awsam

Nintendo Gamecube, 2 controllers, 1 Mem card. Games Resident Evil 0, Resident Evil 1, Resident Evil 4 LMTD EDT, Mario Kart Double Dasht, Final Fantasty: Crystal Chronicles, Extreme-G, Spiderman, Star Wars, Sonic Adventure 2, Bloody Roar. $100 ono Adelaide. Email sachiel90@hotmail.com or call/sms 0421 460 040

Perfect condition, bought 2 a year ago. One for the computer and one for the TV, have a new TV and don't need these anymore. Speakers sound perfect, sub is still as clear as it ever was. Clean, no scratches or marks. $50, won't post. Adelaide only. Email me sachiel90@hotmail.com or sms/call 0421 460 040

How much does one of them go for? Is it a big job replacing?? Are you going by the video I posted? Because that turned out to be blocked Lifters Your description sounds about right though ^_^

Now that it's cooled down in Adelaide a bit I'm finding that the Hicas & Power steering thing isn't happening at all unless I've driven my car for quite a while. So seems heat related. A search in google found me 3 solutions other people have had. One person replaced the speed sensor, another replaced a specific capacitor in the hicas unit or something that was leaking black stuff on the circuit board, another simply unplugged his battery to reset the computer. I haven't tried any yet since it cooled down. Seems like a common problem with R33's after searching it, I'm surprised there aren't more detailed solutions especially on here.

Yah oil pressure gage is usually above the half way mark, bounces around slightly depending on temp and how spirited I'm driving lol But generally stays above half way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWP4FryCqsw Hopefully this link will work, this is a video of how the engine was before it got fixed. Mechanic said a mixture of bad spark plugs and blocked Lifters. Couldnt get the diagnostic to start today

The sickly noise sounded like a really loud tractor, noise started one day very quiet then 2 days later it was real loud and like a said a tractor. Also started nearly stalling. Replaced plugs and flushed oil and its almost completely gone. Mechanic said Lifters were blocked a little. Will try and do a hicas diagnostic today. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the power steering (although I dont think he looked to closely) The power steering is starting to cut out more frequently now. Last week it was only after a 45 min plus drive. Now after like 15 min if I stop and turn the engine off, then turn back on HICAS light on and no power steer.. Have a slight rubbing noise from the belts atm, just had a new timing belt put in so I'm not sure if its that or not.

That was my first thought but fluid level was right where it needed to be. Yah engine oil is still at a good level and a good colour. What was your spun bearing in?

This last week my R33 S1 has been losing power steering, only after a reasonably long trip though. Say about 45min to an hour of driving. When i stop the car and then start it again minutes later the Hicas light is on and I have no power steering. Anyone local have any experience with this issue? Also this week there's been a sickly tapping or knocking noise comming from under the bonnet somewhere. Sound gets faster when I rev the car. Just mentioning it in case the two are related

Im having this exact same problem atm, its happening more and more frequently and Im now getting a louder and louder tapping or knocking noise from somewhere under the bonnet which sounds real sick. Mechanic I went to see said possibly power steering motor on the way out?? I a new one expensive??

Happen to have rear pods? S2 front grill? Din pocket? Will be in Melb from wed to fri.

wtb R33 S1 Indicator stalk as mine is doing that clicking and smoking thing at the moment. Don't have a fog light switch atm but a stalk with one on it would be orsum as i plan to hook them up. Also after someone with the knowledge to show me how to replace in person lol!!! There'l be a 6pack of whatever you drink in it for ya <3

A nicer pic of my 33

Boss kit hicas compatible?

Check your Pm's man, been waiting a while for replies

Done...

@ Nicer4wks: Yeh I'll be doing that tomorrow. Asked around to buy a new shelf, cheapest was $50 which I'm sure is a awesome price But a bit more than I wanted to spend this week as I'm yet to buy/make 6.5" spacers for my doors. Hoping that won't be to much trouble as I'm told i'll have to make the door trim holes bigger also ... eek! I bought oval 6x9 spacers for the back like these ones for $18 from Repco http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FIBREGLASS-SPEAKER-...=item2ea901885e Hopefully they'l fit under the window alright. Don't have access to a soldering iron so.. *shrugs lol! Wires have terminals, probably just use the crimper on them a bit more onces connected. @Shiraz: Wow, how unlucky am I lol! Spose i'll just go cheap Pioneer next time hey? Like i said before though, the grill design and bright green colour (my fav ^_^ ) sold me pretty quik haha! I did find a 400w 12" fusion sub brand new for $40 though...

