ZimNismoBoy

Hi all let me introduce myself my name is Adam i live in africa. I am a hardcore Die hard nissan fan and unfortunately i have been bitten by a bout of bad luck. Here is my story i got my car a few years ago and she ran beautifully until that unlucky day i did a bearing in. Then sent the car off to a well known engine builder who moved from Zimbabwe to South africa and he did the job for me. He fitted Arp rod bolts and redid the crank and conrods new head gasket and used the old rings ????? Any ways he then proceeded to fit a New Exedy clutch cover 1400kgs clamping load and a three paddle copper clutch. So this build wasnt great i had heavy breathing and the rings didnt bed in.... The engine lasted 3500kms and then shortly afterward a rod bolt snapped and the head came off clean i can post links if any one wants to see. Apparently i think he ground the bolts because they were too long on the threaded section . The bolts were for a VG30TT 300zx twin turbo. Any ways after much arguing and all the rest i ordered a new engine from japan Nur spec and had it delivered to me. I got a Ati damper pulley. and i also got the flywheel balanced ,....... Dual mass flywheel hmmmmmm . Any ways assembled everything drove the car for 1200kms and the engine fried the bottom end. So the thrust bearing was damaged badly. And the car had such a huge vibration when acceleratiing hard .. So the clutch plate was out of balance now after these idiots balanced cause you cannot balance a dual mass flywheel. The three paddle clutch cannot be used on a 34 cause it was never made for that car. the clutch cover was too high on the clamping load and it stuffed the engine up. So i am stuck once again. I have a good block a damaged head and damaged crank. I need to know a few things 1 how do you setup a hydraulic clutch on a Gtr34 so that the engage and disengage point is correct 2 where can i get a second hand Nur spec engine from or where can i get a second hand Bnr34 engine from japan from ???? 3 where can i get some decent turbos from garret N1 turbos from my car that i originally had or where can i get some garrett gt2871r's from -10. How can i stop this engine breaking thing from happening. Should i rebuild the old engine i mean i know very little about rebuilding engines but i can do it i think if i put my head to it. I have been qouted like 11 000usd for a nur spec sub assembly long block that includes head but this time it wont be a repaired engine from nissan it will be brand new cause apparently i got a engine that was a repaired engine from japan. what a stress i have spent over 15 000usd on my car already and i have gotten no where. I dont have a oil cooler so that couldnt have caused all these engine failures . I have lubed up everything and built up oil pressure on this new motor before starting it and taken out plugs . im just tired of fixing fixing and spending lots all the time and as you can imagine my wife is starting to get flat with my . What suggestions do you guys have and what should i do??? Would appreciate your comments and advice . Kind regards adam

Thanks for your response. I tried that and also tried to bleed the system again. But now she clicks and the motor engages for a fraction of a second and then switches off again. Not sure whats going on with the attesa system i wish some one could help me on here any gurus out there?

Any one out there willing to lend a link or some notes on the reasons for this and how to resolve the Relay clicking. Any other methods of bleeding?

Lol smurfs blood. I have been wondering about this bleeding thing as well. Its a procedure and a half, but for the life of me i have been trying and trying to get my relay in the rear trunk to stop clicking, how can i bleed this system properly ? Made a call to Abbey motorsport in uk and mark mentioned that if i loosen the hose that connects to the clutch pack pressure system then i can bleed it and then re fit the hose and bleed a little more and it should be fine. Hmmmm makes me wonder how cause ive been trying 3 times already and cant seem to get rid of this clicking in the boot. Hope to hear from you guys thanks .

Hi there Fellow skyline owners, after much aftermath and problems my car is finally on the road. Short story had engine rebuilt and Arp rod bolt broke conrod through the block. Ordered a new Nur Long block assembly, 1 and half years later car back on the road. Now little problems here and there but i have this one irritating problem. I have bled the system twice but maybe not enough. So the car starts i hear the fuel pump but dont hear the attessa pump and after the second bleed i heard the pump for a few seconds, but then it switched off the relay carried on clicking every 20secs. No 4wd and A-lsd lights on the dash board. and now the relay keeps clicking everytime i start and run the car. What could the problem be . Should i bleed a Krap load of Fluid through the system. then try again. I notice on the bleed article that there should be a gap between bottom fluid and top fluid of no less then 5mm Why are there two seperate portions of the fluid container in the boot? how does this system work exactly cause im lost can any one help me out ? Please im lost ????????????????????????

Hi there im from zimbabwe I have a R34 Gtr that was sitting for about two years and it seems to be giving me the same problem. The relay in the boot keeps ticking every 10 or 20 secs. I dont know what to do to resolve it tried bleeding the system no joy. Still clicks and the pump wont engage? please email me [email protected]