awsam

My idle once warmed up actually sits around the 550 mark, and sometimes while stopped at the lights will drop to 300 and vibrate for a few seconds. All of my other problems though are during normal driving, under 3000rpm. If I slam it to 4,500-5000 that usually clears up the bucking problem, but not the hesitation from stop start.

Just got a call from Infiniti, Nissan japan are closed for winter until this coming monday, they expect information mid-late next week. I was told they're confident as they're new in Australia they want to help as much as possible to get the Infiniti name in peoples good books. He also said if they're able to get it, they will simply put it on flash drive and send it to Main north Nissan SA I asked about simply buying a new updated ECU and I was told that all ECU's sent from Japan are blank.

Yeh I did in Sydney and drove it back to Adelaide. Is that something I can actually do? Like by law? I've been meaning to look into how strict lemon laws are. Does it really matter that I've had the car since March?

None yet, still waiting for a response from Infiniti Melb to see if they can get the update. If not then i'll just have to trade it at a car yard, because there's no hiding the fault so no one would buy it privately

I've been interested in this as well, although I want to be able to hear it all the time, but don't need something stupidly loud. A couple of fat tips?

Everyone wants this done, but even half the price it's damn expensive.

Even if its temporary, like buys me a week free. So I can get this lemon into a car yard

Is it possible to remove the vtc solenoid? apparently that get's pretty filthy and causes this issue as well

I found a very detailed thread on the 350z exhibiting the exact same issue. Which they confirm is VTC http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/307878-sputtering-during-warm-up-38.html

I've found my symptoms reduced (time & severity) by using the 'snow' button.

I haven't heard any unusual noise, next time it happens I will unplug only one of the sensors and see if that isolates it further. Nah no clue, what ever oil Wilall Racing use when servicing. But it was doing it well before they serviced it. I'll have to call them this week and ask about the re-tune, I dare say they'll be very reluctant. Does anyone know if the ECU needs to be in the car for an upgrade? or can it just be plugged into a power course and flashed? I say this as it may be less trouble to fly to Melb cheap with my ecu and visit Infiniti.

Had mine in Nissan today, I gave them a small list of things to check but after they read this thread they decided not to bother further diagnostics. They think it is a timing issue, or the firmware. One of the staff there has imported the same v36 (still on the boat) and is attempting to get the firmware file from Japan. I think perhaps the only way I'm going to get this update is to buy a ECU which has already been flashed. A importer I spoke to yesterday says they have 3x 2008 Sedans comming in 2 weeks and they'd be happy to swap the ecu over for a test. No clue how to check current version though?? On another note, I turned the car off and unplugged those magnetic retarder sensors once the problem popped up. The problem immediately went away and my car drove perfectly for the 30 or so meters. I turned it off again, then plugged the sensors back in and the problem was there straight away. Nissan tell me these sensors only control the advanced position timing (name?) not the crucial timing. It sounded like a feature the car could live without, but Nissan would not answer the question "Can I drive forever without it?"

Better check the 5yr warranty ...

I did read on gdriver that the timing cover or something there abouts was a major problem in both 35's and 37's. How long did you test drive with them unplugged for? Is there great risk in damage from the timing being out? Was this specifically for the single hicup from stopped start, or did you find it stopped the 50-70rpm drop?

Yeh I know the normal boost you get re applying acceleration, times that by 5 but only during the 10 minutes of stutter.

My OEM filters are only a few weeks old. I had the af sensors checked/cleaned with no change. Your problem sounds a little different to the one I'm describing. Cold the car is fine, hot the car is mostly fine (single stutter on take off). the 10 or so minutes inbetween though repeated single stutter every 0.5sec of 50-70rpm that gets progressively larger. Also taking your foot off the peddle, then re applying creates unexpected jolt of energy during stuttering.

I questioned Nissan about cam sens like in that link and they assured me it was not the issue. If I could get them for only $50 like they said in the link then i'd just swap them np, alas it's not that cheap.

Ignore those then.. I haven't checked/tried, I'm unsure of what km's my car has legitimately done. I've been meaning to get it back to nissan, that's probably a job for them.

http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-engine-exhaust-drivetrain-fi/356081-mod-make-your-x-100-rwd-no-joke.html

I have read on G35 driver that someone pulled their AWD fuse and it solved the problem, but left the car in RWD. Is that relevant to us? http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-engine-exhaust-drivetrain-fi/416579-low-rpm-trans-slipping.html Comment #15

My car did this in the beginning, after a few weeks it began doing it at all RPM. Since having one o2 sensor replaced I've found the problem to be much more inconsistent. When taking the little one to school it would always start stuttering at the same stretch of road (roughly 2-3 minutes of driving) now it may do it lightly, or it may do it really bad, some days it now takes up to 15 minutes for the stutter to happen. Accelerating very hard through it a few times, or taking off from lights very very very slowly makes it go away faster than driving normally. I'm not sure if changing the second o2 sensor would completely eliminante the problem, i've been meaning to get the car back in but haven't had time.

They're saying replacing B2 o2 will likely solve the problem now. They suggest disconnecting B2 o2 setting it into "Open loop" briefly and seeing if the problem still occurs.

Yeh everything I've read says Crank also, but I was having no engine light or error codes. Plus the initial graph showed front B1 o2 was all over the shop. Probably a combination of the two. They're saying the front two are cycling correctly, but rear two are no longer according to the scan tool graph. Which is why they think either sensor failure or cat problem. But honestly they need to do a little bit of actual problem sourcing and physically check these parts instead of plugging the scanner in and then going "Graph says this so that's prob what it is" Any idiot can do that... I'll have to find someone to do that for me as I don't have anything more than a single jack. Or i'll tell Nissan to do it when they take another look monday.

Car is not fixed at all. Main North Nissan will be getting a very early visit.

Thanks for the tip mate i'll check that stuff out tomorrow morning, I was so pissed at myself. Pitty some damage is already done from rubbing it off.