along with my fmic.

I know you didnt mention an aftermarket bov, but i know they can cause retarded idling issues.

Hey, was wondering if someone could explain what this mod is actually doing? I can see that you need to make the pipe between the afm and the turbo a bit longer, but what exactly does this achieve?

A few of you mention staying away from jjr split front pipes, what exactly is the problem with them?

@ sparky206, i sought of have the same problem, power below 5000 feels pretty dull. Im thinking my problem is that my car probably needs a tune. Because Ive added fmic, boost controller running at 10 psi, and turbo back exhaust. Somewhere along the line of installing that stuff acceleration below 5000 is sought of slower then it should be. Also, its most noticeable in 3rd/4th/5th.

From the greddy website: "GReddy also offers the R-Type BOV, which should only be used for high-output race engines in excess of 500hp." Does this mean that it wont function as intended below 500hp?

Thanks all, exactly what i wanted to hear. @ R31Nismoid, sorry noticed straight after i posted that they are a sponsor. And yes i do search but sometimes its quicker to ask then too spend hours shuffling through random pages looking for an answer.

Have been looking on just jap and am planning on buying this: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=276&page=2 Dont know too much about the different brands/which ones to avoid / etc so hope fully you can help us out with that Also Planning on getting this cat: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1 On another note, whats the difference bewtween these two products performance wise? Is one better flowing then the other? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1 or http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=339&page=1 Thanks for any general feed back, will be apreciated.

Thanks guys, will definitley have to get a clutch kit to justify the labour like you said. Just on a side note, how long will the thrust bearing last before any serious damage is done?

Just got the car a couple of weeks ago. At first it only seemed to make the sound when the car was cold, and as soon as i had reversed out the driveway it stopped. Now it seems to be making the sound whenever i push the clutch in and are changing between 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. Weirdest thing is that it doesn't make the sound all the time just sometimes. Theirs also a burning smell if you jump out the car after driving. As for describing the sound its like a dull squealing, not particularly loud or anything. Also sound stops when you engage a gear. Anyway if you guys have any ideas at all or could just confirm that's it going to be something that's not too expensive to fix that would be awesome.

Spotted silver 33 in the coles carpark at victor, had a sau sticker on the back side window so thought it was worth posting.