I'm looking at buying a boss kit for my R33 S1 and I've noticed on a couple on ebay that they say "non hicas" What exactly does this mean? Is there anything else I need to know about the process on a S1? I have found a guide on here relating to a S2 with airbag but nothing specific to my stock steering wheel. Are there any specific tools I will need to buy?

@Nicr4wks: The person who put the head unit in knows Holdens, and was very confident about putting mine in. It was apparant when she blew my tail/dash & interior light fuse that she was full of shit lol. I'm not to annoyed that the Dominators melted, 6+ hours in 44 degree temps, I'm not really surprised. But the Fusion plastics melted on a 30 degree day. Until I can afford window tint I've just got a window reflector for now, pain in the ass getting it in the back but eh Screws come loose when the plastic warped. They weren't in tight though as I broke the shelf pulling it out, so the screws were only into the carpet lining heh. WTB in tact rear shelf in Adelaide Haven't had time to notice any vibration as the terminals on one of the fusions was touching the body of the car and every bump in the road would create a static noise and the CD player would cut out. Coated the connecting parts in electrical tape for today and that's solved the problem. Will pull the seats out and re-sit everything in a couple of days. @Shiraz200SX: I have to say though, for $30 the Dominators had some fkin orsum bass, and loved the bright green cones. @Bundybear: I honestly thought Fusion was an allright brand? *shrugs. Guess the cyber-goth in me was just SOLD by the Biohazard & Radioactive grills haha!.... which melted :'(

Hey-ho Luke thanx a lot man, i already got them done at Midas. Was pretty urgent and Midas pt adelaide was seriously a 1 minute drive from my house ^_^ $139 wasn't to bad for rear brakes I don't think Rotor didn't need machining so I was a happy chappy cuz I had my $20 left for dinner that night LOL! New problem, damaged my rear shelf putting it back in with speakers so one speaker sags, its terminals touch the body of the car which seems to be causing static and makes the cd player cut out lol.. wtb in tact rear shelf in SA ^_^

Yeh? I wasn't sure if they'd just fill in the grooves or get ripped to shreds by them

I wouldn't know how to, and if I did I wouldn't be able to drive to GSL Midas pt adelaide is 30 seconds from my house so I think even if they were charging a shit load more I would still have to go there to minimize more damage Im about done with my Skyline, second set of speakers melted today on a 30 degree day.. Nothing is simple with this skyline, nothing at all...

2 weeks ago i put a pair of crappy 6x9 Dominators in my car, they sounded allright. Next day was 44degrees and they melted in the sun. AUtobarn refuse to replace them so I bought a pair of Fusion reactors 6x9s and put them in with a lot of trouble last night. Today was like 34degrees and I've come out to check them and found the plastic grills have warped and melted. I think the only reason the speaker itself didn't melt was the grill offered some protection. But! Someone said to me a week ago that earthing directly to the battery can do the same thing? How is this done? Apparantly my CD player is not wired up properly, the person who did it is not sure which wire was earth but it all seems working. Previous speakers were paper cones lol.. so not much of a problem. Would this be causing the spacers/grill housing to melt aswell? I can't keep pulling my back seat out to replace the f**kin things. This car has me exhausted, so many simple things are just turning into week long head f**ks and its costing money I dont have and is just sucking at my life. Sounds dramatic but it's true. I want to set it on fire so bad..

Tight on money atm so just getting the rears done, Midas quoted me $160 for pads and $100per rotor to machine it, so will just have to get the one done if its bad enough.

Hey guys, about a week ago I noticed a slight grind from the rear passenger brake when slowing down slowly, gradually over a few days this got worse and more frequent, i also noticed a slight squeek from that same wheel while driving. I had just put 17"s on and thought it might have something to do with that. But then yesterday the grinding all of a sudden was much worse, louder, longer and more frequent. Then today it's incredibly loud and happens when ever I brake. Had a look at the brakes and rotors, rotor has a lot of fresh scrapes that feel rough when i run my fingers over them. Now I don't know much about cars, less about brakes. But it looks like the rear passenger has no brake pad where as the rear driver appears to have a 2-3mm. Needless to say I'm not driving it at all atm, but today I'll ring around to get it fixed. Can anyone tell me how big of a job this is likely to be? Ball park costs? Anything else it might be? Suggestions of a good place to get it fixed in Adelaide? Thanx guys ^_^ >>Sam